Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Zwickeys and sharpening them

Messages posted to thread:
Shortdraw 21-Sep-21
Dave Lay 21-Sep-21
longbow1968 21-Sep-21
Jegs.mi 21-Sep-21
fdp 21-Sep-21
Red Beastmaster 21-Sep-21
Live2Hunt 21-Sep-21
Sawtooth (Original) 21-Sep-21
Jon Stewart 21-Sep-21
smrobertson 21-Sep-21
Red Beastmaster 21-Sep-21
dnovo 21-Sep-21
stickbowhntr 21-Sep-21
westrayer 21-Sep-21
Stealth2 21-Sep-21
ottertails 21-Sep-21
lost run 22-Sep-21
Jason D 22-Sep-21
Live2Hunt 22-Sep-21
Jim 22-Sep-21
Red Beastmaster 22-Sep-21
Harleywriter 22-Sep-21
Geezer 22-Sep-21
Red Beastmaster 22-Sep-21
fdp 22-Sep-21
aromakr 22-Sep-21
nocking point 22-Sep-21
ottertails 22-Sep-21
cut it out 22-Sep-21
Jon Stewart 22-Sep-21
tradmt 22-Sep-21
arrowchucker 22-Sep-21
Wapiti - - M. S. 24-Sep-21
manybows 24-Sep-21
Bob Rowlands 24-Sep-21
hvac tech 26-Sep-21
From: Shortdraw
Date: 21-Sep-21




Was wondering if anyone has had any problem with sharpening the delta compared to the Eskimo? I've been using Rada sharpener and have no real issue with the Eskimos but the Delta's I can't seem.to get over the edge. They feel sharp but will not shave hair..just curious if anyone else has this issue .thanks

From: Dave Lay Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 21-Sep-21




I file then strop deltas and easily get them shaving sharp, I’ve never seen a difference in sharpening the different zwickey s

From: longbow1968
Date: 21-Sep-21




If you want it to shave (some don’t worry about it, but I do) go with some really light finishing strokes with the Rada with almost no pressure until you feel no resistance. Then strop the edges backwards on a cardboard box to pull the edge out. Follow this with a few swipes on a ceramic rod if you have one, or strop lightly on a legal pad. This method works well on most 2-blade heads for me.

From: Jegs.mi Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 21-Sep-21




If they are new it may be they are at a steeper angle than your old ones. Try adding some relief with a file. Your scraper is most likely not making full contact with the edge.

From: fdp
Date: 21-Sep-21




A few strokes on one side with a chainsaw file, turn it over and knock off the burr. Polish it up with a diamond, and a piece of leather and move on. Shaves hair and take about 10 minutes.

From: Red Beastmaster
Date: 21-Sep-21




Sharpen on my knee with a hand held file. No diff.

I don't want to shave deer. I want to kill them. Most on here turn sharpening into a mysterious process that takes a lifetime to master.

From: Live2Hunt
Date: 21-Sep-21




I get caught up in the how sharp is sharp and spending more time than I need to on them, plus I'm anal!!! Some say to sharpen till it about takes the skin along with your hair and others get sharp enough with a file. I have done both and have gotten them scary sharp but spend a lot of time on them, and then I have done them file sharp that seem sharp. Wish there was a standard test to tell if they are sharp enough and not a competition.

From: Sawtooth (Original) Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 21-Sep-21




Beastmaster x2!

From: Jon Stewart
Date: 21-Sep-21




I use a file and leave the jagged/burr edge on them.

From: smrobertson
Date: 21-Sep-21




I know these are not on the market anymore but I use the Tru Angle S-24 file sharpening system. Zwickeys, both Eskimos and Delta, Ribteks, Ace, Bear Razorhead all sharpen easily and get very sharp.

From: Red Beastmaster
Date: 21-Sep-21




"Wish there was a standard test to tell if they are sharp enough and not a competition"

Stretch a rubber band between your thumb and index finger. Fingers pointed down. Lightly hold your arrow by the nock with the point of the broadhead resting on the rubber band. Glide the head across the rubber band without down pressure. It should cut within one pass.

Again, I'm not going to shave a deer. I want to cut arteries and organs. The rubber band test simulates this.

From: dnovo Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 21-Sep-21




Beastmaster X3

From: stickbowhntr
Date: 21-Sep-21




All I ever do Hit with 8” file to get the edge a bit flatter than original grind , then a 6” after that and strop on fine polishing compound imbedded leather

From: westrayer
Date: 21-Sep-21




I just got a Rada sharpener that I plan on trying. It does a great job on the kitchen knives.

From: Stealth2 Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member
Date: 21-Sep-21




I have no problems with the Deltas or Eskimos using my KME, then finish them off on the RADA. They will shave hair.

