I found some Doug fir shafts, and I was going to finish them, so I bought some Min Wax stain, oil based. I used a dark coat, because I was in a hurry and only wanted to give them one coat, and that didn't look bad.

Then I just drilled some holes in a piece of stove wood and stuck about an inch in there to stand them up, and sprayed them with a Min Wax Luquire clear coat. I coated them twice and they look terrible, sort of. I figured by the second coat they would be glossing over. I am using a semi-gloss. Well part of the arrows don't look too bad, but some parts of the arrows just keep soaking it up and look almost like I never even sprayed them with the sealer.

I was going to get acrylic sealer, after watching Robert Carter on youtube. But the people at Lowes, said they didn't even have any acrylic in a spray can. They weren't much help, and they didn't know any more than I did, maybe less.

Advice please?

At least I am going to put a white wrap on the back for about 8", and on the end, I will be painting the point end of the arrow white for about 10" but that still leaves 12-13" in the middle, that could use a little better sealant.

Could I get some clear Polyurethane and spray over the Luquire finish.

I am not really worried about looks, just trying for a decent arrow. And I don't have a dip tube or anything like that.

What combinations of stain and sealer works well on arrows and something that you could glue feathers to without issue, in case I didn't use a wrap on the arrow in the future?

I am just trying to put together a few more arrows for the coming 3D shoot, this Saturday.

I think the stain I bought is not compatible with the Luquire clear finish, even though they are both Mim Wax brand, but I don't know, as I am not very up to speed on paints and clear coats.

First thing is throw away the spray can and get some liquid that you can apply with a foam brush or a rag and wipe it on.

My guess is you are just missing parts of the shaft when you arecspraying.

Is that “lacquer”, or are you referring to some brand-name I’ve never heard of?

I have not finished very many arrows, but what I can safely suggest is that you first make sure that the glue you’re fletching with is compatible with whatever finish you have in mind… Doesn’t matter how good it looks if the feathers won’t stick. But for what it’s worth, Minwax wipe-on Poly has been very easy for me to use, and things to come out looking remarkably good (for a rookie).

Aesthetically, I’m not 100% sure how I feel about putting wraps on a wood arrow, but from a practical standpoint, it does make a lot of sense.

Polyacrylic rubbed on will seal the shaft. Goes on cloudy white, dries clear.

I went back out in my shop and run some steel wool over them and they didn't look half bad. Then I sprayed another coat. I think part of the wood on the arrows does soak up a lot more than other parts of the wood. So it turns cloudy white like you said. But when I steel wooled it, it cleared up. Maybe I just need another coat or two.

So, is Polyacrylic the best sealer for arrows? What about Polyurethane? I take it that this Luquire is probably not the best choice? I know I have read about some finished not friendly for gluing feathers on, but I don't know what to stay away from.

Finishes can be confusing. I had to take a semester in JC to learn about them and I still have to research them before use. I remember stain not liking those dark spots on some of the shafts I used. Oil in the shaft. One of my favorites is regular old Polyurethane not water based. I use to mix it with mineral spirits to thin it for dipping. Ducco cement works very well for fletching.

I've been finish dipping arrows in Polyacrylic ever since I started putting my own arrows together. No problem with glue compatibility and I use three or four coats. Have found arrows after more than a year on the ground that were still straight. Feathers gone and point rusted, but still straight.

I do not think anything lacquer based goes over oil finishes. I could be wrong.

I have used 4-5 coats or Wipe-on Poly for years. Works great. I stopped staining Doug Fir because it seems to raise the grain, unlike Cedar.

Did you wipe the stain down? Just putting it on heavy to be darker won't work. Wipe it like you are trying to wipe it off. Give it at least a few hours to dry off. Rust-Oleum has a clear enamel that works well, very durable.

NEVER put lacquer over oil or water-based product, it only works the other way around.

A simple, but not foolproof, method for determining compatibility. The stink method. Less stink can go over more stink. Not the other way around.

Generally the more stink, the more VOC's. It's the off gassing of the VOC's that creates the issue.

I had the same problem with some dougfir shafts I put together some years ago. It was frustrating trying to get a nice even finish. I was using the minwax, stain and sealer I had left over from some indoor trim I replaced. I thought maybe the minwax was old. I never figured it out. I just lightly sanded it, and put wipe-on poly on them. Been using out door wipe-on poly since. Multiple thin coats work well, and lasts.

