What are some ways you ensure that you draw length measurements are accurate and consistent. I have learned not having this right leads to several problem in arrow tuning. Just looking for the most accurate way or other ways to think about it.

Is the interest here revolving around determining the actual draw weight, or consistency shot-to-shot?

JMO, the latter is more important. Draw weight for arrow selection is just a starting point anyway. Draw length is just a number and there’s only so much you can do about it/

But if you really want to know and you don’t have access to a Chrono, probably best is to mark your arrow like a ruler and have someone film your shooting (RIGHT up close!) so you can pick apart the measurement on a string of shots and get your average…..

Is the interest here revolving around determining the actual draw weight, or consistency shot-to-shot?

JMO, the latter is more important. Draw weight for arrow selection is just a starting point anyway. Draw length is just a number and there’s only so much you can do about it/

But if you really want to know and you don’t have access to a Chrono, probably best is to mark your arrow like a ruler and have someone film your shooting (RIGHT up close!) so you can pick apart the measurement on a string of shots and get your average…..

Interested myself. I have tried several methods and always got mixed results depending on myself. Lots of factors effect draw length.

Best method I have found and it’s definitely not the answer you are looking for is not to stress over it. Just try to shoot what feels natural every shot.

lots of variables,,not easy question,, I guess start with a clicker olympic style,,for proven consistancy,, or just shoot how you like,,up to you

Draw weight ultimately for arrow tuning.

The best method I've found is to have someone mark the shaft at full draw during a shooting session, measure all the marks, and take the average. The more marks, the larger the sample size and the more accurate the number will be.

I have one arrow cut to my draw length with a washer installed behind the field point. Periodically I'll draw that arrow until the washer hits the riser for a "feel" of draw length. I'll hold it there for a few seconds reenforcing the "feel". The arrow does not have to match your other arrows as it's not being shot.

Another method is finding your point of aim distance and periodically shooting from it. Doesn't take very much draw length change to change point of impact. (I'm lucky as I have a big yard)

Your draw me hth has to be off a considerable amount to have mean I feel impact on arrow tune at typical ranges.

And if it's off that much you have other things to work on.

Your form, draw..hold..anchor..release..follow-through just needs to be consistent as much as possible. Since you said, 'draw length', that should be really simple, find a spot on your face that is comfortable as an anchor area and be consistent with it. I use the cheek bone since it doesn't move and is comfortable to put the back of my draw hand up and into it.

You don't choose a draw length then try to obtain that somehow; it should feel natural and relatively easy to replicate shot to shot. After that it's basically repeating the process. Most guys screw- up more by not following through on the shot, a process that can make or break a shooter. We put all our eggs in the draw basket then don't maintain through the entire process.

I should add that nothing good happens if you're struggling to pull and hold the bow. Make sure you are capable of that from the get-go.

Many guys have shorter draw lengths than they think for what ever reason. You can use the cloths pin method were you clip it on the arrow, and pull to full draw, and then measure. Do it several times to get an average.

That is exactly what I do Bugsy 49. I measured recently after several years and found that my draw length decreased a little. I don't know exactly why. Still shoot the same weight bows with no trouble. Arrows still fly great. Getten old I guess or shrinking.

Use your natural anchor. I feel most use shorter draws than they really should causing bad form.

bold markings on the arrow shaft near what you assume is your draw length , video yourself shooting several shots

What George said.

It's simple. When I draw a bow throughout the day at the shop or at the house, I have an arrow with tape on it, marked at the front of my shelf. I put a clothes pin on it that touches the riser when I reach full draw and anchor. I also use a psycho trigger, a feather that touches my nose when I'm at full draw. All my arrows are fletched so the same feather touches my nose.

Shoot a bow weight you can pull through.

Exactly Buglmin I do the exact same thing with the clothes pin

I would agree with Bugzy 49 most people's draw length than what they believe it is. A clicker or psychological trigger helps with consistency.

I would agree with Bugzy 49 most people's draw length than what they believe it is. A clicker or psychological trigger helps with consistency.

Now with clickers on all my bows my DL is consistent but so short I don't want to know exactly what it is...don't want a number to mess with my head! Looking at how much arrow is sticking out it is real short - less than 26" for sure - but my arrows fly nicely which matters most.

I have a chronograph but never put an arrow through it for the same reason. I know they are slow because of the short DL and weight range of bows I have and just deal with it over the rather short distances I shoot instinctively. I could buy and try lighter spine shafts at reduced weights to increase speed a bit but need the arrow weight to do the work at the low speeds.

I have watched a lot of people at shoots that draw way shorter than they should. There form is not good, shoulders all scrunched up and not a good line from there draw arm elbow to their bow. There draws should be longer to get into true anchor position. But, if that is the way they want to shoot and they are happy and good with performance, I cannot say anything. But, if you wany good clean consistent form and shot, I believe in making sure you are coming back to your natural anchor.

I take a full length arrow (not tapered for an head) and attach a clothes pin near the tip with the legs hanging down. Draw with a gloved bow-hand and gently let back down. Measure from nock valley to the clothes pin. This assures me clearance with broadheads.

Actually, I guess that is more for gauging shaft trim length. Add 3/4” for the head taper.

“ I also use a psycho trigger, a feather that touches my nose when I'm at full draw. All my arrows are fletched so the same feather touches my nose.”

That sounds good enough, but what’s to prevent a guy from reaching put with bis nose until he touches the feather?? I do something similar, feeling the bowstring pressing against my eyebrow, but I can achieve that at brace; your draw’s not consistent until it’s consistent at both ends of the arrow…. Doesn’t matter who you are, and that’s why they sell clickers, so PLEASE nobody get your undies in a bunch….

For the OP’s stated purpose, the #3/inch rule of thumb oughtta be close enough for a starting point and after that it’s either Close Enough (using guidelines from an OLD Easton chart for an older bow and maybe a newer chart if you’re shooting something much more modern, like an ILF) or you’re into some trial and error anyway….

Just remember that we all have a much longer DL when we know we’re being measured, just as we all stand up taller when the nurse is checking our height. So JMO, find a way to document your actual DL while you’re actually SHOOTING. And preferably at about half-way through a shooting session. Remember: it’s a MEASUREMENT, NOT a Score; faking it will get you exactly Nowhere Useful.

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