Hello all,

I'm setting up arrows for a 41lb longbow. So far I got 600 spines at 28 inches with 150gr to fly straight bare shaft and planning to use 3 fletching of 4 inch feathers. I only have 600 spines arrow at the moment so it was what I used. But I was hoping to use 200gr broadheads for better whitetail hunting FOC at lower poundage. I would preferred not to cut arrow any shorter because I don't want to cut off my finger if human error happens. So what do you suggests?

1. Add weight via lighted nocks and 4 fletching of 5 inch feathers.

2. Go buy 500 spine and start all over.

I'm still open to cutting the arrow because some people have said that when you feel the back of the broadhead touching your finger, it does act like a mental trigger. That they have use it as an indicator to help with consistence drawing. I'm intrigued by this but really worried that I'll slice something off.

If you want to increase FOC you have no choice but to cut them or go up in spine.

Not sure how you could cut anything off. People were shooting net length arrows off their knuckle with broadheads long before you and I came along.

To fdp,

Thank you for the quick reply. Ok, so are you saying it is an unrealistic concern? Something that might be am issue for compound bow only?

I can't recall exact sources, but I remember the general rule is that arrow should at least extend 3/4 in beyond the riser.

I agree that people have been shooting off the knuckles for generations especially before shelves were popular. But I think in that regards the longer the arrows were preferred.

But if you can explain why I shouldn't worry about arrow being too short that they might cut. I would appreciate it sir. I'm just not that knowledgeable yet and to me, the chances of injuries are higher if broadheads are closer. Thank you.

How in the world are you gripping your bow that you have to worry about a broadhead cutting your fingers? And what rule says 3/4" in front on the riser? I shoot a lot of 45 pound bows, and tune them with .600 spined arrows, and use 185 grain to 200 grains tip weight. With a .500 spine, you're gonna need over 300 grains tip weight. Most 50 pound sticks take over 200 grains tip weight on a .500 spined arrow.

You can add aluminum arrow footing to the arrows to increase the FOC without cutting off too much of the arrow length. Or get longer inserts for your arrows to increase the FOC also. Many ways to get it done. Both ways will minimize the amount of trimming you will need to do to your arrows.

I'm sure you referring to cutting off your finger was a slight exaggeration but none the less very concerning, even a slight nick in your finger isn't good, always leave enough room for error GO TO 500 SPINE

To Buglmin,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0cKAJZ2HYM

There are others that recommend arrows should be 1 inch longer than your draw length. Depending on the bow and how the shelves are built, I can feel the arrow sliding on my finger as I draw.

Yes, I still consider myself a beginner.

I shoot a longer arrow because I find the broadhead touching my finger at full draw is distracting. However, if I didn't I wouldn't be at all concerned with cutting my finger because most broadheads are not sharp on the rear edge, and second I shoot 2 blades and mount them horizontally.

"Ok, so are you saying it is an unrealistic concern?"....Yep

"Something that might be an issue for compound bow only?"

^^^^don't know how that could be either^^^^

"How in the world are you gripping your bow that you have to worry about a broadhead cutting your fingers?"

^^^^and gotta' ask that same question^^^^

Just tinker a little before you by new arrow put your 200gr on your 600 see how bad the flight is then to stiffen your 600 you can add raps on the back of you arrow add a heaver serving on you string. When I shot carbons Axis 500 I could shot point from 125 up to 160. DM me if you want.

The fix is not that difficult. Build out your side plate until you get your 600s with a 200 grain point to fly true.

I would simply stay with the 150 points. Deer aren’t going to notice the difference

If your arrows are bareshafting then you are done IMO Don't mess with it.

Oh yeah, did not consider building plate. Thank you!

Ok, so I might be jumping at ghosts. But my fear is that I would overdrawn which is a common mistake beginner make. Or the arrow jump of the shelves and when it set back on, it is behind my finger.

Chances of that happening? very small I admit, but my form is not perfect so I rather not tempt faith.

