Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Power taper tool question

Messages posted to thread:
Dan In MI 01-Apr-24
fdp 01-Apr-24
bentstick54 01-Apr-24
smrobertson 01-Apr-24
Zbone 01-Apr-24
fdp 01-Apr-24
arlone 01-Apr-24
Scoop 01-Apr-24
dnovo 01-Apr-24
M60gunner 01-Apr-24
Zbone 01-Apr-24
JusPassin 02-Apr-24
fdp 02-Apr-24
Eric Krewson 02-Apr-24
fdp 02-Apr-24
bentstick54 02-Apr-24
Rooty 02-Apr-24
Kelly 02-Apr-24
Zbone 02-Apr-24
Eric Krewson 03-Apr-24
Dan In MI 03-Apr-24
From: Dan In MI
Date: 01-Apr-24




A question for those of you that use a power taper tool.

Do you do all the tips, or nocks, and then do the other end?

Or do do you one shaft at a time swapping ends and then moving on to the next shaft?

From: fdp
Date: 01-Apr-24




I do all of one or the other and then do the other end.

From: bentstick54
Date: 01-Apr-24




I do all 1 end then the other.

From: smrobertson
Date: 01-Apr-24




fdp X2. Easier for me to concentrate doing nock tapers first, then point tapers.

From: Zbone
Date: 01-Apr-24




What power taper tool you guys have?

From: fdp
Date: 01-Apr-24




Mine is made from a disc sander.

From: arlone Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 01-Apr-24




I do nock ends on all and then point ends. I have "Woodchuck"tool I bought from classifieds here.

From: Scoop Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 01-Apr-24




My taper tool is the Woodchuck and I like taking a single shaft and do the point taper first and then flipping it and do the nock taper. It then goes into the finished tube to be wiped down and then stained, left several days, and sealed.

Two to four dozen is the usual amount, after all have been straightened. From the comments, maybe I didn’t read the instructions right... :)

From: dnovo Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 01-Apr-24




I taper the nock ends, straighten, stain and seal the shafts as I want. Then cut to length and taper the point end.

From: M60gunner
Date: 01-Apr-24




I have one of those gizmos that goes in a drill motor. So it one end or the other usually the point end first because I use a wide blade Zwickey to spin them to check for straightness. No, I haven’t cut them yet. Guess I could but that’s not on my mind at that stage of build.

From: Zbone
Date: 01-Apr-24

Zbone's embedded Photo



Anybody ever build a jig for a sander?

From: JusPassin
Date: 02-Apr-24




I've been using a 10 inch sanding disk on my table saw for many years. Fast and efficient.

From: fdp
Date: 02-Apr-24




Been using a jig on a disc sander for many years.

From: Eric Krewson
Date: 02-Apr-24

Eric Krewson's embedded Photo



Same here, belt sander jig. I do all the nocks, stain, finish, crest and fletch my arrows then do the points and install field points or broadheads.

From: fdp
Date: 02-Apr-24




Eric actually posted the best description of how to adjust your guide to get good tapers that I have seen written down. I can't find it though.

From: bentstick54
Date: 02-Apr-24




I have a 10” sanding disc for my table saw and use a jig similar to Zbones.

From: Rooty
Date: 02-Apr-24




I've tried all or most of sanding disc type. The Perfect Taper tool is what works for me. Nocks first as I then tail taper. Last is point taper.

From: Kelly
Date: 02-Apr-24




Great jig, Zbone!

Those stops are vital for getting uniform tapers.

From: Zbone
Date: 02-Apr-24




Yeah the stops would make it work good I would think... Unfortunately it was not my design, I just came across the photo years ago and when I came across it saved it to try to construct later but have never got around to it... Unfortunately I didn't save the link to the photo...

From: Eric Krewson
Date: 03-Apr-24




I don't use stops, after tapering a gazillion arrows, I can eyeball it to be very close, a 1/16" or so difference isn't going to matter.

From: Dan In MI
Date: 03-Apr-24




Thanks guys. You've answered a bunch of questions. I have a feeling I am being a little too particular.





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