Anybody ever grind a double bevel 2-blade like a Stos to single bevel? What angle to grind and what kind of a jig would I need? All I have is hand files an electric grinder with 6" wheel... Anybody know a jig design or link to how-to video?... Thanks...

Lots of us have sharpened double bevel heads as single bevels for 30 years or more with a file.

And it's been discussed on here.

Search this thread, I tell how I do the single bevel to Zwickey heads, same process for Stos

My single bevel Zwickey Eskimos

No. But I have made single bevel trade points from skilsaw blades.

Additionally all my cutting edge bevels are freehanded with angle grinder, bench grinder, belt sander, file and dmt diamond stones.

Thanks guys... Been doing a little internet searching, and think I'm going to try a Stay Sharp Jig... Looks pretty simple and reasonably priced... Now which angle, I think they only come in 35, 32, and 24 degree angles?

25 degrees is pretty standard. 32 would give you a more stout edge but not feel as sharp.

Thanks Derek, I think I'm going to go with the 24 degree grind and can use tape on the roller to get a steeper angle...

Bad idea!

Why is it a bad idea?

Yeah, why?

I guess I think different, but I left my eskimos double and bought Zwickey single bevels for my single bevel.

It will take a small amount off the cutting width of the blade.

fdp, Zbone, please read other threads on this.

Why would broadhead manufactures use much thicker steel for single bevel grind broadheads compared to double bevel grinds if it were not necessary? The answer is they would not.

Duh, to get heavier broadheads one needs thicker steel!

Given the same weight, size and style the head it can be single or double bevel.

You have been pounding negativity on every one of these single bevel threads.

Kelly, if what you said was true, why do carpenters angle the 2x4 braces to secure a wall while building a house. According to you they should simply nail a brace straight along the stud and tie it to the foundation.

Charles, that has absolutely nothing to do with the subject at hand.

Kelly, yes it illustrates the principles of engineering at work with supporting an edge a wall whatever. It's OK if you don't understand, maybe do some reading on the subject.

You are supporting the wall from falling over sideways, duh!

The force against an edge comes from the top/downward and in the case of the aforementioned Zwickey Eskimo it has triple reinforcement to downward pressure at the base of the edge. Just like the broadhead the studs and sheeting in the wall provide immense support against downward pressure.

So why is a very sharp edge a bad idea?

A very sharp edge is fine as long as it stays sharp while passing through the animal. What I have posted is true and is based on real world testing by shooting through hide, bone and flesh. Too thin an edge tends to curl with impact with bone, say a rib. I want my broadhead sharp after such an impact, so I cut arteries and lungs etc. I have killed dozens of deer with a bow, four and five deer a year while raising four children, I do know of what I speak. You can choose to believe my advice or find out for yourself; it matters little to me what you choose to do.

So Charles which edge do you prefer?

Am not a new by to bowhunting either, some 50 years too but you got me on deer killed I’m sure because never lived where I could shoot more than one deer a year and even now when I can still limitations on when those extra deer can be gotten.

If shooting a lighter bow, I shoot a sharp two blade double bevel. If shooting 45 pounds or more, I shoot a tree blade broadhead. Single bevels have their place for sure, and if you are shooting 50 pounds or more you should buy a quality single bevel and try it out if you want to. Some hunters swear by them.

I meant three blade not tree.

I guess, in my mind, why would you take that much material off a perfectly good broadhead to make it a single bevel? Zwickey has single bevels at a pretty good price if you want to try them.

People, please read Sunset Hill’s posts in this thread. He explains very well why and how he does it.

nice chart Steve - liked it

I think Nates is a semi single bevel - sorta like I sharpened the old Grizzlies

if sharp I think its a moot point shooting a deer

just whats easier for you to get sharp

Right on, Andy! Very easy to do with just a file.

Yep

did Grizzles like that for many years they were Right bevel and I shot Left feathers and belive it or not they worked fine

Yup cause the arrow stops rotating soon as broadhead enters.

This gentleman is very knowledgeable. Here is video on how he deals with edge chatter and single bevel heads. Incidentally he created the stay sharp sharpeners.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VvRZOnvO-i4

My experience with single bevel Griz is the same as Andy Man’s. And they seemed to go right on cutting but not rotating right through the elk heart.

Finally got around to buying a Stay Sharp Guide it arrived yesterday... I got the "Fixed Blade" model, but doesn't inform what the blade angle is for this model... I know about adding adding tape to the roller to receive a steeper angle, but would like to know the angle I'm starting with... The guys has a bunch of videos on youtube but can find one that gives the "Fixed Blade" model angle...

Also, I shoot left wing feathers so need a left bevel, so with the broadhead tip facing away from me do I bevel the left side or right side??? Thanks for any info...

Another way to ask what side to bevel, if broadhead is flat pointing up, do I grind the left side or right for left wing helicel???

Zbone- For left bevel, sharpen the left side (broadhead flat, facing up + tip pointing away from you).

Nate uses right bevel with left wing feathers because him being right handed its easier to file the right bevel than a left bevel.

Got it folks, thank youenz...

Left side grind, left helical, counter clockwise rotation... Thanks again...

My feelings is; unless your shooting bows over 70# and hunting dangerous game (cape Buffalo, Rino & etc.) I doubt you will gain any advantage with single over double bevel.

Bob

I don't understand why you would want to do all that work to change the bevel. If that's what you want get them that way. Also taking off that much metal would weaken them . This would make them less effective. Also , I agree with the chart above.

Won't get into a signal bevel pro/con, debate/dispute.... I have some old Stos am going to experiment with, and am going to try a single bevel because I CAN... I now have a Stay Sharp Guide and just want to know now the "Fixed Blade" model angle it creates... Thanks for any info...

You can and it will weaken the edge. This is an undisputable fact. They would not make most single bevel heads 70 thousands thick if it was not advisable from an engineering standpoint.

The chart above shows the angle for single bevels at 10-15 degrees. I think most guys in the know about sharpening singled bevels try to be at about 25 or a bit higher. I think any edge sharpened to 10 degrees is going to be more prone to dull and chip. It will be dang sharp for a little while though.

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here