Simple question. If you were going to buy a new bow to use for 3d what would you get and why? Parameters, not over 64 inches long or 40 pounds draw weight. Preferably recurve, but maybe longbow for good reasons.

Let's hear your thoughts....

For very little money, and a decent shooting bow with a low stretch string I would try a black hunter. You can buy a long bow, and recurve limbs to see what suites your fancy. JMO.

I guess that depends on how competitive I wanted to be….

If scoring lines matter. I’d probably go with an ILF set-up; basically a Rick Barbee Light. I think his riser is a JC Optimus and I know he shoots very big hooks. So a heavy, metal riser with the weight distribution dialed for maximum stability, Carbon/foam SR limbs, and I guess I would have to research the options for an elevated rest and a Berger Button, if the class I wanted to shoot in will allow for that. Arrows as light as the warranty will allow, and probably vanes….

Riser design is important because Oly style target risers are built on the assumption that you’ll be attaching multiple stabilizers, and you’d want a riser which is built right up to the line on what’s legal for competition in your chosen class.

If you’re interested in winning.

Anything wrong with the bow/s you currently have now? Or do you just need a reason to buy another one? Be honest!! haha

Perhaps an oversimplification but I would buy one I can shoot well. With all the vendor-laden shoots nowadays it shouldn't be hard to shoot some before thinking about buying.

There are just 3 elements that will make you win, and it is not just the bow: - your shooting skills - how smart are you using the bow and arrow combo to achieve your goals - the rules under you want to compete.

#35 Black Hunter. Priced right and shoots great.

I think Bruce has been around enough to know that a particular bow isn't going to turn him in to a world class 3-D competitor overnite.

It would come down to what I wanted to accomplish I think. If I wanted to work at becoming a successful competitor I'd get something that was a dedicated 3-D bow. I would look for an ILF riser that fit me well grip wise, and then mount a set of medium to high performance limbs from Uuhka, Backwoods, or somebody on it.

Find a bow you really like and can shoot well, and in a weight that is easy to shoot all day long. I like T/D recurves with two sets of limbs, light weight for fun and a heavier weight for hunting. I've been shooting LB's for a few years now and just recently bought a Yellowstone Hunter, 62" and 41lb @ 28", that I really like.

Fast bow that shoots good.

A guy can get “fast” by just going with lighter arrow weight

DAS. get a 17" riser with longs or X longs. 62" or 64". or one of the new latest DALAA 19" risers.... with longs 64". 62" with mediums. or get a DALAA 21" or a HT21......and mediums, or shorts.... like nobody outpizzas the HUT....DAS rules. older WINEX or Extreme BFs or SF Ultimate Pros..... or SKY or Bivouac or Centaur or Java Man longbow limbs. fast and smooth and well behaved.

also grip choices to suit about anyone, with the DAS risers.

SEE the green 21" DAS on ads TODAY with 35# ILF longbow limbs. awesome machine right there.

oops too long at 66". otherwise all good. it gives an idea anyway.

Draven, you have to add a 'will to win', once all else is working good. The most important thing is mental attitude once form is well set and repeatable. Doubt will drop you below the top three every time.

Metal ILF riser, I like CD Archery stuff as it’s designed for barebow shooting, 19” or 21”. Since 40 pound max I would go with high performance recurve for highest speed, think super curve profile. Teamed up with light arrows 200+ speeds are easily possible.

Of course where you shoot 3-D, rules may dictate a variation on the above.

Actually, you just need a bow you can shoot well. I followed a top barebow shooter around a field course who ended up with a 528 that day out of 560. Rodney Hoover was shooting a 68", Wood target bow made by bowyer in eastern Pennsylvania, Mike Fedora. It was a 68", 44# and he shot split finger, gap and used an under the arrow clicker. Guy was phenomenal; at one shoot had a 548 out of 560, beating most of the freestyle shooters as well. He also shot those scores after switching to a Hoyt PM takedown, so it's not the bow.