Lacquer is only compatible with lacquer. you can put any other products on top of lacquer, but lacquer on top of any other products will orange peal. When I was in the arrow business I used lacquer for the crown dip as it works best with duco for fletching. The foreshaft I used "Dayls" Pro-Fin its a Tung oil finish. Bob

well, my arrows arent as pretty as most of yours are, if I stain I use laurel mountain forge stain, (left over from making gun stocks) and use birchwood caseys true oil for finish. I usually only do 1 or 2 at a time.chuck

The arrows turned out ok in the end, this morning. I steel wooled them a little and they will be fine. But I will probably go with something else in the future, no more Laquire. I know I am spelling that wrong.

It does look like you guys use a wide range of finishes. I think the Mim Wax stain is probably ok, and just steel wool before adding the seal coat.

That Rust-Oleum Clear is fairly east to find, I may try some of that or maybe just a wipe on Poly in the future.

I have made many arrows over the years and fir makes some very beautiful arrows. I use all oil base paints and stains. Miniwax stain rubbed on with a rag, then at least 3 coats of miniwax oil base satin polyurethane put on with my fingers. The poly will thicken some as it ages in the once open can and it actually works smoother when it gets thicker and fills pores better. Smooth with fine steel wool between coats. For crests and crowns I use rustolium oil base paint and it works out great and lasts. Map[e and red oak stains make the grain really stand out.

Chairman, yes, I did wipe the stain down, and let it dry before adding the sealer. I did know that much, from my limited staining projects in the past. But I didn't steel wool before spraying the topcoat. That's probably a fairly important step for best results.

Douglas fir has very thirsty early wood. Takes a lot to seal it.

I've always used brush-on lacquer for the whole shaft one coat does a pretty good job, but there are usually wood fibers that curl up just enough to feel, so I usually steel wool the dried surface then follow up with another coat of lacquer. That will still have a few gritty spots, so I use the paper side of sandpaper to polish the shaft.

As Bob said, Duco sticks to lacquer with no problem. It has the same base as lacquer. The two even smell the same.

Grab a silver can of the Min-Wax wipe-on stuff and go to town. I've tried about everything and it's the easiest with no waste, like using the rattle cans. Make sure you let any stain dry at least overnight, rub with fine steel wool and then a dry cloth to get any dust off. Wipe on a coat of finish or two, let dry and steel wool again if you're doing more coats. Some of the fanciest ones I've made had about 5-6 coats, but that's not necessary.

Good luck and let's see what you come up with.

NEVADA? Gots Photos? What spine etc are You using? Love details? GOOD HUNTING and BLESSED BE!

I've been using Min-Wax stains on my shafts for years. Then I dip them in Min Wax polyurethane oil based. Let dry, sand with steel wool, wipe dust off and dip again for a good smooth finish. sometimes a 3rd coat. You can thin the poly with one part thinner if you want.

exactly what I have been doing dnovo

done a lot of arrows since the late 1970's that way

usually use 2 stains one for cap and one for shaft-let dry light sand then dip -dry and steel wool the first and second dip and the third I crest before and dip and just polish with a rag

but gotta let stuff dry

Here's some pictures of 3 arrows, I finished up tonight. I will shoot these tomorrow at a 3D shoot. The white paint is still a little tacky but will be fine tomorrow. The cresting is cheap Walmart shelving paper, not even of Oracal quality, but it's all they had. I have made a few other arrows with it, and while not fantastic in my opinion, it will work and hold up.

White paint on the point end for about 9 inches, sprayed on over the Lacquer finish coat.

I made up a couple of these, a few days ago with the white cresting and painted white tips. Shooting these 3D targets, I am definitely gap shooting at the longer ranges, and sort of secondary vision on the closer shots and these arrows just seem to line up better.

Picture of the point ends.

Close up of the shaft. They didn't turn out too bad, considering, my methods, etc.

I read somewhere that Roger Rothhaar used to paint his arrows, with a gray primer, I believe, so he could see them better. That's where I got the idea to try this.

^^^^ NEVADA...They look stout! What bow will You be using? GOOD HUNTING & BLESSED BE!

Not too shabby!

Many of the older archers called that pai t on the point end a sock. I know of several folks who use or used that method.

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