Is there such a thing as good, better and best broadhead? We have a lot of premium heads with premium prices. What is your opinion? Are they more deadly than any of the long established broadhead?

More deadly? What does that mean exactly? People still kill game efficiently with knapped obsidian.. Anything else is opinion.. Some from actual experience, others with something they saw on YouTube.. Pick a head that you can sharpen well, and learn to shoot under hunting pressure accurately... Repeat....

Lots of good heads that have stood the test of time-- Zwickey, ACE, Bear, Stos, Woodsmans, etc. Most of the touted newer heads are stubby with poor mechanical blade angle, and though they're priced very high, I don't think they're as good for trad bows as those we already have.

Single vs double bevel is a personal preference thing. I've killed critters with both. Either gets the job done.

Yes... but 'best' isn't as related to price as it is relative to the balance of the equipment used, the game hunted, the archer shooting them, the person and methods judging them, the result of the efforts of the person(or machine) sharpening them, the particular shot circumstances, and more.

More deadly? Nah. Down within sight(20-30 yards)... let me know when that is improved upon with 'premium prices'. Won't happen.

When it comes to life, death, and possible suffering, razor sharp time proven sturdy heads and precise placement trumps the latest- greatest, sales pitches, biases, premium prices and justifications.

(Un)Common sense rules.

More deadly? If hits are in the vitals? Nope. A better broadhead for when you might hit that front shoulder joint? Absolutely.

Lots of dead critters from proven heads. But, that doesn’t mean they aren’t improvements to better fit our modern shafting material and harder shooting bows.

No

The best broadheads are the ones you have confidence in. I have had success with many of them. I prefer a longer head like the woodsman. And I was very impressed with how the 200 grain Valkyrie blood eagle worked on 5 animals I was able to harvest in Africa last year. We are fortunate to have a lot of good choices today. From the old tried and true head like zwickey, bear, snuffers, and woodsman to some news ones like the VPA and Valkyrie. Try a few, tune them to your bow and keep them sharp. Good luck to all.

I think razorheads, Ace , and Zwickeys are the best heads made. Easy to sharpen with a file. The concave edge is the best for hunting for me anyway. The expensive single bevels are overrated.

I think razorheads, Ace , and Zwickeys are the best heads made. Easy to sharpen with a file. The concave edge is the best for hunting for me anyway. The expensive single bevels are overrated.

The best briadhead is a sharp broadhead . Now, imo a woodsman, Eskimo or a magnum head is all one needs to kill bigfame. I’m kind of partial to woodsman but I use the others and kill with them

Too. Just like anything out there, each person has a favorite and confidence in the head they use. It’s like the other post out here asking , what’s the best country song of all time? Good luck getting a consensus lol

I like ribtek I think they are cool, pretty cost effective, and I have good luck sharpening them. I like deltas too but not as easy to sharpen for me.

Hard to call them the best when there are solid cnc machined heads out there. I guess those in your favourite shape would be the best. Overkill in most uses imo, but if you like them buy them!

Magnus, ACE, Ribtek, Snuffer, Grizzly Instinct, VPA is nice but a bit pricey. I rarely buy heads just trade for them.

Lots of good stuff here. More dead... :-D this is something I have antoagonized others in camp with most of my hunting life. I don't shoot the most expensive bows, arrows, or heads. But when I come back to camp with a dead deer, is it less dead then those who use more expensive gear? NOPE. Now, with that being said I do belive there are some heads that will increase your chances of recovery when things don't go exactly as planned. When everything goes right there are LOTS of good choices, and some are fairly ecenomical (original Bear Greenies, Zwickey, Ace, Magnus, you get the point), but with a broadhead that finds the shoulder bone or similar situation not all are created equal. Last year I bought some old but unused Rocky Mountain Supremes, (basically a Thunerhead but bigger). The first deer I shot was a nice 10, the offside hit and burried into the point of the shoulder. The deer went down fairly quickly, but I do believe with a more solid head, it may have come on through and quit the buck a little bit faster. The Valkyrie, VPA, Cut throat... other higher grade steel broadheads, would most likely have had the same outcome, but maybe a slightly shorter track job. I did take two pigs and two deer last year with the Supremes and I believe they were all fully dead.

