New to wood arrows I’m having a few issues. Researched for awhile with unsatisfactory results, thought I’d just ask. I glue my nock on the shaft perpendicular to the grain, stick it in the Bitzenberger to fletch but…. I just can’t seem to get my feather orientation correct. I can’t get the position of the cock feather either out, in , or up. It seems to be rotated just a few degrees. This didn’t matter with field tips but I’d like it more uniform with BH’s. I it’s like I need to twist the nock as you would a carbon arrow. What do I need to do? Thanks guys. PS Left wing feathers, left wing clamp and indexer.

A few degrees is fine and it doesn't matter whether it's broadheads or field points. If your arrows are correct spine to your bow, you'll be fine. Most fletchers are not exactly even with the nock edge. If you must have them exactly to the nock edge, then don't glue the nocks on, just twist them tight until you get them fletched, then glue them how you want them.

That few degrees of offset is designed into the fletcher. It positions the feather for best clearance IMO. But, you can do what George said if you want to match the rear base of the feather with the nock.

What GDS said

So if your coming from carbon shafts to wood and the small nocks fit tight in the nock receiver and the wood shafts nock are loose that might be why your off a few degrees. Take the nock receiver out put a small piece of tape on the part that goes in the nock grove to make it fit tight.

The Bitzenburger dial-O-fletch has several different nock receivers that give different feather orientations. So it depends on which one you have !

Bob

Using the two knobs on the clamping base you can move the feather right or left on the shaft. Move the bottom knob so the feather is centered on the nock if you like. Then adjust the top knob to insure the feather is in full contact with the shaft. If changing from 2" feathers to 5 1/2" feathers, this contact point will need to be changed.If you can't bring the front of the feather into good contact with the shaft then you may have to move the back of the feather.

I really don't think it matters at all. As long as the base of the feather is making good contact with the shaft and is solidly glued into place your arrows should shoot great. Keep in mind that archers fletched shafts for untold thousands of years prior to a Bitz and modern glue.

Thank you Guys.

Got Photos? Might help with suggestions? Good Hunting & BLESSED BE!

I have used the Bitz for a number of years now and fletched 100's of arrows with it. I have the standard and the one marked "L" nock receivers and can't tell any difference in fletch placement. So, is there any difference or just a clever way to sell additional receivers? They also sell the "secret" receiver for 60X120 4 fletch. I have been using the standard 3 fletch receiver and getting 60X120 4 fletch by rotating the shaft 180 degrees. If any of you have the "secret" one, is there anything different or better clearance? I use the straight clamp set at a slight offset instead of helical, so maybe that is why there is no change. Tried calling them but they don't answer the phone.

Before fletching wood arrows I set the nock on the arrow with a small dot of craft hot glue stick. Once they're fletched you can remove nock and glue it at the index you like. Twisting nocks on w/out the dot of glue never worked for me and nothing disappoints like an off kilter fletching job on a finely crested wood arrow.

There is an flat head adjustment screw on the side of where you put your arrow nock (side opposite where you place the clamp). If you "loosen" that screw it should allow you to rotate the timing of the feather placement, about 1/8-1/4 (total side to side) the circumference of the shaft. Once you get it where you want it tighten the screw. Using a shaft with arrow nock attached put it in the fletcher, when you "loosen" the screw you should be able to rotate the shaft inside the fletching knob that 1/8-1/4 circumference where the throat of the nock sets. This adjustment allows you some play of the fletching's timing placement on the shaft. You will have to play with it to see how much you need. It should help you get your get your Cock Fletch's timing, in or out, depending on how you want it. If you want Cock Fletch up: There is a mark on the knob you turn for fletch placement on the shaft. That marker is up for what is normally the Cock Fletch position. Rotating the knob counter clockwise pne click to the next fletch position which is normally for a hen fletch, that would be Cock Fletch position for Cock Fletch up. I know that because I shoot Cock Fletch up. Hope this helps. DANNY

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