Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


DAS adjustable side plate.

Messages posted to thread:
Jimmyjumpup 06-Feb-24
1buckurout 06-Feb-24
1buckurout 06-Feb-24
Vaquero 45 06-Feb-24
Rooty 06-Feb-24
Phil Magistro 06-Feb-24
Dan In MI 06-Feb-24
1buckurout 06-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 06-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 06-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 06-Feb-24
selstickbow 06-Feb-24
Phil Magistro 06-Feb-24
Phil Magistro 06-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 06-Feb-24
Phil Magistro 06-Feb-24
sheepdogreno 07-Feb-24
Dan In MI 07-Feb-24
selstickbow 07-Feb-24
Phil Magistro 07-Feb-24
selstickbow 07-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 07-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 07-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 07-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 07-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 07-Feb-24
selstickbow 07-Feb-24
Phil Magistro 07-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 07-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 08-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 08-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 08-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 08-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 08-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 08-Feb-24
Phil Magistro 08-Feb-24
Rooty 08-Feb-24
Rooty 08-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 08-Feb-24
Phil Magistro 08-Feb-24
fdp 08-Feb-24
Babysaph 08-Feb-24
Babysaph 08-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 08-Feb-24
Phil Magistro 08-Feb-24
Babysaph 09-Feb-24
selstickbow 09-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 11-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 11-Feb-24
Phil Magistro 11-Feb-24
Rooty 11-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 11-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 11-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 11-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 11-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 11-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 11-Feb-24
Babysaph 11-Feb-24
selstickbow 11-Feb-24
Rick Barbee 11-Feb-24
Babysaph 11-Feb-24
1buckurout 11-Feb-24
Jimmyjumpup 12-Feb-24
From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 06-Feb-24




So I am using an old DAS riser with ILF limbs of different weights I have. I just changed to

the bushings in the Ilf Limbs. I was wanting to play with an adjustable rest to accommodate different arrows need for the different poundage limbs I will need to progress through while I am healing from cervical disk replacement surgery. anyone have a cheap fix for this? I can not find that little round rest that came with the bow. I was wondering if anyone has tried just a bolt with 2 nuts on the backside of the bow to tighten it after the adjustment has been made. Wanted a cheap fix that works because this will just be temp until I can shoot my old bow.

From: 1buckurout
Date: 06-Feb-24

1buckurout's embedded Photo



Are you talking about that adjustable side plate DAS used or a rest?

CD Archery sent a bolt and nut with all their bows as an ajustable side plate.

I've been using them for years of my bows. You can get the flathead bolts and nut at your local hardware.

From: 1buckurout
Date: 06-Feb-24

1buckurout's embedded Photo



Oh... and the bolt is 5/16 x 24.

Here's how I've set my bows up with my homemade shelf bump.

From: Vaquero 45
Date: 06-Feb-24




That nut and bolt among some circle's has been referred to at times as the poor man's accutune . From my experience they work great . If your a hump shooter .

From: Rooty
Date: 06-Feb-24




Vpa has some in accessories. Cheap

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 06-Feb-24

Phil Magistro's embedded Photo



McMasters sells both the flat head bolts and the set screw used for locking. It's a great, flexible rest. I use velcro on the hump and the bolt head.

JR - email me please. [email protected]

From: Dan In MI
Date: 06-Feb-24




McMaster also sell nylon tipped set screws the work great!

From: 1buckurout
Date: 06-Feb-24

1buckurout's embedded Photo



Cost you about a dollar at your local hardware store Dr. J.R.

Now I know that appeals to you

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 06-Feb-24




Yep Jimmy that is what I am talking about. I sold a lot of bows but kept that one. I love that DAS bow. I shot it well and used it the same way for shoulder rehab. I will go the cheap way like you suggested. I have limbs for it that I kept from the first shoulder surgery of 25,35,40,45,50. lbs I am at 35 now. didn't use the 25 lb ones but I can move to the 40 limbs in 2 weeks. I just wanted to be able to use as many of the arrows I have as I can by adjusting the side plate and length of arrows and point weight to get me through this rehab. Thanks for all the info. I should have know you would know. LOL. Heading to hardware store tomorrow.

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 06-Feb-24




That is what I am after Phil. Thanks.

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 06-Feb-24




What is McMaster's?

From: selstickbow
Date: 06-Feb-24




I sometimes stick a rubber O-ring or plastic washer 'tween riser and lock nut, on back side....protects riser a bit from scarring.

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 06-Feb-24




Email me your address and I’ll send you a bolt and set screw. [email protected]

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 06-Feb-24




Dan, the nylon tipped screws don’t work well on a DAS unless you build up the hump.

