I can shoot my bows fine but I have a bugger of a time stringing them with a stringer. What works best is the old brace against my foot and put my leg through. This method is not rec. but the only way that works. Any thoughts

I can shoot my bows fine but I have a bugger of a time stringing them with a stringer. What works best is the old brace against my foot and put my leg through. This method is not rec. but the only way that works. Any thoughts

I use a stringer like a Selway and it works well for me. I suppose I’ve used it for about 20 years?

I used the step through to string my bow the previous 40 years without a problem. I know it’s now not recommended but if you can use step through while only putting the tip of the bow in your palm as you string it there should be limited chance of limb twist. I’d guess there’s a much better chance of twist if you have to grab the whole limb below the tip to wrestle it up, and if that’s how you do it I’d spend a bit more time learning a Selway or similar stringer.

Using a stringer is fairly easy. What problem are you having?

When I started shooting 54-55 years ago I used the step through method. Then used a two pouch stringer( Bow Pal ?). I’ve used Selway for many years now. Stringing my longest bows (64-66”) is a little tough reaching the limb tip but shorter bows are a breeze.

If you are able to do the step thru you should be able to use a stringer, maybe a different kind of stringer or two feet on the cord. Stringers are by far the easiest way as long as you have the right one for your bow.

Just a heads up for anyone using a stringer w the rubber block on the upper end. Never use it on a wet bow, say unstringing after being outside in the rain, especially on a longbow.

If step through works for you then use it.

Just be observant when you do it.

The tip to tip stringers give more leverage and are much easier to string bows with alot of reflex. I really like the Webster stringer.

Black widow stringer works great, as long as limb tips aren’t tiny.

In my basement hovel, I have two nylon spools, with a lag screw through each of them and screwed into the heavy old door frame in my back basement. The top one works as a spot for the pivot, and the bottom one is the lever. I just pull the top limb back while it's in there and slide the string in. We had one similar at our archery club back in the 1960's.

I still push pull most of my lighter bows, but it gets more taxing every year. With recurves, a stringer of some sort is the safest way to go.

SELWAY rubber block stringer here, bought in 2009, used it on all kinds of bows since, recurves, longbows, short & long, no problems. THOUSANDS of string - unstring steps done in this time. like most things, some care in the process helps. I do use both feet about shoulder width, on the string. ALSO I py careful attention to traction on the rubber block/limb. It works well.

This as stated above= "ALSO I py careful attention to traction on the rubber block/limb. It works well."

Selway is the only stringer I've ever used. Wet or dry just keep a little hand pressure on the block.

Black Widow stringer for me also.

A friend of mine had problems to use a stringer on a 72" AMO bow. He was making the usual mistake: not putting his two feet apart at least the shoulders width on the stringer string.

I hate the stringers with a rubber block at one end. I much prefer a leather pocket at each end. Never had a problem with that. I keep one in my tackle box, one in my car, and one in my hunting jacket.

Using a stringer, and your feet to string an especially heavy bow, creates the possibility of 'becoming the arrow'. :)

You just need to take the time to learn how to use a stringer, it's very very simple and easy.

You just need to take the time to learn how to use a stringer, it's very very simple and easy.

The spool thing works really well at your home if you just want to string it there. If you have enough space on a solid wall, inside or outside, or a door frame, etc., then you can actually use any spool that is relatively heavy duty. I use the Brownell serving spools and they are holding up well.

I use lag screws long enough to go through them and allow for plenty of threads into the hardwood frame of the basement door. I measure from the lower limb, from about six or so inches up from the tip, to the pivot point. Place the lower one in position, then come up with the measure and install the other one. You can put them directly above and below, or offset the upper one to give better leverage. Then it's simply putting the pivot point in the top spool, and hooking the limb on the bottom one, and then pulling the top limb toward you as you string the bow.

George :D :D :D :D :D

Yes, as others have said, it depends on the bow. I can string my Samick Sage, which has moderate recurve tips with one of the rubber block/Selway types with no problem, however, I use one of the double limb tip pouch styles to string my Martin Hunter; too much tip curve for the Selway style.

I don't like the rubber block stringers, the two pocket work much better imo.

Selway.

I use the 2pocket type from BW. Have them scattered around my bow cases. I almost lost an eye to one of those with the rubber thing, did get a nasty hit in the head. Needsless to say I am gunshy about using one anymore. Used to get my kid to string the one bow I use it on. Oh, the pocket ones an’it bulletproof either. Had one come apart stringing a longbow.

Webster stringer

Like this guy said , and that’s how he lost his EYE

I wouldn't EVER use one with the rubber block.The rubber block ones are dangerous IMO. Get a double cup stringer (I like BW) and they are easy to string.

Shorten the stringer by tyig knots in. Just did it and works great

Still have an ankle strap for stringing up early Fedora bow, his tip were small and didn't trust the step through.

Remember first stringing up my first Fedora and it did a figure 8 and I said an explicative and thought I just broke the bow put it didn't do a thing to it, shot great but change to an ankle strap.

2 pocket stringer works great for me

Thanks to George. I saw a video of Bob Lee working on bows and he had two spool set up on the heavy legs of a bench. It looked easy and safe. - lbg

Can someone explain how the rubber block Selway is dangerous?

I've used both kinds of stringers -with the rubber block and the two pocket design. The safest and quickest way for me to string my bows is by using my vintage bow press as shown in the photo. The vintage bow in the press is a Root Recurve, Gamemaster, waiting on a string to be installed.

I modified my bow press so that it secures the bow limbs in four places. Once the string is attached I can then add string silencers and or install a string knock, and then I'm good to go.

