Soak them in danish oil for a week or so, wipe them off and let them dry for several weeks. With cedar, they need to hang dry for a month. I pick up 50-60 grains. I then wipe on waterborn poly.

If you drill a hole into the tip end of the shaft you could place a finishing nail (or part of one) into it. It will be "weight forward" and good for hunting. Frank

Both of the above work, though soaking in oil doesn't work as well with Doug fir as it does with POC. Also rather a pain to do. Need to bnuild a soak tube and then let the shafts dry for a month or so, wiping them off periodically.

I made myh own jig for drilling holes in the ends of the shafts, but Three Rivers also sells a jig to drill straight, centered holes in the ends of shafts to insert some kind of weight-- usualy brass rod, though a nail will also work, just not as heavy.

Of course, might also consider woody weights or just using a heavier point on the lighter shafts.

I’ve got a jig and I’ve drilled quite a few shafts to add weight behind the point. My experience shows it doesn’t do much to affect spine like adding a heavier point does. I think because it’s internal and not just on the end.

Back when a couple of us used Gasket Laq. as a final finish. By adding more coats of it we were able to get our shafts up to weight of heavier shaft. But 75 grains is alot of weight to add on even using latex house paint unthinned. Did that once ended up with logs.

You aren't going to do it without adding weight like the guys above said.

Soaking in oil will indeed add weight to the shafts. However, it won't addv75 hrs. and it won't add a consistent amount of weight to each shaft. Due to the differences in the density of the grain the each shaft effectively soaks up a different amount of weight, producing a some times wide range of different weights.

Don't know whether that is or isn't acceptable to the OP or not. But the one sure way to make all the shafts match, and add the exact amount of weight is by using the method mentioned above.

I used to soak POC shafts in a PVC tube under pressure. That would drive more oil into the shaft and they came out on average 100 grains heavier than when I put them in. However, they then bled as they dried for the next several weeks, such that I ended up with a net gain of 50-75 grains per shaft. As fdp notes, it's not even across shafts. Some gain more than others. An additional benefit of soaking, if you soak them under pressure and/or long enough, you don't need any other finish after they dry.

I also noted that POC soaked up the oil better than Doug fir. Don't believe I ever achieved 50 grains of net weight gain with Doug fir. But give it a try and see how it works for you.

Or. Just shoot them

Using something like Minwax wood hardener apparently works better since it sets up in the wood a bit faster than Danish oil.

There was an article in PA on this technique many years ago.

The weight increase was pretty consistent.

I’ve found over the years, that having really consistent, quality shafts ( I use vintage Acme premiums ). Soaking them for at least 14 days and letting them fry for a month. I could usually get them within 5 grains of one another

I got these 11/32 tapered Acme shafts to with 5 grains and with 190 grain points, they weight around 675 grains. I would think using those surewoods, which are a consistent shaft, would yield similar results. Yes, you’re going to get a “flyer” out of every dozen or so, but the extra weight is worth it.

The easiest method I've found for obtaining consistency in shafts is to match all of the shafts within a group, whether that group is 12 or 100 to the lightest shaft.

I find the lightest shaft. Go ahead and do my barrel or whatever taper I'm going to use on that batch on the lightest shaft. Then make them all match.

Sometimes I'll end up with arrows that have 23/64 nocks all the way dlwn to 5/16 nocks from the same main group because of taking more material off some and less off others. Then I separate those into smaller groups from the main group of say 100, grouping all the shafts with similar nock and point diameters together. Although in actual usage having a dozen arrows with mixed nock and point sizes makes no difference in accuracy at all, or at least not enough for a human to notice shooting them as long as spine and physical weight are consistent.

That's the way wood shafts have been matched for 100's of years.

Imma guess you could also add several coats of polycrylic, which has the advantage of drying very fast. Waiting around for oil to dry is about as fun as waiting for water to come to a boil on an alcohol stove.

Baylee, answers aren't just for you, other people will read the thread. You could try a different approach in the future like: "How to add 75 grains to my personal arrows" If that bothers you. Or maybe they could add another dongle at the top to go with the debate or not dongle, like "it's just about me".

Use a heavier wood! Ash,Hickory,Maple....etc.

Off topic. I match my arrow spine. However at the twenty five yards and in (short range) I regularly shoot I see no accuracy variance of 50 grains or so. If I regularly shot longer range, or was a stellar shot, I WOULD look at matching weight.

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