| From: Arrowhead
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| Date: 26-Oct-21 |
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I realize it's not a selfbow but should I bone out the Ipe belly (compress the fibers) like I would do to a osage selfbow? I've never made a bamboo backed ipe bow before so any help would be helpful.
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 26-Oct-21 |
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Personally I burnish the back and belly of every bow I build and my wood arrows too.
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| From: Arrowhead
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| Date: 26-Oct-21 |
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So I should burnish the bamboo also?
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| From: PEARL DRUMS
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| Date: 26-Oct-21 |
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Don't burnish the boo, it will only possibly damage the fibers. No reason to burnish the ipe either. Its already hard as a rock with no real grain to compress anyway.
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 26-Oct-21 |
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I don't think you need to burnish the bamboo because you shouldn't be disturbing the fibers on the outside of the bamboo.
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| From: Runner
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| Date: 26-Oct-21 |
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There may be benefits to burnishing some materials but Osage, Ipe and Bamboo are not any of those.
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| From: Iktomi
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| Date: 12-Dec-21 |
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Ipe" is super dense and a great pairing with bamboo. Nothing to be gained by trying to burnish it
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| From: Iktomi
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| Date: 12-Dec-21 |
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Ipe" is super dense and a great pairing with bamboo. Nothing to be gained by trying to burnish it
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| From: UK Woodman
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| Date: 12-Dec-21 |
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Other advice just in case you hav'nt done any research about Ipe. Use an epoxie two part glue to bond wood to Bamboo as its a oily wood. Sometimes it can have bad opposing grain which makes it a frustrating bow build. I Once had an extreame allergic reaction to the Ipe dust but I was using a lot of it and not for bow making. good luck with your bow build.
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| From: Onehair
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| Date: 13-Dec-21 |
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IPE does not take well to a radiused belly. Once made they are the most durable I have ever used. I have one that I did a terrible job on the tiller and I use it as a string stretcher. After being strung for 2 or 3 days it won't take a set. The splinters are excellent. You can keep them for months.
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| From: Runner
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| Date: 13-Dec-21 |
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Why won't it take to a radiused belly? I round off all my Ipe bows.
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| From: Jeff Durnell
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| Date: 13-Dec-21 |
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I radius the bellies of ALL of my bows, well, cept for fiberglass ones. If they're lesser woods, they just get squashed down wider and thinner, maybe a bit longer too, but their bellies are fully radiused/curved. Not a flat spot on em anywhere. Ain't used a wood yet that has to be perfectly flat. Ya just adapt. Tradeoffs.
Imo, flat bellied bows just ain't done yet :^)
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| From: Arvin
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| Date: 13-Dec-21 |
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Ok but most all mine are flat these days. But as you said mass is mass for the most part.
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| From: Tim Baker
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| Date: 13-Dec-21 |
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Except for weak in tension woods, for best performance bows should have flat bellies--if a crowned-belly bow takes little set and is durable that means it could have been made narrower, for lower limb mass = less hand shock and greater arrow speed.
The few woods that are weak in tension can benefit from a crowned belly, this reducing back strain.
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| From: badger
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| Date: 27-Jan-22 |
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Another important thing to remember about ipe is not to use tightbond 2 or 3 they will work as I used it for years but tightbond 1 is a much stronger choice for ipe according to manufacturer specs.
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| From: Runner
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| Date: 27-Jan-22 |
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What will happen to them, Steve? Seems guys used TB 2 and 3 for years with Ipe and I never heard of problems apart from with riser blocks.
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| From: sagebrush
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| Date: 27-Jan-22 |
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I have a nice one of many that sam harper made for me several yrs ago,still like.new
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| From: badger
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| Date: 29-Jan-22 |
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Runner, I also used 2 and 3 with good results. Factory just suggests tightbond 1 for ipe and it shows considerably stronger strength. I have no idea why
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| From: Arvin
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| Date: 29-Jan-22 |
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Tim I agree with you. But also I find Osage for example is supposed to be real even in compression and tension. Though I am finding with my tillers if you trap the back 20-30 percent of its width mine are taking less set. That’s with a flat belly. So I don’t know. Arvin
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| From: Tim Baker
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| Date: 31-Jan-22 |
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Most woods are considerably stronger in tension than compression, so most woods can be trapped somewhat, this increasing bow performance by reducing set and lowering limb mass, and likely hysteresis as well. But how to know what % of trapping is safe for a particular wood?. A suggested method:
Take a 1" x 3/8" x 10", rectangular-section sample.Trap it to 2/3 of it's width.
Clamp 3" of one end of it to the edge of a table having a slightly rounded edge.Force the free end slowly down till the sample breaks.
If it's a tension break--a fairly lateral break across the back, the belly beneath it still intact, then 2/3 was too much.
Do the next test with 10% less trapping, and so on, till the back doesn't break in tension, then figure tapping 10% less than that, as a safety margin, is the limit for that wood.
If the first break is a normal break, both back and belly broken, then increase trap % by 10%, etc. etc.
PS: The other end of the 10" sample can be used for the second test.
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