Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Test arrow cut just a touch short.

Messages posted to thread:
pipcount 15-Oct-21
Rooty 15-Oct-21
fdp 15-Oct-21
Viper 15-Oct-21
Okiak 15-Oct-21
Jim 15-Oct-21
SB 15-Oct-21
Therifleman 15-Oct-21
SB 15-Oct-21
From: pipcount
Date: 15-Oct-21




I'd leave it alone.

A rough rule of thumb is 3" change in arrow length~ 100 change in dynamic spine or 1"~33 dynamic spine. So 1/8 or 1/4 is really really cutting stuff fine with 4-8 change in dynamic spine.

Another, rough, rule is 1gr at tip = 1 in dynamic spine. If you change your tip weight by 4-8gr you would get about same as 1/8-1/4" change. Nothing to right home about.

I struggle to tell any difference in accuracy of field points at less than a spine change of ~ 50. But I only shoot ~225/300 or so, a bit better than 6" groups typically at 20yds, on a good day 4" groups, for a real archer it maybe matters more.

I can put arrows from 400-800 spine into 9-10" at 20yds all day with a very centercut riser so things dont "bang". Fletching hides a multitude of sins.

From: Rooty
Date: 15-Oct-21




Keep shooting it and make sure. Add tip weight and confirm your suspension. 1/8 and even 1/4" are fine strokes of tuning edge. Being in the middle of the zone for me is prefered.

From: fdp
Date: 15-Oct-21




So here's the thing...nobody can give you a definitive answer to that question because "smidge is not a quantifiable measure, and we have no idea what range you are shooting from. The further you go back the more pronounced a "smidge" will become. And it could be you. Not everybody (and in fact very few people) can shoot consistently enough to get perfect bareshaft flight the majority of the time.

In my world, a "smidge" can be adjusted out with brace height adjustment, and if I were to have to cut or add weight to manipulate the arrow flight then it is off ore than a "smidge".

That being said, cut one 3/8" longer than the one you are talking about and trim from there. I personally have never seen very many people who could shoot well enough to differentiate between arrows that are 1/8" different in length and that includes me. If you are shooting with a clicker it is a thing, if you aren't it isn't.

However, whatever you think will make a difference will.

From: Viper
Date: 15-Oct-21




M-

Yes, you can lengthen arrows by using sleeves, but 1" of arrow length = about 5# of dynamic spine, so 1/4" isn't going to be noticeable. Throw some twists in the string and see if it makes any difference.

Viper out.

From: Okiak
Date: 15-Oct-21




Some other ways to adjust your bow would be switching to a high performance string, adjust the strike plate, use lighter weight silencers and/or move them towards the loops.

From: Jim Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 15-Oct-21




Agree with Viper and I’m guessing you couldn’t tell the difference anyway, unless your an Olympic class archer.

From: SB
Date: 15-Oct-21




I have to shoot 30" .600's To get good flight out of my 50# bows. Don't care for overly heavy points.

From: Therifleman
Date: 15-Oct-21




Okiak provided the best advice. If you're just a bit stiff, one ( or a combination) of his solutions may get you dialed in. Increasing brace height a bit may also help. I always work to get the best tune I can achieve.

From: SB
Date: 15-Oct-21




Oops...damned phone...thats 30" shafts out of my 40# bows!!





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