From: Dan Jones
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Date: 29-Sep-22 |
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I am making a maple board bow. I'm near the desired draw weight and the tiller is 1/4 inch positive or plus on the lower limb. My understanding is that a well-tillered bow will be even or positive on the upper limb. My question is: What do I do at this point to get the tiller even or positive on the upper limb?
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From: fdp
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Date: 29-Sep-22 |
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Shoot it.
You are talking about an arbitrary static measurement that has been accepted mostly from the fiberglass bow world.
The dynamic tiller (or the way the bow behaves when you shoot it) is a product of dynamic tiller. The 2 don't always agree.
If the bow shoots well, isn't "shocky" and sits still in your hand when you shoot it, leave it alone. I don't care what the static tiller measurement is as long as the bow sits dead in MY hand when I shoot it.
Plus, when you get the bow to full draw weight and full draw length you may very well find the current measurement has changed any way.
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From: bradsmith2010santafe
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Date: 29-Sep-22 |
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if the lower limb is a bit stiffer,, your good,, but as stated,, if it shoots well,,your good,,
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From: George Tsoukalas
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Date: 29-Sep-22 |
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How is the grain, Don? Is it straight tip to tip or nearly so? Jawge
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From: Runner
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Date: 29-Sep-22 |
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You scrape the upper limb.
If a bow has a slightly weaker lower limb early on, chances are that will get worse with time.
cue Jeff Durnell with some long winded "Torgesing" ;)
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From: George Tsoukalas
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Date: 29-Sep-22 |
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Dan, what I do as I proceed to full draw is I short draw the stave just to see how it feels in the hand. Check to see if the pressure is even as I short draw. How it feels in the hand is important to me. That's a tip from the Dean too. May his memory be eternal.
Later I have someone take a digi photo so I can see how the tiller looks at full draw.
Full draw is what matters to me. I look for even tiller or the bottom limb slightly stiffer.
Jawge
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From: 4nolz@work
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Date: 29-Sep-22 |
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Can you flip it over or did you cut in a shelf
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