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 06-Feb-24




Thanks so much buddy. I really appreciate it. I forgot how well this DAS bow shoots. I have one of the older ones. Bought it years ago from 3 rivers. I don't even know the model of it. Now they have names and models.. I like the setup you and Jimmy have on your bows. I like the DAS system better than the ILF for some reason. For me it is quieter.

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 06-Feb-24




It is quieter. ILF can be quiet but DAS is made to be quiet. Don’t know what limbs you have but, since your riser is an older one, you should check to make sure the limb butts aren’t hitting the riser below the limb bolt. On older DAS risers that is one of the few places where it can get noisy. Sanding a bit off the limb butt is easy. Then dab some super glue on the exposed area to seal it.

From: sheepdogreno
Date: 07-Feb-24




You can use the flat head and set screw or just get a bolt that’s a little bit longer than the width of your hole and put a nut on the backside. Not the prettiest but super functional and if you’re like me you could go dig in the garage and probably muster it all up fo free!

From: Dan In MI
Date: 07-Feb-24

Dan In MI's embedded Photo



Wrap the screw with borderline too much teflon tape and it will be self locking with no nut on the opposite side.

You may be right Phil, I have a flipper type rest on mine. I know when I showed Jim Belcher the set screw he made it standard on his bows. I've added a pic for those that may be interested.

From: selstickbow
Date: 07-Feb-24

selstickbow's embedded Photo



some of my stuff. I've used some of the plastic screw-and-socket sets.....they got through riser and screw together snugly. can washer-shim it out it out a bit for centershot adjustments. threads not right, ones I found, BUT buy the ones JUST SMALLER than 5/16 and it doesn't matter....since they are plastic. snugged up tight, it works well.

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 07-Feb-24

Phil Magistro's embedded Photo



Here is what I use. Got them from McMasters Carr.

From: selstickbow
Date: 07-Feb-24




I have those too PHIL but the taper bothers me on some risers, as it stops short of going IN riser far enough, so I have turned them down some to shorten the taper. I've tended more recently to just use a hex-head BOLT and grind the head down real thin.....to allow more centershot adjustment. But that short bolt shank is nice, with a ALLEN set screw.

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 07-Feb-24




I don't care what it looks like if it works. Here I was trying to keep archery simple and am messing with this. I must say though that this makes tuning a bow a lot easier so I guess that is simpler. Plus it is fun to mess with. Just trying to get back in the game. You should see my handle. It looks like it came over on the Arc. But man what a handle. I have killed a lot of deer with it.

From: Rick Barbee
Date: 07-Feb-24




I just use 5/16 x 24 threaded brass all thread.

Cut it to the length I need for the main bolt, and a shorter locking bolt, and dremel a slot in it for a flat blade screwdriver.

Rick

From: Rick Barbee
Date: 07-Feb-24

Rick Barbee's embedded Photo



From: Rick Barbee
Date: 07-Feb-24

Rick Barbee's embedded Photo



From: Rick Barbee
Date: 07-Feb-24




Oh, and I glue a soft material on the rest end of the main bolt.

Rick

From: selstickbow
Date: 07-Feb-24




I posted some poor pictures on JR's OTHER thread ? "DAS shelf dilemma" from a thread on Tradtalk on it.

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 07-Feb-24

Phil Magistro's embedded Photo



I’ve tried several things like nylon tipped screws and other bolts but it doesn’t seem that David Souza took into account using the plunger hole while shooting from the shelf. He made a side plate that attached with a screw through the plunger hole.

You can see the issue in the photo. The shelf needs to be raised slightly to have a nylon or brass bolt/screw meet the arrow.

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 07-Feb-24




That right there would be high enough for me. That looks good

From: Rick Barbee
Date: 08-Feb-24




What size/diameter arrows you using ?

Build the shelf up so it holds that size shaft at center of the berger button hole, then just use the 5/16 X 24 bolt with a soft tip as the strike plate.

I do it all the time. You'll be good to go.

Rick

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 08-Feb-24




Thanks for the info. I truly appreciate it

From: Rick Barbee
Date: 08-Feb-24

Rick Barbee's embedded Photo



From: Rick Barbee
Date: 08-Feb-24

Rick Barbee's embedded Photo



From: Rick Barbee
Date: 08-Feb-24

Rick Barbee's embedded Photo



From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 08-Feb-24




Well I got a button the with the proper requirements that Phil sent me and it will not screw into the hole. Appears big. I don't understand it. It will not go in either side. Nothing has been in the hole. It has been covered with a Bear Weatherrest since I had it. My bow is one of the original ones offered by 3 Rivers. Very Frustrating

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 08-Feb-24




The thread is a standard 5/16 x 24 on all DAS risers and all other risers with a cushion plunger hole. Can you post a photo of thee bow? Maybe there's something blocking the threads.