I have Magnus Stinger and they are sharpened on the back.

It is not a completely unreasonable concern. How long are your arrows and how much clearance do you have? Especially as a beginner, if in the excitement of drawing on game, you pull the arrow head into the bow or your finger it is going to pull the nock off the string. Your arrow is going to fall off spooking game & losing your chance. Adrenalin can work in strange ways. Some can't get to full draw & some get super strength & yank the string back pulling the head into the bow. How ever you tune keep a little clearance until you can smoothly/slowly draw your bow to anchor in exciting conditions. Most of the time in stealth mode I draw very slowly so the movement doesn't attract attention. If your setup is tuned now I wouldn't worry about increasing head weight 50 grains. >>>-----> Ken

Thank you all for your reply. I think I'll stick with the 150 grains. Wrap the arrows and do 4 fletching. If they fly straight with both 150-200 then I am not going to worry anymore.

I asked this because I tried to tune with a broadhead after deciding that my field points were flying straight. My hand just felt really exposed as the broadhead come closer to it as I draw, especially as I can feel the shaft sliding across it. Coming from the compound bow world, I never had to worry about it.

"especially as I can feel the shaft sliding across it." so are you shooting off your knuckle, "off the shelf", or from an elevated rest?

The things that you are describing, and the sensations that seem to be prompting your fears are not typical in my experience.

The bow I'm using has a very shallow shelf. My grip is almost parallel to the shelf as if my finger is an extension of the shelf. If that make any sense?

This is not me, but this is very similar to how I hold my bow.

Hmmmmm......well if that works then that works.

Go up in spine. If you are on the edge of spine. If you are a little new at this then your draw is going to get a bit longer a and stronger you advance. You really shouldn't have your finger in a danger zone but as sharp as mine are, I can understand the concern. I have a 30" draw and over the years there have been limitations in shaft length and spine with wood and carbon. Example - stiff spine wood shafts are hard to get sometimes you cut them as short as possible and I can tell that a broadhead bumping the riser will mess you up! Once when using shafts of marginal length I swapped out magnus 125 for 3 blade VPA. The back of a magnus had a forward angle. The VPA is squared off. At full drawn I pulled the arrow off the string and dry fired! So if I ever bump one, it is a panic. (Also nothing to do with the OPs question but classic nocks need to be just a little tighter for modern strings) Tedd

While I completely endorse increasing FOC for hunting arrows, I would like to share my own experiences from diving deep into that rabbit hole. First; FOC tuning is not for the budget conscious. And not just monetarily for the different shaft spines and inserts but you have to put in time; for me, lots of time. Personally I would not recommend starting this process right before hunting season starts. Sounds like you already have an arrow/broadhead combination that you are confident with for that bow weight. And I believe that confidence in your equipment is one of the most important factors in hunting situations. Second; you must realize that increasing FOC is essentially increasing total arrow weight, which decreases arrow speed, which now increases your need for accuracy in determining yardage before the shot. Focussing on a certain FOC number can get you to an arrow that is too heavy for your bow to shoot efficiently. As a self-proclaimed beginner I would advise spending your time perfecting your form and keeping your broadheads scalpel sharp will be more beneficial than worrying about FOC.

As a few others have said, before you do anything, try the 200 grains up front. It just might fly as good or better than the 150 you currently have there. And, as others have noted, you can build out the side plate a tad if they don't.

With broadheads sharpened on the back, you probably do want to keep at least an inch of arrow overhang beyond the shelf.

Next year I’d go with a stiffer spine. Adding weight to the rear defeats the purpose of trying to get high FOC. And a weak arrow will “noodle” more on impact robbing penatration. Start with a 500 long and cut down to tune if necessary plus the arrow with weigh more.

I hope you have one of these in your bag - test kit of assorted field points from 100-200 grains. (Or bum a couple 145, 175 and 200's from somebody.)

https://www.3riversarchery.com/screw-in-field-point-test-kit-5-16.html

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