-Bones

The broadhead has to be matched to the bow poundage and arrow weight you are shooting. The best for one paramater may not be the best for another set of factors.

Sharp as you gan get it, two blade unless you get to 50# and above, cut on contact (edged blades to the tip, not cylinders or angled trokar whatzits). And a blade that comes out the offside of a deer (or whatever game) is a huge benefit for blood trailing. I favor heavy fir shafts and narrow heads to get that to happen.

Most importantly . . . you have to shoot a head and shaft that hits where you are aiming. And aiming well. No head will make up for bad shot placement. If your head is too valuable to practice with in field conditions, drop it and get a cheaper head you are willing to stump shoot or at least sand-pit shoot to make sure it flies true.

If a guy can't sharpen, or can't be bothered, then some heads are absolutely better.

This is subjective. Depends on what you want to hunt, your bow weight, your arrow, and whether you are going to sharpen the heads or want a reshaped head.

Ollie X2. It is subjective.

I don't know what is good, better, or best. Through the years I've used Bear (greenies) Razorheads, Bear (stainless) Razorheads, Ben Pearson Switchblades, Zwickey Deltas and Eskimos, Magnus Classics, Journeymen, Ribtek, Tusker Javelins, Hilbre, Ace Standards, to just name a few and they all worked when sharp. But I do like the Bear (greenie) Razorheads best because I can get them super sharp and they have never let me down for bowhunting. My last three bucks were killed with 2-Blade broadheads, 2021 (Magnus Classic), 2022 and 2023 (Bear (greenie) Razorheads.

Is that a bear greenie?

I killed him with a 1996 Bear Kodiak Takedown (65#@28") 2-Blade Magnus Classic and maple arrow if I remember correctly. Very good penetration.

As long as there very sharp

Dick Robertson Montana Falcon (65#@28"), maple arrow, Zwickey Delta broadhead. Complete pass through.

Sharp head and a great flying shaft. I like tapered/footed POC, or tapered Red Balua for the penetration "power". Good heavy weight or FOC is better.

80#@28" Martin Mountaineer Longbow, hickory arrows with Howard Hill broadheads. A razor sharp broadhead and putting it where it counts is what counts.

It's been stated before....it looks like Nemo is a killing machine

I don't know about being a killing machine, but I do love to bow hunt. I can't wait for fall and archery season to get here. I'm in the woods all the time, either scouting or bowhunting. One year I was bow hunting some game lands and my wife texted me this picture. "LOL" She thought it was funny because from October to the end of January I'm never home. "LOL".

I think a lot of advertising money gets spent to make folks believe that if they don't have this bow, this arrow, this head, or this stink killer you won't be a good hunter. history has proven none of it is necessary to be a good hunter.

If it ain"t Broke >>Don"t Fix it>>BEAR Razors With or without insert, Make Sure Shavin Sharp>>

I look at it this way….

The heads which have been around the longest are pretty similar in shape and dimensions… a thoughtful person might conclude that they are reflective of a consensus of opinion as to what works best, all-around.

The newer heads look different and are often made differently, as a reflection in the differences in power output in bows made 60 vs 40 vs 20 years ago and Today. Are the heads shorter and mechanically disadvantaged compared to the Classics? Yes, but they can afford to be. Some might even argue that they NEED to be, because of planing at high velocities. Are they stronger and tougher? Yes, because they kinda need to be.

So the new ones may have some “advantages” which do not apply and may even be (in the case of short, stubby blades) a liability for those of us shooting “low output” bows like a #45-#50 recurve.

One bet I’d be willing to make is that I don’t “need” a broadhead to be any stronger than my most powerful bow can break when hitting a hard bone…

There are over 5000 broadheads listed in the ABCC master list how many of those do you suppose are "good, better, best"???

Get after them raghorn. Jed, I have no idea about the premium heads.. but if you're hunting our North American game, you're good to go with any of the proven long time established heads. The history is there eh? :)

"When it comes to life, death, and possible suffering, razor sharp time proven sturdy heads and precise placement trumps the latest- greatest, sales pitches, biases, premium prices and justifications."

