From: SteelyDan
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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I have a couple of orphaned yew limbs from projects over the past year or two. I would like to join a set of limbs to make a two piece take down bow.
I have ordered the steel/brass sleeves before and they work well but at $50-$55 plus shipping, they are pretty expensive for what you get.
Can anyone offer suggestions as to where a person would go or what you would use to make an affordable sleeve. Two pieces of steel/brass/copper pipe about an inch in diameter that nest tightly into each other?
Suggestions are welcome.
SD
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From: Will1616
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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I’ve used a single piece of EMT clamped in a vice to make a slight bend. Then, I file down the ends to fit the sleeve and glue in one end.
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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Are you part of the Primitive Archer forum?
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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Fiberglass
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From: tradslinger
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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is there a good video or something showing how to with the fiberglass?
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From: bentstick54
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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I got a set from Yooper Bowyer on the primitive archer site. I made a trade with him so I don’t know what he will sell a set for. He is using steel on steel, not steel and brass. The only thing I wish I knew before I got it, was he installed 1/2 sleeve inside 1 end of the outside sleeve. It adds more weight than I like. Other than that the fit was good. If I order another set from him I would request he just send the 4” outer sleeve and 1 piece of the 2” inner sleeve loose. Just personal preference.
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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I watched videos on YouTube. I believe Big Jim has one. I may have writen instructions if I can find them.
It is best to use two different kinds of metal,if you go that route. If you don't they can gall/sieze and will never come apart >>>----> Ken
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From: tradslinger
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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you would have to use anti seize on the mating surfaces to keep them from sticking or oxidizing together. it works great. it keeps bolts from seizing up
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From: SteelyDan
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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Rooting around in the barn I found some old aluminum tent poles.
The ends are swaged to fit one inside the other. However they quite thin and only 11/16" in diameter and I don't think that it would be strong enough to withstand the stress of bending. Or would they with a stiff handle?
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From: BowAholic
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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I have a copy of the original 1960s Popular Mechanics article on making your own diagonal cut sleeve, like is used on many custom bows. It says it can be done with fiberglass cloth/epoxy or rawhide/sinew I think. I'm not a tech guru but have the article pages scanned, and I think there are 7 pages.
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From: bentstick54
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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Yep, will either have to store separated, and/or use an anti seize using the same metal to metal. Yooper Bowyer stated he could get brass/steel pairs made up but was trying to keep cost down.
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From: Living the Dream
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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Slay Hayes has a you tube vid on making a fiberglass sleeve.
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From: wooddamon1
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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Interested here as well. I'd like to try it at least once and use up a couple accidental billets :)
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From: SteelyDan
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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An Elm bow I made using the sleeves from Pine Hollow. They work well.
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From: buster v davenport
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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Popular Mechanics published a set of DIY encyclopedias in the '50s that showed how to make archery equipment and all kinds of stuff. My brother has a set of them. bvd
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From: BowAholic
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Date: 16-Oct-23 |
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It can be done using the old article...
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From: Mechanic
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Date: 17-Oct-23 |
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Posted it before but it disappeared?
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From: BowAholic
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Date: 17-Oct-23 |
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Mechanic, your pictures are too big for this forum. The max is 640 on the largest side and your post is 606x944. The pictures just need to be resized.
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From: Indarctos
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Date: 17-Oct-23 |
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That is great article Mechanic! Thanks! I'll try it out on my next bow
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From: Jim Davis
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Date: 17-Oct-23 |
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I've been making take-downs for a long time using ordinary steel tubing. I epoxy one end in, let it cure, grease the inside of the other end, coat the second limb root with epoxy and slip it into the greased tube. After the second epoxy cures, that limb will USUALLY slip out.
My steel sleeve has a notch in the end and I drive a brad through the notch into the wood (I predrill to make that possible). The brad lines up the limb when it is assembled.
The other end gets a brad driven through a clearance hole to make sure that limb doesn't rotate or move endwise.
I use 1-1/8" drawn over mandrel steel tubing I bought at an online supplier. I leave it round.
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From: SteelyDan
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Date: 17-Oct-23 |
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Brilliant Jim....thank you.
SD
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From: Mechanic
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Date: 18-Oct-23 |
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I’ll try a third time.
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From: Cedarsavage
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Date: 18-Oct-23 |
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Funny I was just thinking about this
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From: Jim Davis
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Date: 18-Oct-23 |
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Those Popular Mechanics DIY encyclopedias in the '50s sparked my search for what "boam" might be and several long LW threads of cussin and discussin whether it was a mythical wood or a local name for some wood that nobody could name.
This was probably 20 years ago. I'd still like to know what boam is...
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From: springbuck
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Date: 27-Oct-23 |
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What Mechanic posted is what I would do. Electrical conduit or the top rail of a fence will do it.
If I angle the fit of the two limbs inside the piece of pipe so they ovelap a couple inches, I haven't even had to bother with the brass part. //
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From: Arvin
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Date: 03-Nov-23 |
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Not a sleeve but it is a nice takedown.
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From: Arvin
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Date: 03-Nov-23 |
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That’s the hunting rig.
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