So I’m looking to buy limbs for my warf build. I have a 19.75” riser and I’d like to end up with a 62” bow 45@27. Two questions…

1. Would medium 50 lb limbs get me there?

2. Is there a chart that shows riser length in relation to bow lengt/draw weight?

Riser pic attached

You should measure center to center the limb bolts and add 5". That will give you your actual riser length. It probably will be around 19" so medium limbs will give you a 62" bow. It depends on the limb manufacturer as to how they weigh their limbs to determine your final weight. Some are rated on a 25" riser and some on a 17" and some on 19" risers.

The catch is that most of the charts are based on regular Olympic length risers and limb pad angle is a factor as well.

Using Olympic/ILF type math if you put 50lb. limbs on a 19.75 say 20" riser they should gain about 5lbs. so they would be more like 55 at 28".

I would opt for 45lb. limbs and hope the limb pad angle made the off set.

in case I know anything about it, which riser are you using?

Thanks for the chart.

I’m looking at trad tech limbs. Anyone know what those are based on?

Selstickbow it’s a Myles Keller legend gtx riser

Yes, they are rated on a 17" riser so you would lose approx. 2 pounds going to your riser.

Perfect. 50 should put me right on.

Thanks

thanks, I got zero experience with the Myles Keller riser. good luck.

I bought it cuz the price was right and it said it’d work for a warf. Plates are a little too big so they’re at a machine shop getting milled til they press fit in the pocket. The way the riser is you kinda have to use an elevated rest. That’s fine with me cuz I was curious about the impact on accuracy and i shoot straight up and down with gap anyway. Should be a cool project if I can get it dialed it’ll probably be my main hunting rig this year. In a perfect world I’d like to kill one with this warf and hunt late season with the hickory self recurve I made over the winter. We’ll see if the universe has other plans… but “shoot for the moon so if you come up short you land in the stars.”

I hope you show pictures here with shooting results when you get it running. ?

Yeah as long as it turns out I’ll do a build on my YouTube

Wait. I think you also need to look at the angle degrees of the riser. Depending on the angle of the limb pockets, you might get less or more poundage. Here is a picture of a Satori, Morrison, and Bear BlackBear. You can tell its not exactly similar.

Are you thinking mine will be more or less? Lancaster said they'll let me return within 15 days if it isn't right, not ideal but I guess there's that option.

I found a picture of your riser, if its wrong let me know. But based on the angle of the pockets, you MIGHT get more poundage from limbs. I am no expert, but I think if its more angled deflexed, it would be less poundage. But I guess you would have to find out once you scale it.

That is my riser. I think you're right about deflex. It's tough for me to say for sure without putting them side by side. I think I'll just have to check it to see for sure. I'll post up when I check wieghts.

Thanks for posting the pics

Less limb pocket angle the more poundage. What I am curious about is brace height. Looks like it’s goin to be pretty low. Is there any adjustments for limb pocket angle? I have an old Proline riser similar in looks to that one that has adjustable limb pocket angle.

M60gunner bring up another really good point.

That grip is really far back. From what I understand when grip is far in front the bow is more forgiving. You might be stressing the limbs or pre-loading the limbs a lot. please test extensively.

yeh the Prolines gain more pounds quicker thn say a Black Bear or Rambo. this riser pictured looks like it will/could likely go more pounds than Proline too......since it LOOKS to be steeper angles and a lot more reflex. NICE that you cn try & exchangle limbs easily with LAS; that will let you get the pounds you need through trial and error. nothing is easy, it will be great and you learn a bit as you go. and it isn't costing an arm & leg, and will shoot great.

Not trying to jack thread that's not my style but question. Somewhat confused. Is a warf build the same as a Frankenbow ? But shorter with less lb pull ???... Here to learn and share .

" warf build the same as a Frankenbow" No..a WARF is a bow based on converting a compound riser to accept ILF fitted limbs. A Frankenbow is a bow based on converting a compound riser to use bolt on limbs.

Thank you fdp for clarification.

What do you need to do to make a frankenbow? I'm committed to ilf but I'm sure I'll need another project at some point.

I use the same risers that would be used for a WARF and just use bolt on limbs. I use ILF limbs with the fittings removed to make them straight bolt ons', bolt on factory limbs etc.

I do modify the limb pockets by adding a lateral adjustment screw that is used to center the limbs since limb butts are of different widths.

sooo ALSO - - ILF limbs that are bolted down snug on a Frankenbow (without ILF fittings in limbs) are set at one pounds & tiller setting.....if I am right....having NOT DONE much of that. SAME limbs on an ILF WARFed riser (I've done a LOT of this) will have tiller & draw length adjustments via tiller bolts, and a pounds range of around 4 pounds or so.