Jeff Durnell-

Great pictures as usual Nem

How can I top this well written fact:

"When it comes to life, death, and possible suffering, razor sharp time proven sturdy heads and precise placement trumps the latest- greatest, sales pitches, biases, premium prices and justifications." Jeff Durnell-

The reason I asked this question is this: occasionally I hear someone say that a single bevel head made from " superior steel" will somehow make a marginal shot work out. I have heard this said but have yet to speak with someone who has experienced it.

1968

2023

Moses/Heston weighs in.

Lol Jim!

There are so many Broadheads out there. Collectors chime in on how many? 2 blade, multiple blade, heaven forbid expandables and Hybrid Broadheads. Single Bevel, double bevel, then the Flight, Edge Retention, Ferrule Strength, Cut Size, Diameter vs. Total Cut, Materials, Blade Thickness, Chisel Tips vs. Cut-On-Contact Tips,etc. Is there such a thing as good, better and best broadhead? YES. Sales have to be good for a Broadhead to stay on the market for years. That would be something to look at, still in existance all these years. Tried and True? But most folks want new designs when they are hot on the Market. Bottom line for me is 2 blade Ace, Zwickie, Bear, Landsharks. I have had a fling with those $30 heads in the past but that is like going out for fine dining in the woods.

The head the was good enough for Fred Bear before he started to make his own hunting heads was the Black Diamond. I have killed many deer, not as many as Nemo, but many deer and a bear with the Black diamond 2 blade. I can get it super sharp. But as mentioned shot placement trumps everything.

Most the of time now I use one of my stone points. I can edge chip them sharp enough to hurt you, lol.

Good one Supernaut! It’s written in stone.

Supernaut (Jim), Funny but true. A sharp broadhead and good shot placement.

Jon Stewart, I read somewhere that a knapped edge is the sharpest edge there is.

PROPERLY knapped, Jed! When stone or glass flakes off cleanly, the edge basically comes through between the crystals, or maybe even molecules.., extremely fine edges compared to grinding away steel using the edges of other crystals….

I doubt that I could knap a satisfactory edge onto a head in an afternoon; looks like Keefers has proven thst it’s a skill which can be learned fairly quickly if pursued with great enthusiasm (and probably some good, underlying manual skills/dexterity…

So yeah, I tend to get cross with people who act like stone heads are somehow intrinsically inferior…. Steel heads caught on because they work Well Enough and are cheap and easy to make/resharpen, not because they’re actually “better” in s as n absolute sense….

Just use common sense. As stated above, sharp head and placement are what kills cleanly. Quality and hardness of the steel helps to preserve the edge of the broadhead as it cuts passing through the animal. Zwickey, STOS, and Magnus have always worked for me.

Jed said, "The reason I asked this question is this: occasionally I hear someone say that a single bevel head made from " superior steel" will somehow make a marginal shot work out. I have heard this said but have yet to speak with someone who has experienced it".

Depends on where the marginal shot is. According to Ashby's research, a single bevel head is better at splitting bone than a double bevel head. Thus, a double bevel tipped arrow may be stopped by a marginal hit on bone, whereas the single bevel might break it and penetrate further into a lethal area.

But not all single bevel heads are created equal. Some are short and stubby with poor mechanical advantage, some are longer with better mechanical advantage. Some have good steel, some don't. Some are thicker, some thinner. Same can be said for double bevel heads, of course.

Long story short. There are some very good heads that have stood the test of time that are moderately priced, but getting more expensive all along. And there are a lot of newer heads, some moderately priced, and some high priced, but high price alone certainly doesn't make them premium heads.

The sharpest instrument for cutting is obsidian. It was even used during certain eye surgeries.

I am a mediocre flint knapper at best but every once in awhile I get one that is sharp enough to hunt and kill a deer with.

Remember a properly shot arrow with a tapered field point will kill a deer.

