So much depends on things that you haven’t told us yet.
Like “how are you measuring your DL?” just for starters .
And please don’t take this as a personal thing, since I don’t generally choose to offend people I’ve never met, but one thing I can tell you about experience is that it only counts if you have that experience while doing something correctly. I shot the wrong (too stiff) arrows for years. Didn’t learn much; didn’t do me a lot of good.
So first thing… What arrows are you shooting right now? What is the shaft or spine designation, how long are they, and have you tried shooting them as bare shafts?
I figure if you’re not planning on keeping them, there’s no harm in scraping the feathers off of a couple of them, now, is there?
That’s about as far as I’m prepared to go at this point, except to say that if you prefer an arrow which is right about 28 inches, the 2018‘s and 400 carbons recommended earlier are almost guaranteed to be too stiff. You could probably get the 2018‘s to function if you were willing to put a heavy enough point on them, but that shaft is heavy enough to begin with.
I just happen to own a pair of recurves and a longbow all marked #55@28” and they all shoot a 28” 2016 with 125 up front quite well. The LB will also shoot a 1916 to at least 20 yards, bare shaft. They will also all shoot 27 3/4” carbons - 500s with 200 up front and the LB also shoots 600s with 175s, as does a faster LB marked #50. And I have an old #46 Thunderbird which has shot extremely well for me off of a Weatherest with those same 600s and 150 grain points.
If you’re convinced that it’s not your form causing you to hit to the right (assuming you’re right-handed), the good news is that you should be able to build out the strike plate on that bow until you get the arrows flying down the middle. The one that’s hitting left, you could remove everything but the finish from your sideplate (maybe a piece of tape to prevent scratching) and see where it hits. If you’re still hitting Left, you could keep on trying heavier points until the problem goes away, but at that rate you may find that your arrow velocity changes enough from one bow to the other that you can’t just switch back and forth without having to re-set your gap, whether consciously or not.
But at least you would be down to just having to swap out points depending on which bow you’re shooting on a given day, rather than needing a whole second set of arrows.
OTOH, a second set of arrows for the second bow has 2 big advantages: 1) You can get set up so that both bows are properly tuned and shooting very nearly the same velocity and 2) it’s nice when you run low on ammo for the one and you can just go shoot the other because you’re not out of arrows for both bows at once…