Back in June if you remember the thread, I posted when I got back from Florida, where my nephew gave me a couple of old Bear recurves, one bow had never been finished. These bow were seconds that Frank Scott had originally given to my nephew, back in the 80's or early 90's.

Anyway, I am finally getting around to wanted to finish and shoot these bows. The Kodiak just needed an arrow rest and string, and it shoots great.

The second one, a Super Kodiak, has some holes drilled in it, which I am tempted to just plug, and one hole is plugged already. The bow has no finish on it. So, I think I will plug the remaining holes and then finish with something.

I just want to DIY, not send it out for any speical coating or anything. I considered just camo paint. I also considered using boiled linseed oil on it, or a matt polyurethane. I am not worried about seeing the plugged holes if I go clear.

So, suggestions, please.

Another view or two.

The glass needs something, also.

Wipe on poly is as easy as it gets.

fdp, So, you are saying just wipe on a few coats of clear, polyurethane?

Will that work for the face and back of the glass, also?

Tru Oil. Wipe it on. That's it

That's what I'm saying. I usually do abput 4 coats. Glass, wood and all.

I'm spraying Helmsman satin spar on a bow right now... Seems to be working quite good... Have 2 coats on. One or two more should do it..Have a trigger gun on the top of the rattle can spray Helmsman.. Works way better than trying to push the button down with your finger...

True oil

TruOil without a doubt.

I think the wipe on poly is the easiest. Looks like those holes were drilled for quiver inserts that were never installed.

MP

Give them a sanding and cleaning, then use whatever suits your fancy. I used some Minwax clear lacquer on a 1960 Howatt that dried in no time and came out really nice. I'm done with wipe on. It takes too long and is too easy to contaminate with dust and lint.

Mpdh, Yes, I believe the hole that is already plugged was done at the factory by someone and then the other two drilled, and at that point someone, an inspector or whoever, rejected it as a second. Actually, if I remember correctly, I believe my nephew said that one of those bows he gave me, was actually pulled out of the dumpster by Frank Scott and saved for my nephew.

Bear Archery might have been a good place to be a dumpster diver. (:

Ok, well, it sounds like I several options.

For the glass I would put at least 2 coats of ZAP Finishing resin. It stays flexible. Sand with 600 w/d. Then 2 coats of Helmsman Spar Urathane from minwax.

VHT clear wheel paint. It’s the best I’ve used. Comes in matte too.

"VHT clear wheel paint"

Hmmm, stykzz got any pix done with this finish? Thanks...

Like mentioned above, I’ve finished many home made bows with wipe on Polly, I’ve even used water based due to the low odor.

I’m not sure if tru oil will be satisfactory on the glass. I finish my muzzle loader stocks with tru oil and it does a fantastic job…just not sure how it will do on glass.

Here is the rattle can finish I use.

I got good results and it was easy for a novice like myself to use.

The little red square on the tip allows you to control the spray pattern. This eliminated any "spitting or sputtering' out of the can. A nice feature for a novice like myself.

Good enough for this guy and the deer don't seem to mind either.

Best of luck in whatever finish you decide on and post some pics of your progress please.

I learned about VHT from Mike Mercerdy at Maddog bows. It’s compatible with oily exotics so you don’t have to seal like you do with urethane products. I do fill the grain with ca glue just because I like the more finished look.

To be clear I TruOuil the wood not the glass.

I am thinking about using that Minwax Poly in the spray can. I am thinking I will fill the holes with JB weld, sand the bow a little, hang it up in my shop and rattle can it with the Minwax. Either that or the wipe on, and I already have a partial gallon of that.

I asked JD Berry about refinishing a Morning Star a few years ago. He suggested I just use Tru Oil.

Years ago when I was building my own bows I used spray can poly from True Value Ace Hardware. It was rated Exterior. I'd spray a couple coats of high gloss because it's a harder finish. Then several coats of semi gloss. It's held up really well for me. It was the only rattle can poly that was exterior rated then.

Minwax spray on X2.

I seal with Marine epoxy and sand. The I spray Helmsman indoor/outdoor spar varnish urethane. Satin. JF

Thanks stykzz...

Helmsman also has a water base spar varnish product that is user friendly and holds up well....

not all these finishes are 100% waterproof,, i use it on my turkey calls , and when they get water on them , i leaves water spots on the finish

Marine epoxy with varnish on top too?

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