From: Rooty
Date: 08-Feb-24




I have a tap that I use often.

From: Rooty
Date: 08-Feb-24

Rooty's embedded Photo



From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 08-Feb-24




I could retap it but then nothing archery related would fit in there. I guess I could us a bolt or something. It baffles me. I may just try to start a bolt in there with a socket and see if it goes down after it starts. What do I have to lose?

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 08-Feb-24




You won’t retap it just run a 5/16. X 24 tap in there to clean up the threads. It’s already a 5/16 x 24 thread, just fouled or dirty.

From: fdp
Date: 08-Feb-24




Before I forced a bolt in and potentially messed up the threads completely I'd take it to a good hardware store and gauge the hole and the threads.

From: Babysaph Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 08-Feb-24




Yea that’s what I meant I’m going to try that

From: Babysaph Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 08-Feb-24




I tried that fdp. Nothing worked so I am sure it is 5/16 x24 and must have something in there like Phil said. Imma get a cross now and be done with it lol

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 08-Feb-24




I am going to get a tap and try it. If it don't work it will be in the classifieds cheap

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 08-Feb-24




You are the original owner of the bow. If you didn’t do anything to that hole I guarantee it is the size I said. Running a tap in there will fix your problem. If not I’ll give you $20 for it since it’s damaged. :)

From: Babysaph Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 09-Feb-24




I agree Philip going to have a guy that knows what he is doing run a tap through it. I’ll Let you know. Once I resize the pic I’ll put it in here. It’s an old bow but I love it.

From: selstickbow
Date: 09-Feb-24




yeh me too, an old DAS guy here, I'd like to see it too. Good job JR

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 11-Feb-24




Well got the hole cleaned out with a tap. Not sure why it was buggered up. Now I can get the lil bolt in it. I also got a NAP rest to try in it for some adjustability. As soon as I learn how to resize pics I will send some. My buddies will boohoo me off the course shooting an adjustable rest. Lol. Thanks for all the help guys

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 11-Feb-24




Well got the hole cleaned out with a tap. Not sure why it was buggered up. Now I can get the lil bolt in it. I also got a NAP rest to try in it for some adjustability. As soon as I learn how to resize pics I will send some. My buddies will boohoo me off the course shooting an adjustable rest. Lol. Thanks for all the help guys

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 11-Feb-24

Phil Magistro's embedded Photo



The NAP rest can be tricky on the DAS. You may need to modify it to get the arrow close to center. The original fits better than the flipper model but will still push the arrow too far left unless modified.

From: Rooty
Date: 11-Feb-24




Pat Norris springy's work well on them.

From: Rick Barbee
Date: 11-Feb-24




What Phil said.

That DAS isn't cut far enough past center to use a "Center Flipper", unless you modify the head to get it in farther.

A stick on flipper, with your bolt through the hole for center shot adjustment will be easier for you to work with.

https://www.newarchery.com/product/flipper-rest-ii/

Rick

From: Rick Barbee
Date: 11-Feb-24




Oh, and P.S.

Tell your buddies on the course to go pee up a rope. :-)

Rick

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 11-Feb-24




You guys are right. This has been an ordeal. LOL. Especially for me as this is all new to me. The most advanced I got was a Bear Weatherrest.

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 11-Feb-24




Will I be able to get the bolt through the hole with that rest? Looks like some of the material may cover the hole. I guess I can cut it down.

From: Rick Barbee
Date: 11-Feb-24

Rick Barbee's embedded Photo



From: Rick Barbee
Date: 11-Feb-24




Put your bolt in the hole, and let is stick through a little.

Then see where the rest height needs to be for the bolt to adequately accommodate the shaft. Mark/outline the rest at that spot, then stick it on inside the outline.

Rick

From: Babysaph Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 11-Feb-24

Babysaph's embedded Photo



Got it I don’t thing there will be enough room for that rest. I will probably just build up the rest .

From: selstickbow
Date: 11-Feb-24

selstickbow's embedded Photo



looks good JR. blow up my picture a little and see, I just put a rubber DOT on the shelf bump, it's about 3/10" thick, guessing. glued on with Barge cement and taped it down, to dry 24 hours.

From: Rick Barbee
Date: 11-Feb-24




Ya never needed nothing cept the bolt. :-)

Rick

From: Babysaph Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 11-Feb-24




Yep just the bolt

From: 1buckurout
Date: 11-Feb-24




Now you can put a piece of leather, felt, velcro, etc. on that hump with double-sided tape or contact cement and your good to go.

From: Jimmyjumpup Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 12-Feb-24




Just did that Jimmy. Now to pick an arrow





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