Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Hardware store heat-shrink on carbons?

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Messages posted to thread:
Corax_latrans 27-Nov-22
2 bears 27-Nov-22
Corax_latrans 27-Nov-22
Bigdog 21 27-Nov-22
M60gunner 27-Nov-22
bodymanbowyer 27-Nov-22
Bigdog 21 27-Nov-22
Babysaph 27-Nov-22
Ragnall 27-Nov-22
Runner 27-Nov-22
Hunter Dave 28-Nov-22
Jon Stewart 28-Nov-22
Rick Barbee 28-Nov-22
AK Pathfinder 28-Nov-22
Bowspirit 28-Nov-22
Therifleman 28-Nov-22
Boomer 28-Nov-22
Boomer 28-Nov-22
From: Corax_latrans
Date: 27-Nov-22




One problem I have run across with the aluminum footings is that on some (usually plain black) carbons, the superglue seems to let go and allows the footing to slide all the way back to the fletching. Or if I use an aluminum insert with the footing, there’s a tendency for the footing to let go and I leave the whole works (footing, insert & point) stuck in a target somewhere….

So (in part because I have seen guys using these to hold their fletchings in place) it occurred to me to use a piece of heat-shrink tubing to prevent the footing from sliding up the shaft.

But now I am a bit cautious about overdoing the heat, so as not to damage the carbons. Are any of you guys using heat shrink tubing on your carbon arrows? And if so, what is your preferred method for heating and shrinking?

From: 2 bears
Date: 27-Nov-22




Super glue is brittle & not good for impact. Use a slow cure epoxy.Quick cure is not very flexible either but might work O.K. Shrink tubing would keep it from sliding on the shaft but add no strength to keep the footing from breaking loose at impact. Footings won't do much to protect the shaft if they simply slide up. I would think shrink tubing wouldn't pull from targets very well either. Back to the drawing board Matt. Get better glue. >>>----> Ken

From: Corax_latrans
Date: 27-Nov-22




Yeah, I’ve tried the “impact resistant” stuff and it’s not holding…

I do have some 2-part epoxy around… just looking for a band-aid for what I have on- hand which is still susceptible to that kind of failure….

And you can reheat the epoxy to remove that, right?

From: Bigdog 21
Date: 27-Nov-22




Use a hair dryer on shrink tube.

From: M60gunner
Date: 27-Nov-22




I use 2 part slow cure epoxy for the foots. Usually a golf shaft epoxy. I rough up the shaft and the inside of foot. I also chamfer the back edge of the foot for easier removal of arrows from targets. I was using the same glue for the inserts but have gone to Big Jim’s hot melt lately. The heat doesn’t hurt the glue.

From: bodymanbowyer
Date: 27-Nov-22




Why mess around with footing a carbon arrow. I've been shooting them for a long time. No problems. I don't understand why people want to foot, strengthen a carbon arrow. JF

From: Bigdog 21
Date: 27-Nov-22




Gold tip ballistic collar.?

From: Babysaph Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 27-Nov-22




I agree I tried the foot and it was no stronger for me. The 3D targets are not that hard. I have more of a problem when I don’t get a pass through and deer break them off when they fall on em.

From: Ragnall
Date: 27-Nov-22




Don't count on the heat shrink to help much. I have a few sets of arrows off of Amazon that have heat shrink on the fletches. I have reheated/reshrunk them a few times now, but over time the impact starts sliding the pieces of heat shrink down the shaft.

From: Runner
Date: 27-Nov-22




G Flex epoxy is likely your best bet.

Personally I wrap my limited amount of carbon arrows with either a glass or carbon spiral wrap just like you would use sinew on a cane shaft. That gives the needed hoop strength.

From: Hunter Dave
Date: 28-Nov-22




As pointed out above, super glue is the wrong adhesive for the job. Two-part epoxy works great for footings. I can't see how heat shrink is going to help you at all.

From: Jon Stewart
Date: 28-Nov-22




As mentioned, use a slow curing epoxy. I don't think shrink tube will do anything but eventually slide up your arrow or come off in the target. I don't think there is much "strength" in a heated rubber tube on your arrow.

From: Rick Barbee
Date: 28-Nov-22




Shrink tube will tear up after a while. Probably fairly soon. Once it gets a nick in it, it's gonna tear. I wouldn't use it.

Quite a while back, I started using the original "Orange Label" Gorilla glue for all my inserts, outserts, and footings when I use them. I've not had even a single failure since. It's some darn good stuff, but you have to let it cure for a few hours before use. I usually let it set over night.

It is also heat reversible. Takes a bit more heat than hot melt, but I haven't damaged a shaft yet when removing parts.

Rick

From: AK Pathfinder
Date: 28-Nov-22




Like others have pointed out the heat shrink won't do much. They do make heat shrink that has pre-reapplied hot melt glue inside it. If you do use some for a project it won't slide around and is fairly waterproof.

From: Bowspirit
Date: 28-Nov-22




Instead of shrink tubing, why not do a whip tie with some dental floss or bowstring material. I use it on the front of my fletches. Coated with epoxy or nail polish, I have to imagine it's a great deal tougher than any tubing you'll find.

Could be just what you're looking for

From: Therifleman
Date: 28-Nov-22




I have stopped using epoxy on footings and use big Jim's hot melt. I don't have any problem with them moving. I do scratch up the slick carbon w 220 before I glue. I was surprised that they hold as good as they do, but it's worked well for me the past couple years. I am using alum size that is very close to od of shaft and spine footing on as I install. Hope this helps you.

From: Boomer
Date: 28-Nov-22




Use properly sized aluminum footing and glue them with “Insert Weld” by the 30-06 company. It sets up quickly so have your ducks in a row before applying the glue. Clean with alcohol beforehand and make sure all surfaces are clean and dry. They will not come off.

From: Boomer
Date: 28-Nov-22




Use properly sized aluminum footing and glue them with “Insert Weld” by the 30-06 company. It sets up quickly so have your ducks in a row before applying the glue. Clean with alcohol beforehand and make sure all surfaces are clean and dry. They will not come off.





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