I cut some shag bark 6 months ago I’ve already made 3 bows, both were “quick dried” over the course of one 2 weeks one 4 weeks and one 6 weeks roughed out under a bed right next to a vent the one dried for two weeks took about 8 inches of set 4 weeks took 3 on the top limb (poor tillering) and six weeks took none but is now drying with sinew on the back. I’m thinking of roughing out the “Mohegan” from tbb4. I’m gonna try to steam the whole 48” stave for a full 24 and throw it in a form for a week to see how dry it will get, kind of an experiment but I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for or objections to it or even if anyone has tried something like this. I’ve got about 15 staves so I wanna try a few different ways to dry them see how far I can push it.

I’d also love to hear opinions on quick drying and force drying methods. I’m doing it because I haven’t been making bows long and don’t have a stockpile of staves yet.

Steaming dries wood out. It will get very dry with that treatment.

Do you think it will get below 6%?

I don't know anything about this, but I'm gonna throw it out there anyway. Clay Hayes has a video where he dug a trench, got the fire going in the trench, placed his bow (I don't remember how high) above the trench. I think it was the next day he had a useable bow.

Adk, green Hickory, or most woods for that matter ate pretty easy to bend with no extra heat.

Just work the bow down to floor tiller while it is wet and green and then clamp it to your form. You will get some spring back when you take it off so keep th a in mind.

Do I need a backer to keep it from splintering when I clamp it still?

Pope, I saw that one I might try that too at some point

Runner, do you think it’s worth a shot or no

Not really unless you're in a real rush. Steaming drives out moisture but I feel it drives out everything else too.

Thank you runner, not in a rush really just excited about makin bows and trying new things. would it be better to steam it for a shorter period of time like an hour or two or do you think what fdp said is the way to go just clamp it down and wait a few weeks.

Sorry about all the questions and if I sound like I’m incapable of making a decision lol.

Runner is correct. Steam actually drives 'some' moisture from green wet wood. And with steam, it's the heat that makes the wood pliable more than the moisture. So once it's hot enough, it's hot enough, and more time in the steamer isn't needed. I've heard the general rule is to steam for about 1 hour per inch of thickness. But I like to go just a little longer, about 1:15 on wood 3/4 to 1" thick. It's plenty pliable then for making corrections or inducing moderate reflex or whatever.

Whether you need metal strapping for the belly to reduce the chances of it splintering depends on the radius of the curve you're trying to affect, and the thickness of the wood. If it's down to a heavy floor tiller and you're just reflexing it or doing semi-recurves, you don't need to strap it.

Thank you Jeff

Go to utube ,and watch vids that make bows from green to finish saplings in 3 days, or less. Doug Shannon, and Thad Beckum. I have tried it with different white woods, and it works. Best results for me was with hickory. I have used white oak, elm, and walnut. Next will be with birch, and maybe black locust.

Thank you, bugsy

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