I figure if it gives enough light to shoot a bow at a feeder, then it'll work on the bow as well. :-)

Salvaged parts from a bad flashlight, and a bad feeder light, and building a bow mounted feeder light.

Still have a little casing work to do before being finished, but she works. :-)

Rick

Well crap. Looks like picture aren't posting again. :-(

Maybe get some posted later.

Rick

I’ll check with some of the WV good ole boys and see what they use for night hunting

[[[ "I’ll check with some of the WV good ole boys and see what they use for night hunting." ]]]

Unless they are using lights for hunting pigs up close with a recurve I doubt their ideas would be of much help.

But - who knows. :-)

Rick

Being a WV good ole boy most of us use the old carbide head lamp. Hope that helps.

Here is a short list of "my" features for an acceptable light for night bow hunting.

(1) Illumination must be of a color that does not spook the animal. In this area green works best.

(2) Illumination should not be overly bright. Just enough to give ample light for shooting at short distances of 20 - 25 yards max.

(3) Light must be mounted out in front of the bow, and beneath the arrow. Otherwise it will cast a shadow of the bow, and/or the arrow. Moving shadows on the ground spook animals.

(4) Light must be such that there is no back flood of illumination into your eyes.

Rick

It sounds like a stabilizer bushing mount is needed.

[[[ "It sounds like a stabilizer bushing mount is needed." ]]]

In my experience, that's the best way to use a light.

For those who do not have a bushing in the riser there are products that strap on to provide it.

The one & only drawback I have found to such a mounting position is - it can make it difficult, or even impossible to shoot out the windows of a blind (like a popup).

When hunting from a blind at night I just mount a light outside the blind.

The bow light is for sneaking around. :-)

Rick

I had a light on my bow I mounted it on the bow or the quiver I had a remote switch that I turned on and off with my little finger . But I didnt have much luck with it the hogs ran off many times when the light came down on them . A kill light or a green drive way light on a ten foot t post worked much better. Just dont sit there the first couple of nights after you put it up . They will go down wind of it to start with .

No electronics allowed on bows here in Washington State.... is Texas the same? Just askin'...

Texas allows electronics, BUT you can't hunt anything at night except varmints, which pigs are classified as.

Rick

I've wrapped a headlamp around the riser for shootin frogs

Montana also does not allow night hunting or use of electronic devices when hunting. Just sayin.

Rick, if you can P.M. me I will tell you how I wired my bow light for a quiet easy touch switch. >>>-----> Ken

A green mini mag led works great. AAA size is perfict. I'll post a photo if I can. I made a couple of them. One is a flashlight /laser combo.

Ok..here's my night shoot options. Plain MiniMag green led or same with a laser. The laser was pulled from a "junk" bin at a gunshop. Originally it used a 1/2 AA size 3V battery. I grabbed some sizes from it and made an extension. Now it uses 2 standard AA batteries. The black bands are just "O" rings and they help keep everybody tight and quiet. And obviously it just screws into the stab bushing of the riser.

Sorry guys... There's still issues with uploading photos which have been reduced.

This is rediculous.... Oh well...sorry guys. Photos...no can dodo...

I am done building the light with exception to building the pressure switch.

Once I'm done, and can (if ever) post pictures again I'll post up.

Rick

Got the light all done including the pressure switch.

Hopefully these pictures will explain my process.

Works great !

Rick

As you can see in the pics, I replaced the set screws with thumb knobs. :-)

Rick

All these parts were salvaged from bad or broken lights.

The back flood prevention hood around the light is just some of the same foam I used elsewhere.

The hood is glues in place.

The only thing I bought for this was the black tape to make the hood look a little better where it is glued on.

Rick

Ready for those hogs. >>>-----> Ken

That pressure switch assembly I am quite proud of.

Honestly - the hardest part is drilling the hole in the housing for the wire to pass through.

You need to be selective in location & careful not to damage any internals when you drill it. Other than that it's quite easy to build, and you can't get a quieter switch, so I thought I would share the design for others to use.

A long time ago, I discovered that if I would turn the light on pointed off to the side, then slowly swing it onto them that they a lot of the time wouldn't even notice it. Kind of the same principle as lights that start out dim and slowly get brighter.

Sometimes the light spooks them, but they usually don't move much when it does. Most of the time they freeze up for a few seconds, which gives you a good standing still shot. That's a good thing where pigs are concerned, because they seldom stand still.

Rick

The talent on this site is amazing!

Excellent Rick!

Who hoo! Pics!

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