Is it possible to adjust the tiller on a non-ILF bolt-down bow?

I shoot 3 under and prefer even tiller. Easy enough to adjust on my ILF bow. My bolt down bow is 1/4” positive tiller. Shoots great split finger w/ nock point at 1/2”. Not so great 3 under. Tried raising the nock point to an inch and then working down - no help there. Afraid to raise the nock point any higher.

Any advice?

Thanks!

Not really.I'm not sure it's that important that nock adj wouldn't be enough.Extreme measures ossibly could reduce 1 limb?

It wouldn't take much to even it by edge sanding the lower limb. That will require some refinish along the edges when done. You need to do both sides exactly the same alternating sides and following the existing rounding of the edges. Baby steps and checking tiller constantly. You would be surprised how little it takes to accomplish this.

I'm not recommending that you do this, just explaining how!

I suppose you could do it if you could make just the correct size tapered shim to put under the limb butt. However, I've never encountered a standard positive tiller bow that couldn't be shot 3-under.

The shim would be simpler and requires no permanent change to the limb.

Certainly shim the pocket. It don't take much. >>>-----> Ken

Yeppers just shim the limb pocket. But you don't really even have to do that.

Harold Groves showed me 30 years ago that all you have to do is adjust The limb bolts the way you want them to be.

One thing that you didn't elaborate on though is what kind of problem you are having and what exactly you are trying to solve.

Just curious, what make and model is the bow? HomeDepot carries plastic window and door shims that make perfect limb pad adjusters. They can be cut and put in either way to strengthen or weaken a limb, or increase limb preload as a whole. After experimenting to see if this tiller adjustment can make the bow shoot better for you, you could send it off and get the tiller adjusted properly. Some bows don't shoot the way you expect even with a different tiller, so you might want to experiment with it before any costly modification.

If it is like a Sage or whatnot, try using a coffee can plastic lid, cut to shape and drilled in the right spot(s). Add a layer of thin inner tube, layer....not cross section, on top or under the lid material. Bolt that limb right in there. I have never done that but I betcha it would work, one limb ir the other!

Thanks all!

@fdp - "One thing that you didn't elaborate on though is what kind of problem you are having and what exactly you are trying to solve."

When I shoot the bow 3 under, it is noisy and "twitchy." Any slight error in hold or release would send the arrows off target - very unforgiving bow relative to my other bows. In the past, I tried to address this w/ overly heavy arrows. This morning I tried shooting it split finger and it was quiet and forgiving. I was also able shoot arrows with an appropriate grain and spine for the bow. In fact, I was grouping my arrows like @Frisky and I certainly do not have his innate skills.

I guess I could just shoot split - apparently the bow is tillered for this style. But dang, my fingers are sore - will this go away w/ practice?

If your fingers are sore, I'm guessing you're shooting a fairly short bow (and/or have a long draw) and getting some finger pinch, which would be exacerbated with split vs 3- under. A short bow is also more sensitive to a poor release (i.e., twitchy) than a longer bow. There isn't much you can do about the noise problem. 3-under is just noisier because it vertically torques the limbs a bit more/differently.

Is the b bottom of your pointer finger and the top of your middle finger what is sore?

@fdp "Is the b bottom of your pointer finger and the top of your middle finger what is sore?" -

Yes!

@Orion - "If your fingers are sore, I'm guessing you're shooting a fairly short bow (and/or have a long draw) and getting some finger pinch, which would be exacerbated with split vs 3- under. A short bow is also more sensitive to a poor release (i.e., twitchy) than a longer bow." -

60" and I draw just a bit over 28" Unlike @Frisky, I have always had trouble w/ my release and usually focus on this when I take lessons w/ Tom Clum.

@longshot1959 and @Yellah Nocks -

About 15 years ago, Bryan Holley of Spirit Bows (known for his longbows) built some prototype take-down recurves 60" I think that mine was #5 and the first lighter draw bow (40 lbs. - the rest were over 50 lbs.) I knew Bryan and knew the risk - but rolled the dice. Mine had a twisted top limb and went back 2x for warranty work. He reshaped the string nock on the upper limb and got most of the twist out. His advice was to leave it strung in a cool place and keep shooting it. Eventually the twist straightened out. He stopped making these recurves soon thereafter.

All - maybe this is just not the bow for me - which is unfortunate. I like the grip shape and the limbs have some yew in the laminations - fast shooting for a 40 lb. bow. I asked another bowyer for a second opinion and his immediate reaction was "that bow is too short for you."

Thanks for all the advice!

Also, if the upper and lower limbs are configured the same, try flipping them.

@Longcruise - "Also, if the upper and lower limbs are configured the same, try flipping them."

Thanks - thought about this, but b/c of the top limb twist and after the bowyer reworked the string nock, I am concerned that flipping the limbs will cause string alignment problems.

Bow isn't too short for your draw length.

I should have also asked the question that fdp asked. If your index finger is sore there, your drawing arm elbow is probably too high, causing extra pressure on your index finger. It can also contribute to an erratic release because your finger can hang up occasionally, not to mention plucking to try to avoid the pain. Of course, plucking only exacerbates the problem.

Work on lowering your drawing arm elbow.

@Orion - thank you. High elbow is a bad habit from shooting slingshots in the winter months. Worked on it this morning - fingers feel good!

Thanks all!

Also make sure that there is minimal weight on your ring finger, that can really help with noise

I put pretty good pressure on my ring finger and even with a 0 tiller 3 under is noisy. Some bows just hate 3 under from my experience, so shoot split and enjoy archery.

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