Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


1820 opinions

Messages posted to thread:
sir misalots 11-Dec-21
MikeT 11-Dec-21
Pdiddly2 11-Dec-21
George D. Stout 11-Dec-21
George D. Stout 11-Dec-21
sir misalots 11-Dec-21
Riverwolf 11-Dec-21
Jon Stewart 11-Dec-21
Riverwolf 11-Dec-21
Corax_latrans 11-Dec-21
Ray Hill 11-Dec-21
Stix 11-Dec-21
sir misalots 11-Dec-21
fdp 11-Dec-21
reb 11-Dec-21
Pdiddly2 11-Dec-21
Biathlonman 11-Dec-21
Viper 11-Dec-21
Boker 11-Dec-21
KyStickbow 12-Dec-21
bowhunt 12-Dec-21
Jim 12-Dec-21
Viper 12-Dec-21
Stix 12-Dec-21
Riverwolf 12-Dec-21
Chairman 12-Dec-21
From: sir misalots
Date: 11-Dec-21




Im going to a 40 LB bow. Just wondering if anyone shoots 1820's? I heard they are tough shafts.

From: MikeT
Date: 11-Dec-21




40#, you might want to try a 1916, by buddy tried them out on his 40# and they were like darts. I use the 1916`s on a 38# too.

I bet the 1820`s are tough

From: Pdiddly2
Date: 11-Dec-21

Pdiddly2's embedded Photo



Unless you have a long draw or leave the arrows long they would be fairly stiff.

I draw 27" and use them cut to 28" in bows that are 45-50# with 125 grain heads.

This is my group with a 50# Mamba with a low-stretch string at 22 yards.

They do hit hard and are tough!

From: George D. Stout
Date: 11-Dec-21




At what arrow length. Kind of important.

From: George D. Stout
Date: 11-Dec-21




Ahhh, the old hit hard statement. That's likely because they are 12.25 grains per inch, nearly identical to a 2018 in mass. So what is it you want? More mass will be quieter, most likely, and also slower. But at 40# they may likely be too stiff unless you are at 30" and draw a full 28". Depends on the bow as well, and the string....and centershot...and??????????

From: sir misalots
Date: 11-Dec-21




george, since I just got the bow Im not sure. But Im gessing minimum 29.5.

From: Riverwolf
Date: 11-Dec-21




I "think" these are stock length of only 29.5-30" so there is that;)

I Tried these with 45#-50# (longbow & recurve)bows cut just before center and with calf hair material...WAY WEAK! Yes , I could have built the plate out..etc...but didn't care to do that.

My brother shot a 40# Alaskan that was near center cut..tuned perfectly to that bow. That small dia...will spine lighter ..due to that mico dia. the .592 spine is misleading. Least for me it did ;)

They are some tough shafts and @ 12.20 gpi will pack a punch ;)

From: Jon Stewart
Date: 11-Dec-21




1916's

From: Riverwolf
Date: 11-Dec-21




I wouldn't "disagree" with a 1916's working either. Its a VERY universal shaft with its spine and small dia./wall thickness. The combination of those traits allows it to work in a wide variety of spines/weights in my experience. Though its durability as a roving shaft is questionable ;^))

Any aluminum with the last two numbers(wall thickness) of 18-20 or larger is one "tough" shaft .......

From: Corax_latrans
Date: 11-Dec-21




I have two main questions about these… First is whether you can use a standard size nock with the skinny arrows… (Or do you have to go to an extra skinny string to use the undersized nocks?)

And can you get RPS inserts for them so that you can use whatever point you want?

From: Ray Hill
Date: 11-Dec-21




I just switched the small throat nocks and went to the large throat nocks and use the same string. And second question,yes they have RPS inserts so you can use whatever point you want.I just bought a bag of 100 from 3 Rivers.

Regards,Ray

From: Stix
Date: 11-Dec-21




Run the 3 Rivers dynamic spine calculator to get a starting point for req'd spine. Amount cut past center has the most dramatic effect on arrow spine required, moreso that actual draw weight.

From: sir misalots
Date: 11-Dec-21




looking at the 3r calculator 1916 might be a better option. But since this is a vintage bow Im tempted to go with wood.

From: fdp
Date: 11-Dec-21




1820's are one of my favorites. We have scads ofcthem around here and have used them for years.

One of the reasons folks get a weak indication is because of their small diameter. Like any other arrow shaft if you don't tune the bow and arrow together they shoot terrible.

1916's, 2016's and any other shaft or material will give you the same result if you don't tune for them.

From: reb
Date: 11-Dec-21




I have never used 1820. I do used 1816 or 1916's out of my 40 lb longbow. they both fly great. I have them cut to28 & 1/4 with 125 gr.

From: Pdiddly2
Date: 11-Dec-21

Pdiddly2's embedded Photo



Based on my actual experience using these arrows in a dozen different bows they would be too stiff for a 40# bow. I use 1816’s in 41-45# bows.

I use Deep-Six nocks as they are stronger and accept standard width strings.

Picture is a 52# Howatt Monterey with 28” 1820’s. I draw 27” so 50# at my draw. That’s good arrow flight.

From: Biathlonman
Date: 11-Dec-21




I loved the idea of them but they are heavy in physical weight for what they spine, about #53 if I recall correctly. I couldn’t get them to tune off of bows over about #35 and therefore were pretty darn heavy for such a light bow. Plus I was paying extra for inserts and new nocks to fit my strings and by the time I did that the “value” in them fell behind more common arrows like 2016…

From: Viper
Date: 11-Dec-21




SM -

A full length 1820 spines to about 53#. Your call.

Viper out.

From: Boker
Date: 11-Dec-21




I don’t know how some of you guys do it but I do have a 30” draw and shoot a 30.5/31” arrow.

31” - 2016’s with 125gr point on my bear takedown [email protected]” bare shaft weak.

From: KyStickbow
Date: 12-Dec-21




I use 29” 1816’s out of my 40# bows. I draw 27”…they have always flown great for me.

From: bowhunt
Date: 12-Dec-21




I would think at a true 30 inches draw,45#s and a 30.5/31 inch long arrow you would show 2016s to be weak out of your Bear.

Those long arrows and your long draw make a big difference when comparing to a 28 inch draw and 29 inch arrow that alot of guys would be using 2016s successfully out of 45 # Bear T.Ds.

From: Jim Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 12-Dec-21




1816 or 1916

From: Viper
Date: 12-Dec-21




Guys -

Lets be clear. Sure and 1816 or a 1916 can "fly great" from a 40# bow, but only one will TUNE from that weight bow.

Then there's whole "tuning" debate.

Viper out.

From: Stix
Date: 12-Dec-21




It's pretty hard for someone to estimate what exact spine arrow would be required for any bow without knowing it's center cut measurements. If you look at any of the spine calculators, the spine required changes by 5#'s for each 1/16" cut past or before center. Then throw in length of arrow, draw length, string material, point weight which changes.

Sure experience talks loud, but these calculators talk loudest with all factors combined.

From: Riverwolf
Date: 12-Dec-21




Point on Steve...the shafts spine is a "starting point"...lots of variables determine how far left-right or center of that initial spine number one has to go ;) Charts are excellent 'starting" points. As in they will usually get you within 1 spine either side of a given(3 spines with wood/aluminum) which one or all of them is dependent upon several things . Which all of those can be yet influenced by more "things";)

From: Chairman
Date: 12-Dec-21




I tried unsuccessfully to tune 1820’s from a 45 pound bow and I have a 30” draw. Would shoot ok with field points but broad heads were a disaster.





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