^^^^^^That is accurate^^^^^^

warfing with ILF and DAS format warfs is more what I am used to. I HAVE DONE a small amount of bolting DOWN ILF limbs and I kind of see the attraction. "we don't need no stinking adjustments" kind of philosophy.

The DAS connection system usually gives one even more range on poundage adjustment, and it is more quiet than ILF.

The riser you have will make a recurve that looks like the PSE Coyote or the Martin Jaguar. These are risers have a lot of reflex similar to the current compound bows, which is why it seems that compound shooters like them looks of them. The problem is that they may stack and be unstable/jerky and unforgiving.

Proline risers have a bit of reflex, which makes them a good candidate for short draw length folk.

Frankenbows are typically made using Samick Sage type limbs. Ilf limbs don't normally fit old compound risers without some modifications. They do however bolt right down to Hoyt Gamemaster and Dorado risers with only a bushing swap.

Frankenbows are usually compound bows parts modified together to make it work.

Warf is taking a compound bow riser and mortifying it so that the limb pockets accept recurve limbs. This is usually done to old compound bows with cracked limbs that are no longer made or impossible to find. So they are reborn as recurve bow, usually by using Samick/PSE/etc limbs which are mostly compatible. The newer compound bows are not able to do this because their designs are much more parallel.

Here is my warf bow, its an old PSE bow from yard sale that had cracked limbs. It accepted Samick Sage limbs perfectly.

WARF bows are ILF compatible period.

Bob Gordon coined the term, he started the trend by popularizing the riser modification, and his dogs name was Warf. That's where the name came from.

If it doesn't accept ILF it isnta WARF.

I've never had to do any more modification to a riser to bolt ILF limbs on it and make a Frankenbow other than the addition of the lateral adjustment screw than I did to create a Warf without using plates.

Interesting,

My apologies!

I was aware that Bob Gordon coined the term warf. But I did not know that it is only considered a warf if its only ilf limbs.

Learned another fine tuned detail of history today!

Fdp can you post pics of the lateral adjustment on your frankenbow?

Cash here is a link to a short "how to" that I did in 2018 on installing the lateral adjustment screws. I have since refined the process somewhat.

https://leatherwall.bowsite.com/TF/lw/thread2.cfm? threadid=302543&category=88#4450623

For those that bolted down ILF limbs to a riser, how did the rockers affect things? Also, wouldn't those limbs be at maximum preload? Just curious.

frank I couldn't get that too work when I pasted it. I found another franken thread though. I think I get the idea...something to put on the to do list in 6 months when I'm bored with this one lol

I don't use the rockers. Never saw the need. Limbs may or may not be at maximum pre-load FOR THE LIMB depending on the design of the riser they were originally designed for.

Pre-load is easily adjusted same as it is on an ILF fitted limb by backing out the limb bolt. Learned that from Harold Groves many years ago.

Frnk, I think Reddogge might have been referring to the LIM rockers not riser rockers. So do you adjust limb bolts for tiller & pounds to suit you with Frankenbows same as people do with ILF? If yes, I had not read that you do this, before now, since you've mentioned before (I think ) that you use ILF limbs as bolt-downs on F-bows.....which to me would mean you button down the limb bolts. Still learning here.

Selstickbow, you certainly can adjust the limbs for tiller and draw weight using the limb bolts although in all honesty I typically don't. I normally do have the limbs snugged down tight and yes I do use ILF limbs as bolt ons'.

I know that many folks have some apprehension about adjusting the limbs with the limb bolts which is fine, and is one of the reasons I rarely mention it. Simply don't want the drama. But as I said, I was shown that method a long time ago and it has never caused me a problem.

OK, seems like IN MY MIND anyway - with ILF or DAS there is the ILF fitting secured in riser channel or DAS bushing there, securing limb to riser, if limb bolts not snugged down. With Frnkenbow, with bolts NOT snugged, and no ILF fitting in holes, simply string pressure holds limbs to riser? since limbs' U-slots are loose on bolts, if bolts are out 2 or 3 turns. Not a concern? Saying I can see it NOT being a real concern, loose limbs, with Frankenbows.... Sky Hunter Supreme has limb bolts a bit loose on U-slots and simply uses a limb BUSHING in a divot - sort of loose, not secured, so it uses no real secure limb to riser connection. Earl Hoyt evidently was not concerned. I've done this before myself with ILF limbs and RAMBO risers....lengthened the U-slot a a bit to get the ILF fitting HOLE ( DAS bushing) to sit in the riser divot where the SUPREME bushing would fit. And I have adjusted tiller to be even, so bolts are not down real hard. No problems. But these are (Ilf) rockered limbs, where the SUPREME limbs were squared-flat butt limbs / no rockers. Just looking and learning.....ramblings on a rainy day.

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