Can you comfortable shoot 40# through a course without fatigue of would you be stressed by that? If so the go with something at that weight, if not then go lighter.

A WF21 or a HT-21 riser and build up from there ......

Just ordered a bow I plan to use more or less for 3D but maybe some open country spot and stalk hunts here out West. Big Jim Buffalo 3 piece riser, 40@27", 60" long. We'll see how it comes out. Got "the call" in April. Should be here any week now...

Hoyt ILF riser with the best Hoyt limbs you can afford. You can defiantly compete with an excel riser and older but still awesome Hoyt limbs. I would buy limbs that would draw 30# at your draw length and shoot 700 spine carbon arrows with glue in points.

Believe it or not there are different “trad” classes depending on the shoot (tournament) you are competing in. What do the clubs around you have for “trad” shoots? If not what do they have for classes at a wheel bow/ tradbow tournment. Around here the “trad” stakes are usually no more than 30-35 yards out. A 40#-45 bow is more than adequate. Being old I like a bow that is physically lite as well. Covering 4-5 miles shooting the tournament is common around here. Usually that means a one piece bow with a wood riser for me.

I would concentrate more on learning a system of gap, string walking etc. and being able to judge distance.

JusPassin, what's your draw length?

64" is a good length but I'd go with limbs that are efficient at your DL and a riser length that gets you to your desired OAL.

19 inch riser with longs, 21 with mediums, 23 with shorts. (This is for ILF bows.)

Since I have Bear TDs. It be a Bear TD B riser with #3 limbs in 30 or 35lbs which would be close to 40lbs at my draw.

"What would you get for 3d?" Nothing. I'd use my 2016 Bear Kodiak Takedown (60#@28" / 60"amo) that I already own.

Love the variety I'm seeing here.

Actually just ordered my next 3D bow. A Javaman Impala Express, 37#s, 68" (amo but is actually 66"), G10 riser, Beaver tail grip. It'll be my second Impala Express. With the G10 riser It'll come in at a mass weight of 4#s and be solid as a rock.

If I were shorter, I'd keep it to 64", but being 6'6" with 32" draw I went with DAS HT21 and Nika N3 longs, for 66".

Got a kick out of your post Frank. I'm currently shooting a Satori riser with Uukha EVO limbs drawing 42 pounds. Just shot my first 3d yesterday, 366/400. Not a bad start to the season.

No pictures it never happened

Well Bruce...:)

Here's my card from Saturday. 600 would have been perfect.

Bear k mag takedown 50#@28

Jed's Picture.

Since 3-D in these parts are basically fun shoots and not competitive I shoot a hunting style ILF riser with premium limbs. For the last 11 years, I've shot this 19" Titan III with 45# BF Extreme limbs. After shooting 6 rounds of 3-D in 3 days last weekend I realize I need to drop down in weight at my age (79). I'm going to get some 40# limbs for it in the near future.

Bought a new bow for 3d last year--- Toelke (of course) 10X Whip. 62" 42#@28". It's a r/d longbow with a bit heavier micarta riser. I just like longbows. I got along with it so well during the summer that I took it to the whitetail woods and got a couple deer with it last fall. I might shoot an ilf better, but will probably never find out as I like the wood bows.

I'd get an old target bow with a heavy wood riser like a Hoyt Pro Medalist, or Wing Presentation because I love the wood grain. The heavy bow hangs steady in my hands and dampens the effect of my shooting flaws.

Man that is some shooting JusPassin

3D was originally intended for hunting practice. If you aren't using your hunting bow, then you're shooting target archery.

Let's just call it what it is.

Shoot 3D with your hunting bow.

limbwalker X2.

You ask a simple question and then complicate it with silly parameters. I like 66 inches and 50 pounds.

Limbwalker, the flip side of your post is, lots of guys shoot more poundage than they can shoot well for 30 shots. (Makes me wonder if they actually 'enjoy' archery.)

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