Jon Stewart, anything is possible. That said I have shot a still kicking buck whitetail deer with a 2117 Easton arrow tipped with a tapered field point from a 50-poundPSE Elite compound bow from a distance of about TEN feet. The field tip impacted a rib and bounced off. So although anything is possible, I personal would not shoot anything tougher than a cottontail rabbit with a field tipped arrow. I consider this field tip for deer an urban legend, as I know better.

Well, I once had a 140 grain bullet ricochet off the rib of a whitetail at not a lot MORE than 10 feet, so is the 24karat reputation of the 7-08 cartridge yet ANOTHER “urban legend”?? Another time I had a .535 RB flatten on the rib of a big, cow Elk and veer off into the paunch…. So is a 230-grain bullet at 1800 fps no good, either??

Or is it maybe that ribs are flexible and they can absorb a pretty good hit when all the stars are aligned?? Maybe “properly shot” means that it’s best to slide between the ribs?

But then again, as we all know, it has been non-scientifically demonstrated right here that….. you cannot kill a dead cow with a field point…

After I got, shot and hunted with a Strickland single bevel, I gave all my others away. That was a lot of different brands.

Corax_latrans, so you have killed a deer with a field point? I think not.

Why not? Happens now and then based on reports. Pneumothorax is possible with a pass through double lung hit.

I don't see how anyone actually has the experience of enough shots with enough heads to come to a conclusion. I should be relatively easy to accumulate failures with enough gimmicky heads. But to actually know a bear razorhead, vs a Grizz, that would be harder. It would depend on the game saught. How good one was at sharpening, or the factory. Some heads had uncooperative steels, and I very nearly sharped for a living it is pretty much the starting point for everything I do in life. But some heads will not cooperate with certain stones or papers, files, etc..

I am not convinced that the new super heads are better than the better old heads, but at this point the prices are pretty high either way. The development process seems to have been take a non machined head, and copy it's features in a machined format, while changing quite a few of the dimensions. They seem to be a shot in a dark. Of course they will work.

I became convinced that one thing I wanted to do was shoot a lot more broadheads than I previously did shoot. And one part of that was to find cheap broadheads of good quality in large volume. What I found was NOS Ribtech from OZ, I got about 200 of them. Mostly in the midweight, which was not my preference, but there are workaround. This makes it possible to really up the amount of braodhead stump shooting I do. I think this is more important than particular features of different heads that probably can't be effectively measured. However, Grizz was my fabourite going back, and Ribtech give me pause in comparison. However, I only have whitetails for the most part, so I don't think it will mater much.

I used to be one of the few people around here that spoke up for 2 blades, but after the Natal study, and the popularity of single bevels that complication seemed to disappear. When I started in the late 70s 4 blades where popular in the press, 3 blades, and now 2. But set aside anything more than 2 blades, and it doesn't mater all that much on medium game. I would like to try a 3 blade with single bevels, I think that has a lot of potential, but it will take another life.

Supernaut....I was laughing so hard I fell out of my chair.

“… so you have killed a deer with a field point? I think not.”

No, because it is illegal to even attempt it.

But seeing as you’re in the mood for an “Ask a Stupid Question” contest, how would you like to volunteer to be shot in the ribs (with a field point, naturally) shot from a #40 recurve?? That’s the legal minimum here where I live, so I’m sure you’d be comfortable….

“ I don't see how anyone actually has the experience of enough shots with enough heads to come to a conclusion. ”

Nice to have some sanity in the house….

Fortunately, we humans have been throwing pointy sticks at tasty creatures for about 60 or 70 thousand years, which, to put it into context, means that Archery literally predates Adam, at least according to the genetic analysis searching for our common ancestors….

So none of us are on the hook for “proving” ANYTHING, personally…. We have plenty of data, literally preserved in stone, and much more recently, we’ve acquired an understanding of Physics which allows us to explain the findings. Longer, slimmer heads penetrate better because they have a mechanical advantage; Journeyman style heads and Tanto tips are sturdier on impact because there is more blade material up front, so they don’t bend when hitting something that would probably curl a needle- sharp tip.

