| From: Don T. Lewis
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| Date: 10-Dec-21 |
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To get the job done? What size draw knife do you find works best when working a stave? I found this E.G. Simmons Keen Kutter at an antique store in town. How do you sharpen your draw knife? This one is in really nice shape and I like the feel to it. My collection of draw knives is growing. Something I really didn’t expect to happen.;)
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| From: DanaC
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| Date: 10-Dec-21 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kP1AFDDJoeE
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| From: reddogge
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| Date: 10-Dec-21 |
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To initially establish the angle of the edge I mark the edge with a black Sharpie and clamp it to my bench. I then put on my kevlar carving glove and use an Arkansas stone and oil to work the edge with both sides of the stone going against the edge. Flip it over and lightly remove any burrs from the flat side. I lay a large rectangular piece of heavy leather with sharpening compound on it on a board and clamp it to the bench. Then with two hands strop the edge until it's shiny and like a mirror. Turn it over and strop the burr if any formed. The stropping is all I ever do from that point on to bring the edge back to a razor's edge. I use mine for decoy carving and not staves so there may be a difference in sharpening for staves.
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| From: Jeff Durnell
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| Date: 10-Dec-21 |
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That looks like a good one, Don. Nice find.
8" is what I use most often when going at an osage stave's bark and sapwood, and I have a few of those in different styles, but I have some 6" ones I really like too. They work fine on most staves. You just don't want your hands too close to a big splintery stave while you're yanking on a drawknife... so drawknife width between the handles is a consideration.
I have over a dozen that range in size from 4" to 12". I try to ignore the urge to bring them home, but if I'm in an antique shop, flea market, or yard sale and there's an old drawknife I don't already have, and it feels good and is in really nice shape, it's almost impossible to resist.
To sharpen, I file the flat side flat if it isn't already. Then file the bevel smooth and flat until it meets the other side. If it rolls a burr over onto the other side, flit it and remove the burr. I like to use a large smooth mill file in a sort of drawfiling motion. If I want it sharper yet, or when it comes time to touch it up, I run a hard smooth stone or diamond plate on it the same way. Only takes a few strokes once in a while to keep them good and sharp.
You don't want to use a Rada, Accusharp, or anything like that which removes metal equally from both sides. You want the back side flat.
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| From: buckeye
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| Date: 10-Dec-21 |
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That looks like a good one to me Don. I'm just learning to use them myself so not much help but I like the way a smaller one handles .
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 10-Dec-21 |
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Yes.
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| From: cobra
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| Date: 10-Dec-21 |
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Draw knives and cast iron skillets. Make me happy.
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| From: Bob Rowlands
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| Date: 10-Dec-21 |
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I've never used a draw knife, but what Jeff said about a single bevel is correct.
Single bevel is 'it' with many other cutting tools like chisels, paddle bits, drill bits, hole saw bits, saw blades, saw chain and other cutting tools. If you see ANY of those tools with two bevels, you need to redo the edge geometry to single bevel. That's a snap to do. Single bevel is very easy.
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| From: Jeff Durnell
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| Date: 10-Dec-21 |
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Yessir Bob.
One point of note, or exception if you will, to the single bevel on hand held cutting tools like drawknives, 'some' carving chisels, gravers, and such. Generally I like the backside to be flat as can be, but sometimes it's helpful to have a micro bevel on there which can be used to bring the cut up out of the work with a slight change of angle. And if you need to come up more quickly, guage the depth of cut, or use it to 'scoop', main bevel down is the way to go.
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