Trying some old Bear Razorheads for the first time this year. I plan on using them with bleeders. Was wondering how the bleeders hold up when shot into a basic block style foam target? I want to make sure they are flying like I want but worried about breaking the bleeders in the target and I only have a few. Thanks for your input.

The bleeders won't make any difference in arrow flight, practice without them. Did it for years!

I would use just one for practice. In the early years I managed a few Deer with bleeders & they held upwell. My 1st horns, 1964.

Only shoot one arrow at your max range. A couple good form shots should be enough to let you know.

Agree with RD. Those bleeders will not handle the targets very well. At least not pulling the broadhead back out. I shoot them without the bleeders for practice, like you I only hve a few bleeders left, so I save them for the critters. I have never seen a difference from shooting with to without the bleeders on the heads.

-Bones

Thanks for the advice. I’ll remove the bleeders when practicing on a target.

I've had the same experience mentioned by others above. I shot a few into sand to reassure myself flight with or without bleeders would be good. Now I don't feel the need to use them in the broadheads tuning.

Steve

always shot with bleeders in and no problems.

They would definitely come out in my backstop, it's dense. I've lost a few broadheads in there when the hot melt failed. If the weight difference is going to keep you up nights, just substitute a 5-grain weight washer. When I shot them, they were getting harder to find. If they're still that way I'd learn how to touch them up and wouldn't toss 'em until damaged. If you lose one in a game animal and don't find it, chew softly, lol!

Put a drop of super glue where you attach them to your Broadhead.

Bear Razorhead Test from American-Hunter.com

The Bear Razorhead has been around for a long time, and with good reason. This head is not fancy, but it gets the job done very well. I tested the head as a two blade. By doing so I kept the weight down to 130 grains. If it is tested as a 4 blade, by using the bleeder blades, the score would remain the same, even though the bleeders give the head two more points, they also break off pretty easy. The first time I tested the Razorhead I gave it an accuracy score of 3. Since then I have revised this to a 4. In further tests I have found it to be as accurate as any quality fixed blade head, and therefore I feel it deserves the 4 rating.

In the plywood test the head penetrated fully without damage. In the tire it penetrated the first side with several inches of arrow shaft, again no damage. In the steel drum it penetrated the front fully with the tip and 1/3 of the blade surface sticking in the far side. This broadhead not only survived the tests, but with some sharpening, it would still be very serviceable for hunting. Like I said before, it’s not fancy, but it will get the job done very well. About the only thing I could find wrong with the head was the blade sharpness out of the package. It was not very good, but that was easy enough to fix with a good broadhead sharpener.

If I had unlimited money I’d pay whatever it would cost to get the original machine back up and running again. Be so cool if they could make them in there original form again.

The 1959 head pictured was found to be a 1957.

The rarest of the Bear Razorheads, the Bear Giant prototype. I don't believe they were ever sold to the public. Not many were made. If I remember correctly there were some flight problems using them.

If you need more bleeders or heads just shoot me a message I can spare some . Best broadhead ever made IMO. I take them in the woods every fall. I have a rare Exp Pinned-Bear in my collection. That head has some good luck mojo lol

Think Fred designed the bleeder to break off if hitting a rib so as not to hinder penatration I find bleeder blades don't affect flight really don't weight that much either

I've been shooting Bear Razors since 1960! I had shot several rabbits with them! Then in 1962 I shot my first big game animal a small 4 point whitetail buck! At the age of 75, I'm still shooting them along with a few Zwicky's now and them!If I do my park the Razorhead has always done its job. Sometimes I shoot the bleeder blade and sometimes I don't, either way they WORK fine when I do my part!!!!

Brendan, like some of the guys said, practice without them, it really should not make a difference.

And like Karl said above the whole idea of that design (bleeder blade) was to lessen drag on the shaft to increase penetration.

I did my own field test years ago on broadhead toughness concerning bone, shot three different heads into a cow jawbone at 10 yards. One of them was the Bear sans the bleeder, and I don't want to start any internet keyboard fights here, but that thing looked like a cheese curl when I chipped it out of that bone.

Good luck and Good Shooting->->->->Craig

Any broadhead can fail sometimes that's for sure none of them are invincible but I've never had a Bear Razorhead fail on me, but I stay away from hitting thick bones, rocks, or trees.

The bleeders will always break off and maybe that was intentionsal but still a good head within reason.

Great pictures and info Nemo. Thanks for posting them.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

Bear razor heads will do the job. With bleeders or with out. As long as you do your part. Good luck:)

I am a fan without the bleeders as well :)

I've used Bear heads off and on for 50 years - mostly without the bleeders. I shot a doe with one last year with the bleeder and had a nice pass through and the bleeder stayed on the head. Flight was never an issue for me. I intend to hunt with them again this season - along with a few other options.

Looks like you were pushing some Super SS there Frank or maybe the green/black year(78).

The one I shot into the jawbone was like the photo I posted. I do think the Supers were a bit sturdier being stainless, and the 78's are what I prefer if I have a choice.

