From: ronnickel
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 30-Sep-21 |
|
I want to remove the Bear factory green camo paint from this 1966 Kmag.
I would prefer replies from someone who actually successfully removed this factory paint from this era of Bear bow WITHOUT damaging the clear coat underneath. I don't want to know about removal from other paints and other bows.
I'm trying to avoid sanding the old clear coat off the bow and damaging the silkscreens and serial # info. I have sanded many bows down to the wood and spray varnished them but I want to avoid that step if possible.
Goo Gone and rag had no effect.
|
|
From: Nemophilist
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 30-Sep-21 |
|
I used acetone and 000 or 0000 steel wool to take the paint off of my Bear Hunter TD.
|
|
|
From: fdp
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 30-Sep-21 |
|
I don't recall those bows having a clear coat under the paint ? I could be mistaken though.
|
|
From: Dan In MI
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 30-Sep-21 |
|
Some do as they were blems and camo'ed for sale.
|
|
From: 782GearUSMC
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 30-Sep-21 |
|
I have successfully used lacquer thinner with cheesecloth and OOOO steel wool.
|
|
From: Big Foot
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 10-Oct-21 |
|
The mildest solvent you can use that will not damage a clear coating is charcoal briquette lighter fluid. Dunk some 0000 steel wool in it and it should work fine. I wouldn't use lacquer thinner personally.
Kirk
|
|
From: Phil Magistro
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 10-Oct-21 |
|
Kirk, I’ve used lacquer thinner and rags to take the paint off over 20 bows. It takes elbow grease and lots of rags but I’ve never damaged the original finish under the paint.
|
|
From: Pdiddly
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 10-Oct-21 |
|
Acetone and rags. Did not harm clear coat underneath on a 1961 KMag.
It will remove the serial numbers and silkscreens as they are on top of the camo. They are not duplicated underneath.
|
|
From: Dan In MI
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 10-Oct-21 |
|
"It will remove the serial numbers and silkscreens as they are on top of the camo. They are not duplicated underneath."
Not necessarily, some camo bows were truly blems as many have stated. I have had some myself. They way to tell is to look closely at the limbs. A definite blem will have the silks screens under the camo and over. You can see the under camo silk screens. The camo is raised and they are legible. They usually are not in the exact same place so you can see them fairly easily.
On the other side of this discussion. Unless the camo is badly damaged I would not remove it. You have a relatively rarer version of whatever bow it is, that is also desirable. Sell or trade it and get a non camo version with little to no work and you also don't risk making it an unmarked Bear.
|
|
From: Babysaph
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 10-Oct-21 |
|
I’d listen to Phil Look at some of the bows he has done
|
|
From: reddogge
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 10-Oct-21 |
|
I used Formby's Furniture Restorer and Scotch Brite pads. The clear coat was dulled in the process so I had to put 12 coats of True-Oil and new decals, newly painted specs. too.
|
|
|
From: Phil Magistro
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 10-Oct-21 |
|
Rick Rappe (handle is Yorktown5) talked about a “moosh” finish where you don’t remove the old finish but you use a product like Formby’s furniture restorer to soften the old finish and remove imperfections. After drying the finish needs to be polished out.
|
|
From: SB
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 10-Oct-21 |
|
What Phil said...
|
|
|
From: redheadlover
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 11-Oct-21 |
|
I used aircraft stripper and the emblems and writing stayed in place.
|
|
From: MikeT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 11-Oct-21 |
|
I used to camo paint my bows before hunting each year, then clean the paint off with acetone. It never hurt the original bow finish which was gloss. After I got the paint off I would wax it with car wax. I wouldnt use paint stripper.
|
|
From: Harleywriter
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 11-Oct-21 |
|
What Dan in Mi said. I have a 69. Kodiak Hunter that is factory camo and it is unique in my modest collection. I always wonder what’s under the paint but not enough to strip it.
|
|
From: reddogge
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 11-Oct-21 |
|
Wait a minute, on my Kodiak the emblems and the writing were applied on top of the factory camo. How can you strip it and leave both? I stripped the finish and the emblems and specs came off with the paint.
|
|
From: Dan In MI
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 11-Oct-21 |
|
Read what I said above on 10-10.......
|
|
From: bodymanbowyer
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 11-Oct-21 |
|
Decals are relatively cheap and they are very nice. JF
|
|
From: Zbone
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 11-Oct-21 |
|
That is amazing reddogge, you got that shine out of Tru-Oil?
|
|
From: reddogge
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 12-Oct-21 |
|
Yes, put on with my finger in a pantyhose and dipped very lightly and applied. Then let it harden and sand with 1200 wet/dry sandpaper between coats.
|
|
From: Kanati
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 12-Oct-21 |
|
I like the camo. I painted my bow krylon olive drab.
|
|
From: DanaC
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 12-Oct-21 |
|
Does anyone have a good picture of a '66 K-mag so the OP has an idea what's under the factory camo? Would it be the same wood? Or maybe something with less grain and figure?
|
|
From: ronnickel
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 12-Oct-21 |
|
Oh, I know what's under it.
|
|
From: ronnickel
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 12-Oct-21 |
|
And acording to some pics, some 1966 Kmags might have the two tone from 1965.
|
|
If you have already registered, please sign in now
For new registrations Click Here
|
|
|