So all of the Classic head designs reflect 70,000 years worth of R&D in an industry where the cost of failure was watching your children die of starvation…. How much more testing do you think we need to do??

I can think of VERY few animals that I've killed that I hit EXACTLY where I wanted. Either I failed to execute or they moved... or both. So... for me - I have to make the assumption that despite practicing daily... I suck... and along with my abysmal shooting... the animal will get a vote on game day.

So for me - I don't compromise on my broadheads... because I'm most likely going to need them to bail me out of a less-than-perfect hit.

Corax said:But seeing as you’re in the mood for an “Ask a Stupid Question” contest, how would you like to volunteer to be shot in the ribs (with a field point, naturally) shot from a #40 recurve?? That’s the legal minimum here where I live, so I’m sure you’d be comfortable…. Corax you might be crossing some lines here. You have been the Chuck Norris of the keyboard wolf lately. Everything alright?

Jarhead, what head do you choose? And have you experienced the shoulder shot with your head of choice?

Was a VPA die hard for a long time. Switching to Day 6 this year. I love the VPA 3 blade but no matter what I try... and I've tried a LOT... I just can't get them as sharp as I can a 2 blade. BUT I prefer 3 blades over 2 for blood trail. So... Day 6 seems like a reasonable compromise. They fly really well and I can get them wicked sharp... just need fall to get here.

I hit a buck one time in the scapula (shoulder) with a Zwicky and lost him. That's the only one I can remember.

This thread got be wondering and I looked through the offerings Vpa had. Man. It looks like a bunch of short stubby stuff for compounds. While I am all for the wheels boys shooting skid points, they don’t have many pleasing shapes for trad. If I wanted the “the best” for a trad bow I would use glue on cutthroats. Single bevel. Or reshape them to double.

Close to 3 to 1 ratio. Hard steel, no lams or cutouts or slots or rough spots. That’s my idea of the best trad broadhead for most people.

If you get into enough poundage/efficiently to justify wider convex heads or 3 blades then I would still look for the same things but a different shape.

Those things are: good angle of attack. No stumpy wide tip or or dull tip blades. A good smooth arrow head, no cut outs or slits milled into for weight reduction. You want all the steel you can get and a smooth pass through. A really strong way to attach it to the arrow. This is the weak point for screw in heads. I would rather have a solid glue on I to a steel adapter. That way if the screw post breaks or bends I still have the head.

I think the footing/insert is just an important for a hunting rig when you are talking about marginal bone shots. I would take a smaller head like a z Eskimo in a brass insert with an aluminum footing on the arrow over a big chunk broadhead in a light weight 11 grain aluminum insert any day. Why?? Because that is where I have seen points of failure in real life shooting.

“ I hit a buck one time in the scapula (shoulder) with a [it really doesn’t matter which] and lost him. “

That’s the kicker, though, right? When you don’t get to do the post-mortem, you don’t know exactly what you hit, what stopped your arrow, whether the head remained in good condition or if it curled up like a party horn… So you don’t know if a 3:1 would have slipped through, or if you really needed to smash a big hole through the bone with a chisel-tip, or if it wouldn’t have mattered if you’d only been shooting #10 heavier, or if the real problem is that the scapula just slid across the ribs for a “soft” catch, and nothing short of a #70 compound could have changed the outcome, regardless of the BH you used.

When Perfection is not an option, it’s always good thinking to play the odds…. ;)

I’ll listen to the guys like Nemo, Sawtooth, Supernaut, Warden 605, Iowa Cedarshooter and many others that are successful. If it works for them the broadheads must be good. Good proven heads like Bear Razorheads, the old Magnus I and II, Ace Standard, Eclipse 2 blade, Zwicky Eskimos and Deltas have killed many many big game animals. I’ll be using Eclipse 145 grain 2 blades this year. I’m sure there are many other good broadheads out there if you can afford them. LOL

A field point can kill a deer, no I haven't done it. Chuck Adams told of a broadhead failure where the head had replaceable blades you know the kind. Anyway at impact the blades peeled off onto the ground leaving what was essentially a field point to sail on through the lungs. He recovered the deer.