Good Shooting->->->->Craig

I shot a lot of Bear Razorheads monkeyball, and killed quite a few animals with them, from my first deer (a doe) in 1971 to the last two bucks I killed in 2022 and 2023. I'd say the stainless Super Razorheads (1981 to 1999) were the toughest, then the Bear (greenie) Razorheads, and last the regular steel Super Razorheads (1978 to 1980) were in my opinion the weakest of the three. I read somewhere that the metal used in the Super Razorhead (1978 to 1980) wasn't as good as the Bear (greenie) Razorheads. I killed quite a few bucks with Bear (greenie) Razorheads and they did their job with no problems and no damage (but I never hit a large bone). I clean them up and will be using them again. Like I said in my first post no broadhead is invincible. Best to stay away from large bones, trees, and rocks.

Here is a Bear (greenie) Razorhead test (https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=S47ocgM0xBo). The razorhead did good until shot into a concrete cinder block. Very few if any broadheads are going to not be damaged by a concrete cinder block if shot from a fairly heavy poundage bow. I wish I had more Bear (greenie) Razorheads so I could test them against bone, wood, and concrete myself but I only have a limited supply. Do I think the Bear (greenie) Razorhead is the toughest/strongest broadhead, NO. But it is an excellent broadhead that has proven itself through the years. Even on an elephant. :)

I like to use them without the bleeder blade. I got a few old ones 1 - 1959 head & about 4 - 1964 heads, got plenty of bleeder blades. They are old & look awesome to me anyway.

I've shot many animals with them and had the bleeders stay put to be used again.

They definitely have taken there share of game and I saw that same test you speak of. The razorhead did pretty well till the cement block was put in front of it, which does not mean much as there are very few heads that are not going to be destroyed by that one.

I've never shot the stainless, mine were always the glue on and like I said that dark green/black always found it's way on my arrows if I had any.

Good Shooting->->->->Craig

Love shooting them. Nothing quite like a razorhead out of a Bear bow with fancy crested arrows.

Now buying them… I about keel over dead seeing what they go for anymore. I bought about 12-15 of them 10 years ago and were roughly $3-$5 dollars a head. For what people are getting now on ebay…. Bear should get some mechanical engineers on that old machine and figure out how to make greenies again.

If they started making them again nobody would buy them...they wouldn't be traditional enough and we would read post after post about how the "old ones" were better.

I never bothered with bleeder blades in my Razor heads this buck was shot in the base of the neck and it severed the vertebrae and killed the buck instantly.

They are great heads. I hit the lottery about 10 years ago at Denton Hill at the swap meet. A guy had an old metal coffee can full of the yellow ones. I got em for $20. I could not believe it. I later had someone give me a bunch of bleeder blades for them. I have given a lot away. I have enough to last me the rest of my life. I can sharpen them well and. they fly great. I liked the price in Nemo's pic. $4.50/dozen.

Get rid of the bleeders & shoot 2 blade greenies......Best ever !!!!

I never could get them sharp until I started using a RADA sharpener. Last year I killed a doe with one and it performed flawlessly.

I also sharpen them with a RADA. This one was slightly off mark hitting a bear in the shoulder at 6yds from the ground. Nine days later the bear showed up on my trail camera at the same spot going in the opposite direction with a healed shoulder wound.

I have an unopened package of those dark green Razorheads, I’m glad to see they performed better than I expected them to.

They are great heads Ive used them since I was a youngster . I always use the bleeder its meant to open the hide to give a better blood trail hardly ever have the bleeders not survived only on a Gemsbok in Africa and a couple of deer, maybe it was the way the arrow was removed that the bleeders were gone . I even shot through both shoulder blades of a buck and the bleeder was still in the head . Practice with out or you will leave the bleeder in your target when you remove the arrow wont make any difference bleeder or not for accuracy ..

Am a Bear Razor since 1953 >The only think I watch out for with a BEAR RAZOR,Whenn you get ready to field dress your harvest.Make SURE the Bleeder is still with the Broadhead.I have only cut myself once on a bleeder. HURTS and Bleed like Crazy! Come close other times.Just make sure ya find the Bleeder before it finds You..

There is a guy who used to post on here some, Dendy Cromer (original sawtooth). He is serious pig killing machine, and hunter. Dendy uses the Bear Greenie a lot. If you look up his handle I sure you will find plenty of picks where he used the Bear Razorhead. I like them myself, but shoot a few different heads.

-Bones

Dry Bones X2.

Dendy (Sawtooth Original) is one serious and top-notch pig bowhunter. I know no one who has killed more pigs than Dendy. And he's a dang good whitetail deer bowhunter also.

No bleeder blades for me. Do not need them.

Dry bones x3

I've had good luck with 'em., no bleeders. This guy was at about 19yds. I was using a 44#, AA X-48 with a 2018 and an older razor head. You can see the entrance and it stopped at far-side shoulder blade.

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