Howdy,

New to the site not sure if this has been covered. Currently trying to tune a Bear Montana factory weight @50# with xx75 platinum plus arrows and gamegetters. So far the only arrows I can get to fly perfectly straight bare shaft are 2219 gamegetters with a 250gr tip @ 30 yards. 3 rivers dynamic spine calculator and the easton charts seem to point to the 2016s but my 2016s didn't seem to approach straight flight until I put a 300gr point on it. I forgot to right down my arrow lengths and will update later. 16 strand flemish twist ABB with a brace height of 8". I want to get my point weight closer to 165-175 for zwickey broadheads and VPA small game heads.

Makes absolutely no sense 2219 are much stiffer than 2016's and would requite considerably more weight to act correctly dynamically.

You're getting false readings for sure. For a 2219 to work it would have to be about 32" long. That bow, with a low stretch string and 170 grain tips is more of a 2018 spine at 30" long. A 2016 should work at a 29" arrow and 170 tips.

Something is amiss somewhere. A 2219 is way stiff IMHO. I used to shoot them out of my 63#bow years ago, 30” with 175 gr up front and were still borderline stiff. George’s numbers are exactly where I am with my 50# longbow now and that’s a 30” arrow at 29” draw. Your draw weight and arrow specs would help.

There is no way anything that means anything can be done without knowing how long an arrow you draw! You do realize that the 50# rating on your bow is IF you are drawing it to 28", on average you will loose about 3# for every inch under 28" and will gain about the same for every inch over 28". That being said I would drop the brace height to somewhere between 6-7". then give us an accurate draw length. will go from there

Bob

iron -

If your data is correct, then you have a form flaws over-riding the tune. Tuning suggestions are just that, suggestions, but a 2219 from a mediocre (performing) LB like the Montana to too far off the norm. (Don't get me wrong, except for the price, I happen to like the Montana, but it is what it is.)

I didn't see your draw/arrow length, but my gut tells me dropping to a 1916 with std weight heads would solve the tuning problem, if a form problem exists, that's another story.

Viper out.

For what it's worth I shoot 29" 400 carbons with 250 grains up front out of my 55# and 50# Montanas with a 28-28.25 inch draw. I make the 400's work because I have a large supply of them, but they are borderline stiff. If I were to start over with tuning for these bows I would build a working arrow out of a 500 shaft.

Keep in mind the Montana is cut to center, unlike ASL's and many other longbows.

Your mileage may vary.

Mine likes 7 3/4" brace and nock about 1/2 inch above. I also shoot 175gr screw in Zwickey's, 2 blade Delta's. I can't speak to aluminum arrows any longer and it very much depends on your draw length and length of arrow you need and want to shoot. I would think a 2016 or 2018 in the smaller outside diameter arrows would be a good starting point with a 175gr head. Definitely have yourself some 175gr field points to start with as well. Pretty sure a 500 spine 30" with 175gr would fly reasonable well out of a 50# Montana.

I know everyone is different, but, I can only tell you what works for me and I am right handed and draw 28”. I shoot full length Easton 2016’s with 145 grain tips, both XX75 Legacy’s and Tributes. I have a 2003 50# Bear Montana. Works well for a mediocre guy like me.

Nice shooting Longbow1968. Seems like you have the perfect combo there.

Thanks, I know it was chance at 18 yds. I can’t actually see another nock at that distance, but they were flying straight enough that I literally don’t think I could have aligned those arrows any straighter.

Some great advice from Montana shooters and others. Keep working at it as once you get some arrows to tune I think you will find that the Montana is a very forgiving bow and other than a Howard Gamemaster Jet, the quietest bow I have ever owned.

Agree. A 2219 is just one step under a fence post.;^) >>>---> Ken

Yeah Ken, a metal fence post. When I shot heavy bows I loved them. Tuff shafts.

Sorry getting back late long days at work.

With Mediterranean draw I pull the 2016 to 32" the the top hat meets the arrow. The top hat hangs off the shelf about 1.75" off the shelf.

xx75 platinum plus 2016 arrows are factory length at 32". 33.75" with nock and 250gr. top hat target point. 300gr muzzie target points flew the straightest.

xx75 game getter 2219 arrows I cut to 30.5". 33" with nock and 250gr top hat target point.

I ran through several points all day long including 100,125,135,145,175,200,250 and 300 shooting at 10yd, 20yd and 30yd. I have considered my form to be an issue as previously described but the combination flies perfectly straight and my shots were consistent. On the 30 yard target I had a 4" orange mark that I was able to hit very consistently and the arrows landed almost straight maybe leaning just a tad left.

From what I know I would agree with most of you something isn't adding up. From what the math tells me 2016 should be ideal but real world results aren't reflecting that.

I am also waiting for a lb. tester and a proper draw length arrow to arrive in the mail for more autistic testing.

iron -

IN THEORY:

50# bow drawn to 32" = 60#

50# at 28" = 500 spine (2016) with std weight (125 grain) heads

60# at 32" = 375 spine (2216)

Every 100 grains of head weight above std = "about" 0.1" deflection/10# of dynamic spine.

So, in effect, 2219s + 250 up front may not be all that far off, even though the Montana ain't the fastest horse in the barn.

Your draw length was the missing key.

Viper out.

Maybe it is your release. Try working on form, as too often "trad archers," tend to blame the arrows.

ironranger, that's some kind of long pull!

Manufacturer recommended brace height is 7.5-8.5 inches (I stick to 8-8.25). That 6-7 inch suggestion indicates a complete lack of familiarity with the Montana. Again, it is not an ASL.

Update: I received my Easton draw check arrow. Without the poundage tester I am comfortably drawing 31.25 before it starts getting scary. My poundage tester is reading between roughly between 65 and 66 pounds. The meter is a Last chance archer HS3.

I have only ever had my draw length checked twice in my life. Once when I was a child and once about two years ago. They claimed I had a draw length of 27.75. Have I been lied to all these years?

This probably explains why I have had such a hard time tuning.

Yep.

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