Although haven't received yet, its in the mail was fortunate to acquire this 1953 Bear Alaskan in this condition... Would luv to keep the original grip and leather shelf so looking for advice how to glue back down and condition the leather... Thanks

Don't think Bear made an Alaskan in 1953.

The 59 and 60 were dual shelf.

Anyway, contact cement to hold it. You can use something like Mink Oil for treating the leather to make it more supple, or perhaps saddle soap.

1958...I have one! I always try to keep original leather if possible.

Yessir, SB has it. 58 was the year the Alaskan was introduced.

Yeah, I think you guys are right... Was only going by what the seller said... Haven't had my hands on it yet so I don't know... From what I could find, the production on the Alaskans began in 1958 which were duel shelfs from 1958 - 1960s, and the 59 and 60s had black and orange glass sometimes referred to as the "Halloween Bows", so I assume it's a 1958 with black back glass and grey belly glass, because the 1961s were single shelf...

Thanks guys...

SB - What color is the back glass on yours, looks grey rather than black from the photo...

Grey glass both sides on mine....same poundage as yours!

Oops...was wrong on the poundage. Mines a bit later than yours according to the Ser.No.

I think yours was a Feb.bow and mine Aug.of '58

Lotsa people see the Canada Patent 1953 and are just sure that’s when it was made. Mostly people on the ig auction site.

That 53 patent sticker messes with lots of people. Lol they were all made in 1953. JF

What Harley said. Seen so much of that I don’t believe what’s said until I see the bow.

Yep....1953 patent is on everything until late 1972. Just went through a bunch of bows to see when it changed!

.

Once in my hand, I'll take some pix.... Thanks guys...

I have a 1950 Kodiak that says "patent applied for" on it!

H...Oct....geez i cant count any more!

Nope...I was right the first time! Someday I suppose I should actually go to bed at night!

If you.can, you need to remove the leather from the shelf and side plate.

You will be able to do a much better job of re-hydrating it. You can use Neatsfoot Oil as suggested or any number of other leather treatments. Even coconut oil is wonderful on leather.

Reattach it with double sided tape or Barge Cement.

I made templates off of one of those leather sideplate rests. Now I just make new ones if they are really bad.The trick is finding that really thin leather!

SB - How did you determine mine was built in Feb... I get "356" likely being the 356 Alaskan built that year, but haven't a clue what the "A", nor the "R B" identifies...

Is yours a duel shelf? I see the "R H", maybe "right hand"?

Ya they're dual shelf. On a lot of the old stuff they used letters to denote month built. A "B" is the second letter in the alphabet hence Feb. second month.Mine is an "H" 8th letter in alpahbet ..eighth month,Aug. This is all conjecture but follows a pattern I've been. documenting. I believe the P was just a letter designating the model. The A above your numbers is the intial of the person that scaled and marked the poundage of your bow. Some don't have that extra initial as is the case of mine. Bear changed up the way they marked bows regularly...hard to sort it all out. I have a 54 Kodiak marked EE on the glass above the leather grip. 5th letter in the alphabet...55 lbs. Ihave a mid 40's Grumley marked that way with an EJ. Fith and 10th letter tenth letter denoting a zero....50 lbs. Lots of mysterys to unravel!

Screwed up again....RB...RH ...R would be the letter denoting model! GEEZ....You should see the fiasco I'm having just typing all this. Definitly need some sleep...but the days are too short!

WAY COOL SB - Much obliged for the info!

You betcha!...Post some pics when you get it! ;)

OK. My '61 is a light yellow back with a tan belly. 43#. RH (single shelf).

-Joe

Good to see you posting more nowadays SB. :)

Been in a funk awhile George...and I've fogotten more than I know!

SB - Received my Alaskan today, thankfully it arrive Priority Mail in one piece (long story about another bow, but this one doesn't end much better...8^))

I was pleased, limbs are straight, very minimal scratches and leather is in decent shape, although the back black glass had faded a bit and showed some tiny stress cracks, BUT the real issue was bottom tip, looks like it might have been stored standing up in a damp corner or something...

Well, I bought it to shoot so might as well string it up...

Loud CRACK!

Bummer

Broke all the way up to about 15"

Well I now have $110 antique wall piece...8^)

Lesson well learned not to string old bows...

Old bows were made with old materials and methods, and being that they are nothing but a long skinnny piece of wood, or several even smaller pieces glued together then put under significant stress, its not altogether surprising that the percentage of them failed within the first year or two would be shocking today. Over time those that have aligned grain laminations, good glue joints, etc. are still around 60+ years later, but even the best are still wood and exposure too too much moisture, too much heat, etc. will be their undoing. I know well your disappointment at having one come undone while at full draw or release. The riser sections make unusual drawer pulls, gate pulls, beer tap handles, refrigerator handles, etc.

Ya ..that was was in a BAD storage situation for sure. Bummer

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here