Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


35# @ 28"

Messages posted to thread:
H-Town 05-Sep-24
jwingman 05-Sep-24
Corax_latrans 05-Sep-24
Earl Mason 05-Sep-24
2 bears 05-Sep-24
Bob Rowlands 05-Sep-24
Jon Stewart 05-Sep-24
Viper 05-Sep-24
aromakr 05-Sep-24
Corax_latrans 05-Sep-24
2 bears 05-Sep-24
Larry Burford 05-Sep-24
4t5 05-Sep-24
4t5 05-Sep-24
Sir Coco 05-Sep-24
Bluefeather 05-Sep-24
bugsy 49 07-Sep-24
2 bears 07-Sep-24
RonG 07-Sep-24
Nimrod 07-Sep-24
From: H-Town
Date: 05-Sep-24




Does this arrow sound about right for a 35# @ 28" Traditional Only Oberon 60" recurve bow if my actual draw length is 27.5"?

I'm thinking a 29" long Easton Legacy 700 with standard aluminum inserts and a 125 grain head should fly pretty well.

I'm not talking about killing game with this set up. Just punching paper. Let me know your thoughts when you can. Your feedback is greatly appreciated!

From: jwingman
Date: 05-Sep-24




Yes, I am shooting 700 spined arrows full length with 125 points at 35-40 pounds from several bows, recurve and longbows.

From: Corax_latrans
Date: 05-Sep-24




Can you ask someone for a definitive answer on the centercut? That is probably the most important difference from one otherwise similar bow to the next, although your string and the thickness of your sideplate are important as well— it’s just that both of the last two items are pretty easy to figure out…

The good news is that if you put 4” or 5” feathers on one end and a field point on the other, there is a lot of tolerance for spine, especially with carbons. But if you’re cutting to 29”, you might be better off with an 800; I know guys shooting 700s from bows in the #35-#40 range, but they shoot full length and with heavier points.

From: Earl Mason
Date: 05-Sep-24




That will absolutely work!!!!! You can hunt with that exact setup. Close shots and a sharp cut on contact broadhead. Have fun and good luck.

From: 2 bears
Date: 05-Sep-24




It will be close enough you will never know the difference. If you are really into tuning a length & point weight adjustment will put you dead on. At the very most a slight adjustment of the side plate. It will work. I shoot both 600 & 700's out of 35 # with a near 30" draw. Probably could make 800 work too if cut to bare min. & light enough point. You shouldn't have trouble with either one. >>>----> Ken

From: Bob Rowlands
Date: 05-Sep-24




To quickly figure out my bows centercut, I prop the strung bow against a wall. Stand back, visually center the string on the limbs, and eyeball the string at the arrow pass.

From: Jon Stewart
Date: 05-Sep-24




1916's will work also

From: Viper
Date: 05-Sep-24




H -

They will probably tune slightly stiff, but not enough to worry about.

Full length 1816s would be optimal - if your form is decent.

Viper out.

From: aromakr Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member
Date: 05-Sep-24




I second Bob Rowlands, assessment of figuring out centershot.

Bob

From: Corax_latrans
Date: 05-Sep-24




“ I shoot both 600 & 700's out of 35 # with a near 30" draw. ”

So is that really more like #38-#39 and a full-length arrow? And what’s your point weight? (I won’t ask if you’re tuned with that set-up! LOL)

FWIW, if there’s anyone who knows more about target-weight set-ups than Viper, I don’t know who it would be… No offense to any of the Old Hands, but All Day Long, Every Day….

From: 2 bears
Date: 05-Sep-24




Viper wrote the book & it is about the best one out there. Everyone should read it. "1816 is optimal" That is about 756 spine. Just about midway between the 700 & 800's I recommended. Yeah I can tune 600 or 700 from my bow. Haven't tried 800 but cut to just shy of the arrow rest & with a nibb I bet it will tune perfectly.

He didn't ask about a hunting arrow & he didn't ask about an aluminum arrow. If I am not mistaken he asked about a 700 arrow that I assumed was carbon. Although some are labeling both ways now.

I understand why you have elk on your mind.;^) Have a good but most of all safe trip. >>>>------> Ken

From: Larry Burford
Date: 05-Sep-24




I say a 1916 would be good also. I just don't know a thing about carbons.

From: 4t5
Date: 05-Sep-24




My 33# longbow gets along with 700’s cut to 29” with 145 gr tips just fine. I draw an even 28”.

From: 4t5
Date: 05-Sep-24




My 33# longbow gets along with 700’s cut to 29” with 145 gr tips just fine. I draw an even 28”.

From: Sir Coco
Date: 05-Sep-24




Hey H-T that combo is pretty much what I shoot. Easton Legacy 700’s out of my 35lb. longbow @27in. draw cut to 29.5 in. W / 145gr. tips Have fun on your journey !

From: Bluefeather
Date: 05-Sep-24




From what I have read that is a pretty high performance bow so the 700's should work. I also think 29" with a 125gr point is going to be too stiff. Like 2 bears my draw is 30" and I'm shooting 32" 700's with 150-175gr heads out of bows that are 33 to 35 at my draw length. However you end up have fun with it!

From: bugsy 49
Date: 07-Sep-24




Full length 2040 predators. 125 gr tip. 370 grs.

From: 2 bears
Date: 07-Sep-24




Bugsy, must be a typo there. That won't work. >>>----> Ken

From: RonG
Date: 07-Sep-24




I normally don't get involved with carbons, but I tuned my 38lb. At my 27 inch draw Carbon limb recurve bare bow with.

Victory 3DHV V1 700 cut to 28.5 with 120 point and they fly great, reading what I see here my arrows should be stiff. Maybe they are and it doesn't matter from an elevated rest and berger button.

From: Nimrod
Date: 07-Sep-24




I find it interesting what arrow people will make work out of a 35# bow. Just goes to show you that everyone and every bow is different…….Nimrod





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