| From: Boker
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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I got some Douglas fir shafts in so I am attempting to crest 3 trail and error arrows.
painted crown with white hobby lobby acrylic paint and was happy with those results.
Tried to use a yellow of the same type paint for cresting a band.
Thinned paint with water enough so it flowed well from brush but it was too thin and ran when I hung shaft to dry.
I continued to experiment with the paint thickness.however it was either to thin and ran or to thick and didn’t flow well
Y’all got any pointers?
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| From: bodymanbowyer
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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I've never thinned my craft paint for creating.I always flowed fine. JF
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| From: Osr144
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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I tried acrylic an my last batch and had similar problems.You really need to only thin the paint just enough or as you found out it doesn't cover well.I finally got reasonable results but took a few attempts.I am going back to oil based paint.I probably should persist cause some folk have it down pat.It did work but I can't get repeatable paint consistancy.Oils have worked better for me but take a lot longer to dry . Osr
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| From: Jim Principi
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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Can you put water based sealer over oil based paint?
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| From: JusPassin
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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I've crested hundreds of arrows over the years. I've tried various paints and always come back to the little bottles of testors paints. Just never have found anything that works as well. Once dry I seal over them with a water based clear poly.
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| From: crazyjjk
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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Testers for me too. I use to make arrows as a business. It was and always has been testers.
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| From: bentstick54
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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I crown dip with Bohning white lacquer and the band/stripe with Testors paint with no problems.
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| From: aromakr
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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Boker: I spent 25+ years making custom wood arrow commercially and used nothing but acrylic enamel paint. and never had a problem, yes it usually needs thinning but only a few drops per ounce of paint. I think the brush you use is more important than the thinning. buy the best camel or sable hair brushes you can afford; you want them to be super soft. Take care of them they will last a lifetime.
Bob
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| From: Osr144
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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Thanks Bob I will take that on.Once I thinned the paint just a little it flowed and covered good .You have given me a guide to ratio of thinning required.The brush tip is good too.You are the man when it comes to arrows.Thanks Bob
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| From: M60gunner
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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I have had mixed results using the water based Testors paints. Couldn’t get some of the colors to flow out like paint was to thin. I have found I like Tamiya paints. Not water based. The solids in the red, black, silver I have had for about a year haven’t settled in bottom of bottle like Bohning paints or the water based paints. I haven’t needed to thin either. Unfortunately my color choices are limited as these paints are mostly flat for painting military models.
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| From: JusPassin
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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Didn't know testors made water based, never seen them.
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| From: Boker
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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Thanks for the input.l guys. I will keep fiddling till something works for me.
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| From: aromakr
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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Alot of the hobby paints have now been re-formulated to be air- brushed and are way too thin for cresting.
Bob
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| From: goldentrout_one
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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I use True North water-based paint - you can thin it with water, and cleaning brushes is a snap. I find it's better to be too thin than too thick to avoid drips or runs. The downside is, you may have to do two or three coats to get good results, and it seems to work best if you wait a full 24hrs between coats. I always set down a white primer coat. Aromaker's comment about the quality of the brushes, I totally agree with.
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| From: Harleywriter
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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Auto pinstriping brush is best I have found for cresting, especially fine lines
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| From: M60gunner
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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I also believe what is said about the brushes. I have my wife help me pick out the brush that goes with the paints I use. Yes, they cost more but I have had some of mine forever. I assume you have a decent cresting machine? Especially for doing wood shafts. I use one like Bob used to market and use. Basically bulletproof. Also have a Spinrite that I like.
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| From: trad_bowhunter1965
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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Like you I used hobby lobby acrylic paint for crowning but now I use True North paints for crown dipping and I also now dip the whole shaft. Not that True North is better just easier to use. I still uses tester paints for cresting, The greatest tip that I was given for make arrow it was by Al Kimery " your just painting wood"
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| From: Boker
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| Date: 05-Jul-22 |
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have a spinrite.
I just pick up brushes at hobby lobby for the paint I am trying. After reading y’all’s comments I went out and practice some on an old shaft.
believe one of the issues may be the brushes are to stiff though they really don’t feel it. I will look for some better brushes.
I also have paint pens and got best results with it tonight.
Like the water based stuff for easy clean up and it be nice to be able to pick up supplies locally.
not trying for perfection but of course want them to look good.
I’ll continue to experiment. Thanks guys.
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| From: reddogge
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| Date: 07-Jul-22 |
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Some of the Testors colors required two coats to cover well but that wasn't too much of a problem.
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| From: aromakr
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| Date: 07-Jul-22 |
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A tip always put a white undercoat under colors to get the true color.
Bob
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| From: Boker
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| Date: 07-Jul-22 |
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Thanks Bob.
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| From: bodymanbowyer
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| Date: 07-Jul-22 |
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X2 Bob, especially Yellowstone or fluorescent colors. JF
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| From: jaz5833
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| Date: 08-Jul-22 |
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X3 Bob and a good brush.
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| From: Nemah
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| Date: 08-Jul-22 |
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I guess I’m just old fashioned, but I’ve never used acrylic paints on my arrows. I began making arrows in the early 1950’s and have always used oil based products. Here’s my routine: after straightening the shafts, I taper the point and nock using my 12” disc sander with a few simple jigs. I then sand the shafts with 220, then 400 grit paper. Alligator clips hold the point of the shafts as I dip them in oil based Minwax poly thinned with a little paint thinner. When dry, I sand lightly with 400 grit paper and dip them again, this time the clips hold the nock of the shaft. When completely dry, I then mark where the crown dip will end and scuff up that area with steel wool or a Scotchbrite pad. I use Rustoleum thinned with paint thinner for all my crowns. I crest my arrows with One Shot automotive pin striping paint thinned with paint thinner. I buy all my brushes at an artists supply store, and never put a protective coating on the completed shafts. There is something pleasing about the scent of building arrows, the aroma of Port Orford Cedar, oil based poly and paints, paint thinner and Duco cement.....the only glue I ever use. This process has always worked for me.....and always will. Richard
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