Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Spray-can carbon prep?

Messages posted to thread:
Corax_latrans 09-Dec-21
Rough Run 09-Dec-21
Rough Run 09-Dec-21
Corax_latrans 09-Dec-21
Boker 09-Dec-21
Corax_latrans 09-Dec-21
Boker 09-Dec-21
Snow Crow 09-Dec-21
Corax_latrans 09-Dec-21
Rough Run 10-Dec-21
grizzly63 10-Dec-21
Corax_latrans 11-Dec-21
[email protected] 11-Dec-21
Corax_latrans 11-Dec-21
Suedog 11-Dec-21
M60gunner 11-Dec-21
Corax_latrans 11-Dec-21
From: Corax_latrans
Date: 09-Dec-21




Santa needs a few tips from the Elves….

So…. Got some 700 Warriors I’d like to dress up a little. Just like a rattle-can cap-dip, if that makes sense.

Any special prep required?

From: Rough Run
Date: 09-Dec-21




I recommend a simple with of the cap area with denatured alcohol or acetone, no roughing required. Then, use an All-Purpose Bonding Primer spray, and match the brands - Krylon to Krylon, Rustoleum to Rustoleum. The primer is white, which helps the cap color be brighter. And top-coat with spray Polycrylic - it won't yellow with age, like other sprays. That's how I do my shafts, including Warriors.

From: Rough Run
Date: 09-Dec-21




Should read, "simple wipe". Sorry for the typo.

From: Corax_latrans
Date: 09-Dec-21




So the spray polycrylic… Does it matter which brand you get for that?

And then I’m assuming that you can use super glue on top of that….

I have to say, I am looking forward to seeing the (relatively) new rustoleum reflective spray paint show up in my local hardware store…

From: Boker
Date: 09-Dec-21




I have done a few sets. I slightly sanded with 400grit then cleaned really well denatured alcohol. My issue was I am not really steady and I never got a even coat

I wasn’t ever happy with my work but I have seen plenty that look great.

Dan has a good YouTube vid on the subject. He used his cresting machine to spin shaft as he sprayed them.

I do think the spray can method is better than wraps in the sense of weight. My one stringer wraps are super easy to install and look great with many options but add roughly 20grs to the rear of shaft.

I weighed a shaft before and after with the spray on crown. weight difference was minimal.

From: Corax_latrans
Date: 09-Dec-21




Well, weight is another good reason I’m looking at paint. With a lighter bow, I don’t want to sandbag him with an unnecessarily heavy arrow. I just have a feeling that they’ll be a lot easier to find if I cap them.

And pardon my ignorance, but Dan who?

From: Boker
Date: 09-Dec-21




Sorry here’s a link to vid.

https://youtu.be/qY6tXY6n73Q

From: Snow Crow
Date: 09-Dec-21




Simple wipe with 100% acetone will suffice if you do not wish to sand. I use cheapie jumbo cotton balls briefly held (tightly!) under tipped bottle. One hard swipe on the entire area of the shaft to be painted and done.

I heartily second Rough Run's advice to match primer and paint brands.

From: Corax_latrans
Date: 09-Dec-21




Thanks! Looks like now the call is to figure out how to fake the crester….

From: Rough Run
Date: 10-Dec-21




Corax, I used the Minwax Polycrylic. I don't know about other brands but, the Minwax polyurethane I used on other shafts yellowed rather quickly, like within 4 months, to the plainly noticable point. Side-by-side comparison was stunning to me! No yellowing with Polycrylic. And yes, super glue adheres to it. I would also recommend at least 3 coats of the Polycrylic top coat. I have steel-wooled between coats, and also done nothing between coats - I can't tell one bit of difference between the 2, except that not steel-wooling was a lot faster! I do mine by hand, cap too, and spray light coats. I tried to use a spinner and my results were terrible.

From: grizzly63
Date: 10-Dec-21




roll the arrow along a table with painted end off the table

From: Corax_latrans
Date: 11-Dec-21




Actually, that was my first thought… Keep it simple!

Just had to figure out how to do it without painting anything that’s not supposed to get painted in the process!! LOL

From: [email protected]
Date: 11-Dec-21




I spray crown carbons a lot. I just clean with acetone and spray. Trick for me is to do a super light coat first. You should still see the shaft through the paint. Continue with light coats until full coverage+. I spray with clear after I crest. For whatever reason the cheap Ace hardware paint gives me a smoother finished product than the more expensive Krylon or Rustoleum.

From: Corax_latrans
Date: 11-Dec-21




I think patience & many coats makes good sense; I was really surprised to see the guy with the crester run it at such high revs and go so heavy with the one coat…

I’m wondering about finding a way to hang them on a string with a weight so I could give it a spin to wind it up…. Which would allow for some drip-dry, perhaps…. In case I overdo it… which is not unforeseeable….

From: Suedog
Date: 11-Dec-21




I use blue painters tape a good 10" up shaft from paint areas to spray white Kilz base layer with spray can 12-14" off shaft. I install field point and spin with a drill while spraying well away from downwind vehicles, boats, bows, and small children.

From: M60gunner
Date: 11-Dec-21




I use the Spinrite method of spraying carbons and woods. I wipe the carbons down with Acetone, no it an’it gona hurt the shaft. I used to tape it like mentioned above until I found an old aluminum shaft that fits over the carbon shaft. Less taping. I use Rustolem 2X for outdoor use, one coat. I had an experience trying to two coat. I didn’t allow the first coat to cure . Rustolem says a minimum of 5 days before trying a second coat. Lesson learned. Should have read the directions from their website. I have done them just standing them up in my rack. Made a pass over all the shafts then turned them for a pass on other side. Temptation here is to over spray. Lite spots can be touched up after a coming back to start.

From: Corax_latrans
Date: 11-Dec-21




Good thought to mask with an old 2117…. Plenty of those around here ;)





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