Ill admit, i just love shooting aluminum. To me it just seems so much more forgiving and easy to work with.

My question is, with a lot of the weight in the shaft, you dont need the really heavy weight broadheads you end up with when you use glue ons and adaptors.

What heads did folks use when you needed 125 or so up front? My 1916 aluminum with 125 is 450 grains and they bare shaft great. I know stingers are out there now but what are some other options? I probably need 2 blades at #43.

Thanks!!

Two blade Black Diamond Eskimoes

Eskimos with adapters weigh around 160gr.

Eskilites with adapters weigh 135gr.

I have a ton of Eskimos I'd love to hunt with but they're way heavier than the 125gr target points I practice with. They kick all the way to the target.

Ace makes 100 gr or 110gr with aluminum insert will get 125gr to 135gr. Esklites are another option.

Ace Archery Tackle

145 Bear Razorhead screw-ins. That's what I used on a lot of my aluminum hunting arrows back in the day.

eskilites.

ACE 125 grain standard aluminum aluminum adapter

I prefer Eskimo’ s with my 1916’s , they fly real well, no tuning

Eskilites, Ace Standards and the original Magnus heads later called Classics.

Zwickey, Grizzly, MA2, MA3, Magnus, just to name a few.

Before I started using carbon, I shot 2514's with 145 gr screw in heads. Mostly the Zephyr Sasquatch.

Shot those for many years. Never really liked the fat shafts, but they were necessary.

Rick

Beastmaster:

To use those Eskimos you could go up a couple of steps in shaft size. I am guessing 2018s would tune and trajectory would not be too much different at short hunting distance. Tune by altering shaft length with a tube cutter from the hardware store. Chamfer the shafts with the tang of a file. - lbg

I shoot 2219s most all the time, once in awhile 2216s or 2117s but I'll use 125 grain Zwickey Eskimo 4 blades but I swage my aluminum shafts, so no insert or broadhead adapter. Works well for me and it's kind of cool to me that I can keep old school swaging going.

The lightest points I have shot are 145gr on aluminum shafts. To get that weight with Zwickys was to use the 5/16 115gr Eskimo's and a long aluminum adapter to get close. After sharpening they were within a few grains of the 145gr field points. I don't think I have ever shot 125gr points out of any of my Traditional bows. DANNY

I use 125 stinger buzzcuts or 125 snuffers on 2117s.

MP

Griz...i had a set of those swaged shafts many years ago. Man were those cool.

You can still have aluminum shafts swaged at Mike's Archery in Ironton, Ohio.

It's just a math thing, adapter weight + broadhead weight = total tip weight. Always works too. If it's five or ten grains off, you're not going to notice it anyway.

I have a ton of glue in adaptors. If the bare shaft tunes good, i kinda figure feathers and a wrap are about 20 grains so a 35 grain adaptor and a 125 glue on works.

Ditto George

175 grain field point

125 /145 grain glue on ACE + long aluminum adaptor

close enough 175 ACE hex blunts

or 135 grain Judo on aluminum adaptor all covered and good to go

Yea I like being able to swage my arrows Briar, I just lucked into the kit on ebay. I think if done well the swage is stronger than an insert or adapter

Grizbow do you use a lathe or drill press to swage your shafts?

Drill press

Is there video on the swaging?

If I wanted to make super tough swages, and was worried about the reports of it weakening the arrow (as though anything could be worse than RPS), I would just inject a measured amount of epoxy into the tip, add some microballoons.

I used to use 100 grain grizzlies when they were out there, and a swagged 2212, I think it was to get a 5 grain arrow for a compound bow. Magic. I think that was the formula.

I don't know how to post a video, I just chuck the die in my drill press and keep wd40 on it I'd say I spray it 2x per shaft maybe 3x and just take my time and run the die down on the shaft, Id have to look but I had to set my press at I think 1500 or so. Cause to fast and you will mess the shaft up quick. Once I get rolling I bet it doesn't take 30 minutes to do a dozen shafts. And the swage is very strong on XX75s the camo finish stays on and it doesn't seem to weaken them at all, when done correctly of course, I can touch the swage once I pull the arrow out of the block that holds the shaft in place it's hot but won't burn you. That's where the wd40 helps, I wouldn't dare touch the die though, it will burn you lol ask me how I know.

Heat is the killer for sure. And getting them too hot will makecthem brittle.

Frizbow an old machinery told me to use bacon grease. He said it worked even better than WD-40. I haven't tried it yet.

Makes sense the wd40 is just what I have, plus I imagine the clean up from the grease would be more of a hassle. Definitely keep them cooler though Absolutely on getting them to brittle, I find the gamegetters are a little harder so you have to be more careful with those. Do you swage your own arrows Frank?

Yes. I bought a swaging tool from a member on here a few years ago. I haven't done anyhow far this year though.

I did a little weighing tonight. My bare shaft was about 430. Adding 4 feathers and a wrap added 20. I figured i could add 20 to the front. That works out perfect with a glue in adaptor and an eskimo and a 470 finished arrow weight.

Briar what shaft are you using?

I am using 1916 shafts. If they are cut to 28 i use 145 tips. At 29 125 works better.

A 28" 1916 bare shaft should be 280 grains, at 10 gpi. Add the other gozintos...wrap, broadhead, inserts, etc., brings it to 470 gr.

George your exactly correct

Longbowguy,

I'm well aware of going up in spine to use the heavier Eskimos. I also know how to cut and chamfer them. Been at this for a long time. Thanks anyway.

I experimented grinding weight off the Eskimos. Tried venting as well as taking off the rear edge. Not enough weight loss to make much difference.

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