I am just about to use some rustoleum to cap some arrows. Carbons. What is my best alternative for preventing the paint from interfering with nock insertion?

Should I just maintain a number of nocks, understanding that they are going to get covered with many coats of paint, or should I just stick a piece of masking tape on the butt end of the arrow and let that do the work?

I have a bunch of Centershots, and a quarter inch dowel seems to provide a very effective plug for the nock end, but I’m not sure how that’s going to work out with larger bore shafts which may need a little more guidance.

Maybe I should just buy some quarter inch dowel and plug things up that way?

Simple- Don't spray inside the shaft.

If you get twitchy and coat the inside, a quick swab with a Q tip doused in acetone will clean it right out.

X2..

X 3. You'll be spraying light coats to prevent runs, and the nock end will be pointing away from you, most likely. I've never had that problem, and I spray cap all my carbons.

X4.

if it can't be helped just stick a pc. of old t-shirt in the end or just use wraps.

Lay off the caffeine before you spray.

Never an issue for me, just spray from the other direction.

You can simply use just one nock and remove it after each spray for each arrow.

The dowel works just fine, and if you need to take up some slack from the dowel to the actual inside Diameter, just wrap a little tape on the dowel. Electrical tape adds a little resistance so it does not fall out the end.

To add to the OP's question. Those who do spray caps. do you put a clear coat over the rattle can to keep the color or no?

-Bones

All of the above work fine. I have a set of nocks just for crown painting.

The issue with most methods is you will need to be careful in removing whatever you use as the very edge paint can tear. I run an Exacto around the end before removing. That will also help in squaring up the paint with the shaft.

"do you put a clear coat over the rattle can to keep the color or no?"....yes. I also undercoat all caps with a light coat of white.

If you believe it's needed there are shaft plugs made for dipping. I may have picked mine up at 3Rivers. If you decide to go the dowel (broken wood shafts?) route, would point taper plus an inch or so make a plug that would work for a few shaft sizes?

Steve

lay off caffiene x2

I have sprayed caps on many carbons with no problems at all. I just point the open end away from me as I spray and nothing gets in that end.

I leave the nocks in and covered them with blue tape. I use my Spinrite crester to turn the shaft while I spray.

Dry Bones, yes - clear coat over the cap. Like fdp, I prime mine with a white, universal bonding primer, then spray cap, then crest with acrylic paint. Min-Wax Polycrylic semi- gloss for clear coat, because it doesn't yellow like regular Min- Wax polyurethane. I do 3 very light coats, about 1 hour apart, then let dry at least 48 hours.

The times I have done it I did what M60gunner mentioned.

Spray capped some carbons for first time the other week. Mostly used wraps before, way faster but I sure like the spray painted caps better.

I just sprayed with no nocks in, no trouble at all

What's the best glue to use on this case? Thanks

I can't speak to glues, as I've only used the Bohning tape, with no problems.

So 2X for the 1st coat and Gloss for the 2nd? I’d be disappointed if they’re not compatible… not necessarily surprised, given my usual luck, but disappointed just the same ;)

And then wipe with the poly? Or not so much an issue with this stuff?

I just want them to look decent and stay looking decent long enough to get lost or broken ;)

Beman Centershots plug very neatly with tapered 1/4” dowel plugs; 5/16” taper in the .246 ID Warriors not so much.

So it sounds like most of you guys hold the shaft in one hand and the spray can in the other, which makes sense I guess. Question is what do you do with the shaft after you’ve sprayed it? Do you hang them from a line with a clothespin, or stand them up in a block of wood, or…? I was actually thinking to stand them up in a chunk of shot- up ethafoam that I dragged home from the club after a target repair day.

But I’m guessing that it’s preferable to let them dry in a vertical rather than horizontal position.

And of course the unseasonably warm weather that made this such an inviting project is apparently on its way out of town, but maybe that will be good luck for the hunters.

Take an old pencil and sharpen it up with a sharpener, brake the lead off and cut it short. Should fit just about any carbon you can buy.

I stuff a little cotton or paper towel in the end and fish it out later. Works great. A light cote of white first is better. Finish with a clear cote, like satin finish, and the paint holds up alot better. I have done many dozen and this is the best way I have found.

I have not done what yall are referring to, but I would think a disposable foam ear plug would work just fine for this. Twist it up and let it set in the arrow shaft.

Thats a great idea.

Maybe half of one?

Still curious as to your drying rack arrangements

Corax, I have used Rustoleum just like your photo but, I have also used Krylon Fusion with equally good results. I have not used the 2X primer, although I can't imagine there is any non- compatibility issues. I use Universal Bonding Primer from Rustoleum which is also white, and use this with the Krylon colors, too.

For drying, I have only used horizontal. I made 2 drying racks from stiff cardboard - cut them into rectangles, folded them in half (to form a V), cut 12 notches for the arrow to rest in. The only issues I had with runs or drips were the occasional arrow I sprayed too heavily in an area, and didn't see in time. The drip was easily seen when dry, and I just buffed it down with 4-0 steel wool, gave a little shot to that spot, and let it dry. Problem gone. I eventually bought a pair of wooden drying racks from 3 Rivers for about $5 - I think to get my order to a lower shipping total!

Pictures always help me, so here goes. A set I'm working on now - finished cresting last night, will spray the clear coat this evening if I can get home before the rain starts.

Here is the primer & paint I used on this set.

I just use wood shafts and a dip tube for the poly seal, hang them on metal coat hangers with clothes pins. Full length to leave a couple of inches for clothes pins, can get 10-12 to a hanger. Nothing to build, easy to move if needed while drying and storing is out of way with a gallon zip lock bag and the closet.

No drying rack here, I just leave the end hanging over the edge of the bench. Which is a disaster waiting to happen. But I've got away with it so far.

Variations of a theme.

I stain and dip my wood shafts just as I always do. If I’m going to do a crown I then mask off the shaft where I want it to stop with blue painters tape, take shaft outside and spray. I don’t use a primer unless I have a color that doesn’t cover well. Lay shaft in boards I have cutouts in to hold arrows. Horizontal works unless I sprayed too heavy in which case vertical would also be a problem.

When I spray end caps on my wood and aluminum shafts I chuck them in an electric drill and give them two light coats as the drill spins.

I used bamboo skewers with a few wraps around of masking tape to make easily removable and re-useable plugs.

https://www.3riversarchery.com/bohning-micro-dip-n-plugz-for-arrow-building.html

https://www.3riversarchery.com/bohning-max-dip-n-plugz-for-arrow-building.html

Well, I took a stab at it. Guess we’ll see what we see when we see it….

So far, I can see one spot where the paint went on a little heavy, but it’s not something that I think will require a do over. The white stuff that I used for the first coat is a matte finish, so it’s a bit more forgiving than the gloss will be, maybe.

And at the end of the day, I’m just trying to make decent ammunition; not ready to go into creating works of art just yet… So Workmanlike results will do for now.

Well, so far I have demonstrated that the re-coat times listed on the can are not to be trusted!

I realized that I had used the “Sunburst yellow on my son’s arrows, which were meant to be fluorescent, and the fluorescent did not go over the gloss enamel smoothly. Fortunately, only one arrow was involved!

Always good to have one guinea pig.

Next up will be wipe on poly for a good number of these (woodies). Is there a recommended minimum drying time before that goes on?

I bet if you tried to paint the I.D. of those shafts you would have a tough time.:<) Just angle the spray & debur after. You will get it. >>>----> Ken

Yeah, seems like it went OK; I just don’t want to Gomer the paint trying to chsnge the color too soon….

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