Not sure if this is anything or not or maybe it is normal. I have a bear Super K I planned on hunting with this year and give my Wallace the year off. Shooting Doug Fir out of it and instinctive, I noticed that I was about 10" higher than my wallace. My brain adjusted for it, but I could not shoot my wallace because that would hit 10" lower. No big deal, I would stick with the bear for hunting. Last night I picked up my wing gull that is lighter to work on my release and that hits 10" lower, and hits the same as my wallace. I then took my OMP Mountain hunter off the hooks and that hit the same as the Wallace, and Wing. Do any of you have a reason this bear shoots that much higher? Or is it just the way it is?

Has to do with the relationship between your reference point/anchor, the location of the arrow above center, and your eyes.

Really doesn't matter at all. But that said if you aren't aiming or acknowledging the point in relation to the target in some way how do you know it's shooting higher? You may be holding the point of the arrow higher at the time of releasem

I do not look at or reference the point at all, just where I want to hit. I know I'm hitting high because it is 10" above the bullseye or the spot I am aiming for. My brain adjusts for it after shooting a little but it just seems odd that I can be pretty close with all other bows I have shot in the past at 20 yards and under. If I shoot my wallace for a bit I will hit center. If I pick that bear up and shoot after shooting the wallace (or any of the other 2 bows) I am 10" higher.

From what you describe, the arrow must just rest higher above your hand on the Bear bow than the other bows. Since you're not using your arrow for sighting, if you place your bow hand in the same position at each shot, the most likely reason for the arrow impacting higher, all other things being equal, is it's farther away/higher from your hand.

Just like Orion said, the arrow is higher above your hand then with the other bows, as I described above. Your actual point of aim (where the arrow is pointed) is higher on the target.

That's the conclusion I came to also. Just have to shoot that bow only for the season.

You should be able to adjust. I have bows that do such things and after a few shots the one in your hand is adjusted to by the brain/body.

My brain does adjust to it after a few rounds of shooting, it's just the point that most times when I get the chance to hunt, I pick my bow up, warm up a little and go. Not enough time to re- adjust for different bows unfortunately. This having to work still gets in the way, hopefully 2 more years of it.

One more reason to use that arrow tip to aim. I can pretty much pick up any bow I own and put the first shot in the vitals

I sold a Super K one time for THAT VERY REASON! I have 8 or 9 bows I shoot often, and there is always changeover within that 8 or 9. They all shoot very closely and this includes recurves and longbows. But that Bear Super K was 10-12" high. I could NOT shoot it, so I sold it. Strange to hear this experience from someone else with a similar bow.

Not going down the distance judging and aiming road, I shoot the way I shoot because that is what I like. Mountaineer, That is interesting? I wonder if anyone else has noticed this between super k's and other bows? I thought is was strange I could pick a bow up off a rack somewhere and be pretty damn close.

Fwiw, the one I had was a new model back in 2008 or 2009, not a vintage Super K.

Mine is a new model black beauty.

Does it have an elevated arrow rest?...or shooting off the shelf?

Raise the nocking point a little.

^^^^ yep, that's what I'd try.

These things happen. It could be the way the grip places its load in your hand. Or the limbs may be mistimed. Or it may just be faster. You have some choices: Sell it, learn it, or give it some longer and heavier arrows that will not fly so high.

I have such a bow that is heavier and faster than the rest of my herd. I have been trying to learn but having trouble with it. I am going to put heavier points on a dozen arrows and see how it goes. Then maybe heavier still. A fast and efficient bow may not be a bad thing. Feed the big dog what it wants to eat! - lbg

It is shot off the shelf. The nocking point is set to where the broadheads and target points are hitting the same and no porpoising. I can and do learn the bow, just the fact that I cannot shoot the other bows while using it because of the amount of difference between that bow and my other bows. But, my Wallace is ready and willing to go if I trash the Bear SK idea. Just have to shoot it a bit to adjust my brain.

My Bear Hunter shoots a shade lower than my Martin Mamba because it’s a bit slower. Then I have a Darton that shoots much lower than both. It’s also a bit slower but also the arrow rest is lower - about even with my knuckle.

One more reason why it’s smart to stick with one bow! Seriously, I had a Necedah that shot high like you are describing. No amount of nock point adjustment helped. I ended up taking the rasp to the shelf and totally reshaping it. I shot with rests and without. It always shot higher and it didn’t matter what I changed. If you want to stay with it, shoot it exclusively until your brain doesn’t know the difference.

L -

Assuming both are being shot the same way, it's relative nock height / tiller.

Unless somethi8ng is seriously wrong with one or the other, you could play with the nock heights on both and tune (or slightly detune) the two to match.

Viper out.

I’m inclined to agree with Viper. My little Necedah blew up before I got it figured out…. Something was seriously wrong!

Viper, thought about that but my other bow that is set up is tuned perfect right now and do not want to touch it. I was mainly curious as to why this specific bow would shoot higher than any other bow I have shot. Tiller is about right, there is 1/4" difference between the top and bottom, can't remember which was stronger though?

L -

Tiller is relative. What you can measure (at the fad outs) and how the limbs flex may not be the same thing. A 1/4" difference is the high end of normal; you can always play with it after season, if you want both bows to shoot the same.

Assuming, the bow have the same draw weight and you're using the same arrows, a difference in speed could also be a factor, but again "assuming" we're talking about 20 yards or closer, doubt a speed difference of even 20 fps would cause a 10" drop.

Viper out.

It's a different bow.

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