From: ottertails
Date: 21-Sep-21




Beastmaster X4 ...both his posts. I've sharpened so many Zwickeys and other heads with just a file I could do it blindfolded ...and with the perfect angle.

And they all killed critters dead...dead...DEAD.

From: lost run
Date: 22-Sep-21




Best way I have found for sharpening bleeder blades on 4bl Zwickeys is using small file sold by Raptor Archery.

From: Jason D
Date: 22-Sep-21




Yep. Gave up trying to get Deltas sharpened and switched to No Mercys this year. Sharpen them in 1/4 The time it took for me to get Deltas sharp!

J.

From: Live2Hunt
Date: 22-Sep-21




Beast, that is what I do when I can find a rubber band in the house!! My wife puts the rubber bands we get on a ball and I cannot find it most times. I know, the store has a lot of them. Just one of those don't think of it till you need it things. Anyway, something like that to me is a standard test to tell others to do rather than "You need to get them scary sharp or don't hunt" That says nothing.

From: Jim Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 22-Sep-21




No problems. Use a Rada on the main blade and a file on the bleeder blades.

From: Red Beastmaster
Date: 22-Sep-21




How about "Hair popping sharp". That's my favorite one!

From: Harleywriter
Date: 22-Sep-21




It took awhile to get it through my old hard head but lightening the pressure after I get the angle proper gets em sharp. Also the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup works well - just make sure you drink the coffee before you turn the cup over.

From: Geezer
Date: 22-Sep-21




I would never take a file to my broadhead. I treat them like knives. Would you use a file on a knife? Are your knives not shaving sharp? If I come across a broadhead with a misshapen edge, I use a carbide sharpener - one of those things made for broadheads, those devices with angled cutters. Then finish with a stone.

From: Red Beastmaster
Date: 22-Sep-21




Depends on the knife. I sharpen my working knives with a file all the time.

From: fdp
Date: 22-Sep-21




And you think a carbide sharpener is less destructive then a file?

Broadheads aren't knives. Nor are they razors or axes.

From: aromakr Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member
Date: 22-Sep-21




Geezer: Quite a bit of difference between a Knife and broadhead's hardness, broadheads meant to be sharpened by the user are much softer than a knife and have been sharpened by files long before the carbide devises were ever thought of.

Bob

From: nocking point Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 22-Sep-21




I use a Rada on my Deltas

From: ottertails
Date: 22-Sep-21




fdp said it for me. "Broadheads aren't knives"

Those v-shaped carbide sharpeners will remove a lot of steel quickly if you're not careful. I have a few of them but they're just for light touch-ups out in the field. I don't like taking my files to the woods.

Learn how to use a file properly and over time you'll get the hang of it.

From: cut it out
Date: 22-Sep-21




I use files also. And use them on machetes and axes and lawn mower blades. Works fine. I do use a diamond stone after the file to get a cleaner edge on broadheads and machetes and they are sharp!! The diamond stone really takes it to the next level sharpness and takes very little effort.

From: Jon Stewart
Date: 22-Sep-21




Come on now geezer. Fred Bear put together a knife, file and stone kit for a reason. Besides sales of course.

As I mentioned above I just file them and leave the rough edge on the point. I would rather have it rip/tear thru the meat than slice thru it.

That's the way my dad taught me.

From: tradmt
Date: 22-Sep-21




I have never had a head too sharp.

I don’t know what a Rada is but light work with a file, steel, then strop will get any head to shave. The only time I have been heavy handed with a file is if I had to really do some re-shaping, otherwise it’s pretty light work.

Some seem to like a ragged edge and it just goes to show that mediocrity in sharpness of broadheads is probably not a big deal but I know the sharper the edge that I have been cut by, the easier, and more plentiful it bleeds.

From: arrowchucker
Date: 22-Sep-21




I got the files mounted in a vbox years ago. I run any head thru there then hit it with a steel. Done

From: Wapiti - - M. S. Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 24-Sep-21




Red beastmaster x 2

From: manybows
Date: 24-Sep-21




The Rada works just fine.

From: Bob Rowlands
Date: 24-Sep-21




A few light passes on the 6" bench grinder and refinement with dmt makes short work of even the dullest broadhead.

From: hvac tech
Date: 26-Sep-21




The main difference is the broad head has to have some flex or be able to bend . The term i like is tough not 62 rc hard. most blades are in the mid 40 s to low 50 in hardness so you can file sharpen them and they are tough meaning they will not break . Dave is right a file works good that is what i use . Look at a hand saw good example you can file them but they are very flexible and stay sharp a long time . I built a lot of steel cutting dies that were steel cutting steel and they were only 60 rc but they were ground on a surface grinder. File sharpening works great .





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