Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Snake Skin ? On Osage Bow

Messages posted to thread:
wooddamon1 25-Aug-22
wooddamon1 25-Aug-22
wooddamon1 25-Aug-22
Stick Hippie 25-Aug-22
Stick Hippie 25-Aug-22
Stick Hippie 25-Aug-22
fdp 25-Aug-22
Stick Hippie 25-Aug-22
wooddamon1 25-Aug-22
Beendare 25-Aug-22
bentstick54 25-Aug-22
wooddamon1 25-Aug-22
wooddamon1 25-Aug-22
bentstick54 25-Aug-22
wooddamon1 25-Aug-22
Stickbow Felty 25-Aug-22
wooddamon1 25-Aug-22
wooddamon1 26-Aug-22
wooddamon1 26-Aug-22
wooddamon1 26-Aug-22
wooddamon1 26-Aug-22
Bodark 26-Aug-22
[email protected] 26-Aug-22
wooddamon1 26-Aug-22
wooddamon1 26-Aug-22
Stickbow Felty 26-Aug-22
From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 25-Aug-22




Hey guys, got a couple questions on applying some skins to an Osage bow.

1: Should I have some sort of finish on the back before glueing it on? I've only done glass bows and obviously those had finish before the skin application, just wondering because there's a coat of Shellac on the bow's back now, which I'm currently sanding on.

2: Any particular dye or paint color that will make some rattler skins look more "vivid", so to speak? I've heard of guys doing similar with copperhead skins.

3: Okay, one more: Anyone like and use just Shellac for a bow finish? I kept this bow's back sealed with it while I did some steam corrections and I gotta say, looks pretty nice and with the spray can it was super simple. I have plenty of Tru-Oil also and really like it if that's a better option.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 25-Aug-22

wooddamon1's embedded Photo



From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 25-Aug-22




A little sneak peak before skins and finish ^^^

From: Stick Hippie
Date: 25-Aug-22




You don’t need a finish first, just make sure you’ve roughed up the bow back to allow for good adhesion. You can paint the back black or even use a black sharpie, be aware that going too close to the edge of the limbs with paint or sharpie will leave a thin black line on the edges after trimming the skins with your file. Weylin Olive (Swiftwood bows) has a great video on YouTube about this

From: Stick Hippie
Date: 25-Aug-22




https://youtu.be/uEcrmtJ1ZcU

From: Stick Hippie
Date: 25-Aug-22




That link came out wonky, just search Swiftwood bows “How to back a bow with snakeskin”

From: fdp
Date: 25-Aug-22




From: Stick Hippie
Date: 25-Aug-22




That’s it fdp, thank you, I’m technically challenged

From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 25-Aug-22




Good stuff, thanks guys.

From: Beendare
Date: 25-Aug-22




I’ve done a couple bows that have held up well- one over 10 years in hunting conditions.

Personally, I would put a finish on the bow before I glued the skins on…..

From: bentstick54
Date: 25-Aug-22

bentstick54 's embedded Photo



I have done 3, 2 rattlesnake and 1 copperhead. I did not stain the Osage bows before applying the skins. I used Titebond3, sized the bow back with glue, then applied another coat of glue on the bow, and one on the rehydrated snakeskin, gently applied the snakeskin and smoothed out any air pockets that developed and let dry, occasionally checking for any developing air pockets. I did not wrap them after laying the skins on. Then I finished the entire bow with Truoil. The 2 with rattlesnake skins have thousands of arrows through them.

From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 25-Aug-22




Thanks, Bruce. I'm thinking a coat of shellac won't hurt and maybe offer some slight protection under the skin should I happen to wack a limb on something. I see in the video he sized the back with hide glue...

From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 25-Aug-22




Wow bentstick! Very nice! Thanks for the input.

From: bentstick54
Date: 25-Aug-22




I used the Titebond 3 because it’s waterproof.

From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 25-Aug-22




Thanks, yep that's what I've used on glass bows and what I'm using for this one.

From: Stickbow Felty
Date: 25-Aug-22




Beautiful bow Damon.You don't need a snake skin on that beauty.

From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 25-Aug-22




Thank you kindly, Felty. I got some for a steal and this is my waviest one yet, so I figured I'd give it a go.

From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 26-Aug-22

wooddamon1's embedded Photo



Got the skins glued on with Titebond 3, working on getting it sanded down. Had a couple minor boo-boos, but I was working with one big thick skin and a smaller, thinner one. I'll show finished pics in another thread. Thanks for the help, gentlemen!

From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 26-Aug-22

wooddamon1's embedded Photo



From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 26-Aug-22

wooddamon1's embedded Photo



From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 26-Aug-22




Wow, them pics look like crapola on my phone...anyhooz that's where I'm at for anyone interested. Can't wait to get some finish on this bad boy. Got all day :)

From: Bodark Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 26-Aug-22




Make sure you remove scales with masking tape before finish for a smooth finish Gary

From: [email protected]
Date: 26-Aug-22




Being a selfbow I'd finish it at least seal it before the skins then of course descale when dry and finish.

From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 26-Aug-22




Thank you guys, I left a thin layer of shellac on the back before I glued on the skins.

From: wooddamon1 Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 26-Aug-22




Oh and also took wide painters tape and peeled off the scales before starting on the finish coats.

From: Stickbow Felty
Date: 26-Aug-22




Looks good





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