Greenstyk, I tend to agree with you. I would however still like to hear from someone who has experienced a hard shoulder hit with a single bevel.

Jed I’ve had three hard shoulder hits with double bevels that didn’t turn out well. I’ve never used a single bevel broadhead so I can’t say how they perform. One of those three was a good buck. If a quality single bevel would penetrate through the shoulder bone then they certainly would be worth using.

Just curious…. How many deer does one person have to kill in order to validate 70,000 years of success as the world’s #1 military and hunting implement? (Asking for a friend).

@Jed — the problem with shoulder blades is that they are so mobile. If you hit a thicker portion of it — especially at an angle — it will move; more or less, depending on the load and muscular tension in the muscles which are attached to it.

Good news/bad news is the thicker portions of that bone don’t cover much/any of the vitals at normal archery shot angles, so the animal may end up with a better chance of survival if the head stops sooner, rather than later. If you happen to strike the bone pretty near perpendicular, most of the scap is much thinner than a rib. No idea if that pliability of it makes it harder to penetrate than something stiff enough to really break clean or shatter - and hope never to find out. Not first-hand anyway….

Corax, what I'm looking for is a first hand account of a single bevel breaking through shoulder bone. My understanding of the single bevel is the ability to penetrate through thick should bone and still make the kill.

If you are shooting woodies then not a big deal. But the screw in post is a weakness for carbon arrow shooters. I think beefing that union from head to arrow up is more important than a really top notch 1 piece steel head on a threaded post is.

Jed Gitchel,

Some links you might find interesting:

https://tradbow.com/forums/topic/little- blackie-takes-a-dirt-nap/

https://tradbow.com/forums/topic/kingwould be-tuffhead/

https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/single -bevel-shoulder-blade-success.145955/

Pics are still up; kingwould usually did extensive post shot autopsies including photos. The rokslide thread has deer shoulder blade pics.

Hope the they work- my link-fu sucks.

Here is a teaser from blackie takes a dirt nap: hog humerus split by Tuffhead.

I have a modest broadhead collection of glue-on heads from the 1940's to present. There are some HORRIBLE designs in the past and present. As many have said above: it's all about shot placement. For bows under 50" at your draw length a double-edge cut- on-contact head, well sharpened, is a good choice. If you shoot higher poundages, maybe consider three-edge cut-on-contact; alsdo properly sharpened. Though I have hunted double-edge up to 65# (650 gr shaft weight) and they work very well and pass completely through broadsides. Avoid moving parts or replaceable blades. And, when in doubt, keep the width around 1" to 1-1/8".

My opinions, of course. I'd rather have a hole on each side instead of a larger hole only on one side. The 125 gr STOS was outstanding for that. Currently I'm hunting a three- edge Mowoc Dot from 1960. Just for the nostalgia . . . mostly. Larry Whiffen Jr. found a bunch and I got 36 for a terriffic price.

Anyone that says archery predates Adam, must be reading from a different Bible than I do.

Bear with me, Jed — do you mean the thick portion of the scapula (which is the only bone in “the shoulder”, or do you mean the humerus, which is upper Arm (or foreleg, if you prefer…). What most hunters mean when they say “shoulder” is actually Triceps.

Of course, there’s not much vital behind a humerus, either, but because it’s hard bone, it will shatter and as I said, I don’t know how that affects penetration compared to the thinner portions of a scapula.

Kingwouldbe is one of the guys who shot heavy hogs with heavy equipment and yes, he swore by single-bevel heads. He did post a lot of pics of hogs he recovered, but like anyone else, he never performed a post-mortem on anything that he never recovered… ;)

I shot a eight point that had a rage broadhead under the skin on both front shoulders. I have no idea the angle of the shot of course but no confidence in that head considering it was most likely shot out of a compound.

"...he never performed a post-mortem on anything that he never recovered… ;) "

The sheer brilliance of this observation leaves me almost speechless.

Almost.

Wait for it....

;)

God, you’re really desperate, aren’t you? Joke’s on you.

There is only one joke, and it's not Snow Crow

Ttt,

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