From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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I built another longbow. I used hickory with rawhide from my ‘19 whitetail, some Purple Heart and ash on the handle and antler tip overlays. The objective here was dial in my tillering and make more of a recurve style handle. My next bow is gonna be flip tips or recurve on a wood bow and I think that’s gonna be pretty tricky on the tiller so I spent a lot of time being real intentional. Fun project like all of them. It’s 69” long and 55@28.
I made a video of the whole build. I can never get embedding to work on here… but here’s the link to copy and paste
https://youtu.be/UGAgiKV9lSY
How to Build a Longbow Username: Cash Scott
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From: Tembo62
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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Looking good! I'm gonna ck out the youtube.
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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Looks good Mr Scott. Adding reflex to the tips or making the tips static isn't hard at all. You tiller them exactly the same way. The last 6-8" of all self bows doesn't bend, regardless of its shape. So, just tiller the same portion of the limb as you do on a straight bow like this one.
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From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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Thanks tembo
Pearl Drums thanks. I was thinking of a mock-up from pvc, so I can alter tips easily to get what I want. Then making a form. My dad cut some Osage I think that’ll probably be ready to work this winter. I was thinking heat gun. Do you like that or steam better on Osage?
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From: Jarhead
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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well done... i'm impressed
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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I use a heat gun to add simple reflexed tips and I steam tips if I plan to make them static recurves. Put 2-3 inches of water in an 8 or 10 qt stock pot. Lay the back of the bow on the pot and cover the entire pot and tip with tin foil, tight as you can. Let it slow boil for at least 25 minutes and then take it out QUICKLY and make your bend QUICKLY. It cools fast, you want your rig set up and close by so you can act as soon as its pulled off the steam. A quart paint can is a fine radius for a wood static recurve. Not too much and not too little.
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From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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Thanks jarhead.
Pearl Drums With steam do you move it by hand or let weight pull the limbs into shape? I’ve seen guys use weight plates on the limb tip to gradually move it in place. I think that’s been more common on the dry heat, but idk
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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Move it by hand with both dry heat and steam. I make the bend in one quick movement. Lock the tip and bend it down without stopping. If its going to crack its going to crack no matter how fast you go. I will try to find a pic of my static form.
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From: BowAholic
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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great job and heavy weight as well... you can be proud of that one.
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From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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Thanks bowaholic Probably shoot for a little lower weight next time 55 isn’t too bad but I’m kind of a hard aimer
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From: RonG
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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Great video Cash, keep up the good work
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From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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Thanks Ron! I'll have another one soon.
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From: RonG
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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Yes the board bows are fun to make, you can whip out a few and play with the tips like you are going to.
I made a hickory bow from a stave a few years back and even though I applied eight coats of Birchwood Casey it still soaked up moisture and took a three inch string follow which I am going to try to straighten and cook the limbs hoping to keep out the moisture, will let everyone know how that will turn out soon. All of my board bows broke, I will have to try again.
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From: BigJohn
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Date: 23-Jul-21 |
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Nice work...
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From: jk
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Date: 24-Jul-21 |
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Admirable
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From: shooter
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Date: 24-Jul-21 |
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Congratulations, nice bow!
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From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 24-Jul-21 |
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Thanks for the compliments guys!
RonG. Yeah they're great for alot of reasons, biggest ones being price and availability. I've had board bows break too. The one before this one I left un-backed the grain was really consistent, so I didn't need it, this one had a knot grain pattern in the top limb which is why I decided to back it. I'd say the last two bows, I've pulled every piece out of the rack and left with the good ONE. About 10 or so years back I made a bunch of oak bows, backed some with drywall tape, but eventually they all broke. They'd last awhile, year or so but then one day out of nowhere a limb would crack. I think red oak is great cuz it's easy to find but I like the hickory better. I been lucky that menards here in town carries hickory. I know a guy who's brother owns a specialty wood shop here, I just haven't had the chance to get up there. Hoping I can get with him and have him give me a call when he gets grain patterns that'll work for me.
I think I might have said it before I have some Osage curing in the basement. My dad cut those, they're a little on the short side so I'm debating on finally using my two piece sleeve or doing a splice.I wanna leave that one in stave form but I think a splice would be way easier in board form. I'll wrestle on it a bit...
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From: Eric Krewson
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Date: 24-Jul-21 |
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The only thing I see is that your fades are too abrupt, the handle may or may not pop off. If you handle section doesn't bend any you are good to go, your tillering looks really good.
All the early bows I made with similar handles had the glued on handle pop off on one end other the other.
I went to a gradual transition to the limb at the fades and never popped off another handle.
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From: JusPassin
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Date: 24-Jul-21 |
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I'd agree with Eric. A bit more taper, about 3 inches.
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From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 24-Jul-21 |
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I can see what you're saying about the taper. I actually altered it a bit, from the original cut because it felt too abrupt. How long are your risers usually?
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From: Eric Krewson
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Date: 24-Jul-21 |
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I make my fades 2 3/4"long, they will shorten just a little as you get the limb bending into the fades and remove wood from the limb up to and slightly into the fade.
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From: JusPassin
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Date: 24-Jul-21 |
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Total riser with fades about 10 inches.
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From: George Tsoukalas
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Date: 24-Jul-21 |
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Very nice tiller on that bow!
I agree with Eric and maybe round the corners a bit more.
Jawge
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From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 25-Jul-21 |
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Good input. Longer riser will make more room for a grip.
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 26-Jul-21 |
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Finally found the picture I was hoping I hadn't deleted yet.
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From: Altitude Sickness
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Date: 26-Jul-21 |
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Pearl do you use metal bands on the belly tip radius to keep splinters from lifting? Or another method?
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From: Pappy 1952
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Date: 26-Jul-21 |
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Looks very nice, good job on that one. Pappy
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 26-Jul-21 |
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No sir, no metal straps. I'm a rare bird in that regard, I'd say most do use them. I tried a few times and it helped nil. The wood still tore if it wanted to, you cant stop tension tears with downward pressure.
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From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 26-Jul-21 |
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Pearl Drums Thanks for posting. Looks like the same bend I'm looking for. I'm gonna screenshot it for later. Hoping to tinker with bows more before hunting season...but my September elk hunt is coming up.
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From: Altitude Sickness
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Date: 26-Jul-21 |
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Looks like you leave it thick enough to remove the splinters if they appear
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 26-Jul-21 |
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Yes sir. The Grumley brush tips, in my opinion, were nothing but a happy accident. They weren't intentional. The apex blew out again and somebody got tired of scrapping bows. So they found a way to repair them that ended up becoming a "brush guard".
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From: Ironfist
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Date: 26-Jul-21 |
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Great job on the Hickory longbow. Tillering used to be a piece of cake for me when I was younger. Now its more intense.
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From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 26-Jul-21 |
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Ironfist Thanks. I spent a ton of time on the tillering to really dial in that skill. I feel like that's the most important of the build. I used to go too fast through that part of the build, and it hurt performance. In a week or so, I'll have another video coming out that just focuses in on tillering.
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