Considering a KME for sharpening my broad heads and knives. I would welcome any input from those who have used such. Thanks from your time.

Are you looking at the broadhead sharpening jig that you use in conjunction with your own whetstones or the clamp/guided rod system which is essentially an upgraded Lansky?

I have used the KEM sharpening jig for years. It does what it is supposed to do. Company support is superb. Quality equipment. I use it for both knives and my broadheads.

I had the KME roller jog for a few years and it was nice. I switched to the KME knife sharpening system when I started shooting single bevels. It works great for all Heads, even concave edges with practice. Also works awesome on the knives as well. I highly recommend one. I don’t use single beveles anymore but instill use mine for other heads. Well worth the money. Don’t buy the base, you can make one for cheap with a piece of wood and a dowel lol

Like BEARMAN said you can make your own base. This is the best knife sharpener IMHO. I’ve had mine forever, bought it with the diamond stones. They are still like new and I’ve sharpened lots of knives. You won’t regret buying it.

Lloyd

I love my KME knife sharpener because it works so well for both broadheads and knives. Very versatile and a quality tool.

It’s ok there are other similar products that I think are a little better. They aren’t archery focused though.

I don't know anything about a KME, but I just ordered a belt type sander/knife sharpener off of Amazon, and some belts of various grits. I didn't get it for broadheads, but may try it out for that.

I just have a lot of knives and hunting and Kitchen, etc. and I am getting tired of using a whetstone, diamond sharpeners, etc. And the whetstones don't seem to cut the higher grade knife steels for me. And the dimond stones seem to wear out after a while.

Here's what I just bought. I hope it works good. I went this route because I remember a couple of guys at gunshows that sharpened knives for people, for a buck or two a blade. And they used belt sharpeners. I had several knives sharpened by them over a period of time and they usually always got them shaving sharp for me.

We will see.

Please forgive me, not meaning to highjack this thread, but we are talking about knife and broadhead sharpening. I took delivery on the belt sander/grinder pictured above, today, and I already had an assortment of belts for it.

I put it together and replaced the factory sanding belt, as it way too rough for knife sharpening. I think I put a 1000 fine grit belt on it. I wish I bought something like this years ago. It worked great! I am mostly done with whetstones, etc. after this. I can get a hair shaving edge on anything so far, that I have tried.

I sharpened my Buck 117 with S35VN steel first and it was the one I learned on, and took me a little longer, because it was pretty dull, and needed the bevel re-established.

Then I sharpened a large Large survival knife that had been abused and pretty dull, and it turned out hair splitting sharp.

Then I tried My Applegate/Fairbairn double edged dagger, which I carry in addition to my handgun, when traveling, etc. This knife has always been hard to sharpen and get a razor edge on it. I think it's the bevel on it something. Anyway, I thinned out the bevel a little and it took a fine shaving edge.

And last but not least, I sharpened my Gransfors Bruk small forest ax, and it will shave hair, also. Now, I could have made all of these edges shave hair with just a file, whetstone or diamond sharpener, but this is a whole lot easier and faster.

Just saying if you are going to spend a bit of money on a sharpening system, I suggest spending a little bit more, and getting a belt sharpener of some kind. I am not saying this one is the best by any means but seems to be of good quality for the money, and collectively, I have spent a heck of a lot more over the years on various sharpening stones, etc.

I didn't try a broadhead, but I can't see why it would work just fine for broadheads, also, at least most 2 blade heads, except for the big concave Simmon's heads, maybe.

Picture of my ax. I skin a deer with this ax, easy.

No problem with your contribution……

I would lke to thank each one of you. I can clearly see a KME in my near future.

When I hear of descriptions of superb company support and quality that will last for years, I know I know that I have found the tool for me. Additionally, I will be able to travel with it!

How do you keep the correct angle Lastmohecken?

Jimmyjumpup, I just eyeball it, and a steady hand. I have never had a guide of any kind for my sharpening stones, etc. However, I might add a guide to this belt sharpener. I think Amazon sells one that bolts right on.

I am still trying to figure it all out, I am not sure as to what belt grit is best. I think it might depend somewhat on the knife metal, and of course what type of edge one wants. I sharpened a handmade bowie knife, I have, which has kind of a soft temper, and it's normally easy to sharpen on just a plain old arkansas soft oil stone, maybe followed up with an Arkansas hard stone. I did have a little trouble getting a razor edge with the belt. I did achieve it in the end, but would have been as well off to have just used stones on it.

Mindful, That KME might be a good system. I do strop on leather to finish up.

I wouldn't let my good hunting, skinning, filet, or deer processing knives within 5 miles of a belt sander. No, make that 100 miles.

My carving knives don't ever see a stone. All are done on a leather strop with compound, like a straight razor.

As a hoppiest knife maker I've used a lot of knife sharpeners. A belt sander that turns too fast can easily temper the blade without extreme measures. Tests of even the Work sharp mini belt sander show it will slightly heat the blade edge and temper the blade a few degrees off the original RockWell hardness. A blade steel is heated to a precise temperature (1460-2000 F) depending on steel then either quenched in oil, air or plate quenched to achieve maximum hardness. The steel is way too hard and brittle for use at this time. Then it is precisely heated at a lower temperature (275 -500 F)to temper the steel to the Rockwell Hardness desired for the steel and the intended use of it. A belt sander turning 1750 rpm can easily heat up the razor thin edge of a cutting blade. Fresh belts, low pressure and a water mister or constant dipping of the blade in water can help. But for me it' just too big of a gamble.

With that said I presently use a KME for sharpening. It has some flaws but overall it's a pretty good system. The expensive diamond stones don't last long EVEN if you do as they say and apply no pressure and let the stone do the work. If a knife blade has a distal taper the clamping system doesn't work as well.

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