The vintage bow press is adjustable with arms that allow for recurve and longbow lengths to be strung. It's not an Apple Bow Press . . . wish I knew who manufactured it!

Two Flints

This thread got me thinking my everyday stringer is a Bear pocket type I got 49 years ago with the Black Bear. Back up is a Selway rubber block I hate so last night made a backup. LW's like to make things, right?

Two flints that's a pretty cool press. That could be easily made. Well sort of with a little work. Still cool. JF

I string mine every time I shoot. And NO twisted limbs either. I grabbed a three pack of the KESHES brand on Amazon with two tip pockets, one on each end. The larger cup goes on the bottom limb tip. Put two feets on da string shoulder width, and keeping the bow level and not pulled off to either side, lift straight up and slide the top loop on the top tip. Be certain the loop is fully in place before relieving tension off the stringer. The ASIN # IS: B075LHK6L. $14.99 Each.

"Still have an ankle strap" those are the absolute best for a recurve in my experience. Harold Groves got me started using those years ago and I still use them.

I use a Border stringer. Nylon pocket on one end and a rubber faced loop on the other. The loop does the same thing as the rubber block oh the Sekway. I keep an extra on hand as I have had several guys switch to them. I also use two feet on the strap.

yes pracice with the stringer

Hi

I brought the Shooting Star bow stringer maybe 20 years ago I am still using now. I have replace the sting on the stringer to a longer string for my 72 inch BB bow plus I don't need to bend down as far I am 6 2" tall. One thing I know with the rubber pad is to keep it clean soap and water make sure your limb are dry as it can slippery down

I can't remember which bow it was, I had the limb tip go through the hood on earlier bow stringer not with Shooting Star

I wonder about the same thing, how can a Selway be dangerous? They take a little practice easily managed. You just need to slide the block towards the tip along with the string.

Also not understanding how a Selway stringer can be dangerous. the bow limb is surrounded by a loop of cord even if the block slips. So what could cause the bow to hit you??

Feet shoulder width at two points on the cord...hold block with your hand against the string loop until the limbs are loaded and the block cannot slip...then pull up and slide the string loop up onto the nock. I've strung dozens of different bows with one.

Only caution I would point is that I noticed the nylon pouch for the lower tip will wear and small pointed tips on some bows can punch through. (See photo)

I fixed that by putting a piece of folded leather as wide as the pouch into the pouch to take the load...no issue now.

I also use a Bateman but they are dangerous, like ANY tip to tip stringer, on bows with small tips. Some people stuff the upper pouch with material to give more clearance but that's a fool's paradise as the purchase area becomes dangerously small.

That's where the Selway excels.

Glad finally Pdiddly2 explanation is spot on, I agree and my experience too.

This should be the only stringer used Just kidding. I'm not even sure how it is supposed to work.

Oops. Upside down. I don't know how to fix that either.

Hey Barry!

Here it is right side up. Still a mystery to me (and you) how it works!!

Here is a picture of the wear on the pouch...took about five years and hundreds of stringing cycles for this to happen.

You can see the thinning in the middle of the pouch.

I also like how easy it is to change the brace height when using a Selway.

There is 2 types of rubber block stringers 1) ones that have slipped 2) Ones that are going to slip

They are dangerous in that they will smack the crap out of you in the face area. It won't slip until you are about to slide string on. BUT go ahead and use them if you like them.I replaced all the rubber blocks with pockets. I won't stand anywhere near anyone using them.

Hmmm…Guess I have been lucky with the Selway for many years and thousands of stringings…very odd you had your experiences. It still has not been explained how the limb could come free and hit me.

If you hold your palm above the bow limb as you slide the string loop up the limb then your palm and arm will stop the limb from coming up if the block ( somehow) slips, although it does not once the limbs are loaded.

Plus don’t look down at the limb…keep your face out of the line of travel of the upper limb by using a wide enough stance to have a straight back.

jjs, fdp, am I correct thinking an ankle strap is used for step through stringing?

Steve

If used correctly, there is a loop around the bow limb & your hand is on top of the limb. Stringers with a cup on both ends take less effort but if a tip slips off, you have been had. Some of the stringer tips are so shallow & some of the bow tips are so tiny or maybe too long for the cup. They don't seem secure at all to me. >>>-----> Ken

Ken…Fully agree on cup stringer and tiny tips. If that lets go it’s scary!

stick it through your leg and bend it. lol. I use a strap stringer every time.

I use a Bateman on my tiny tip static osage recurves, for me it the best one out there and the only one configured to tighten the tip cup on the bow when you put pressure on the string.

On my straight limb bows I added a stringing groove to the top limb and made the lower limb groove a little over sized to hold the string and the stringer loop. I use a simple para cord stringer that is as safe and anything on the market, it can't come off.

Here is the top string nock;

bottom;

I have tried a number of stringers, some work better than others for me depending on the bow. I remember my first 'extreme hook' recurve, and wondering how in the heck I was going to get it strung. Quick answer= Webster stringer. It works great.

I have used two kitchen chairs for over50 years to string recurves. Turn them facing each other and space the tops apart so that your bow limbs are resting on the chair tops with a cloth on the chair tops so the limbs dont scratch the limbs. Lay your bow on this and push down the handle and slip the string on. You need straight topped chair backs for this. Saw horses will work the same..works good on those long target bows. Doesn't work for long bows.

I have used two kitchen chairs for over50 years to string recurves. Turn them facing each other and space the tops apart so that your bow limbs are resting on the chair tops with a cloth on the chair tops so the limbs dont scratch the limbs. Lay your bow on this and push down the handle and slip the string on. You need straight topped chair backs for this. Saw horses will work the same..works good on those long target bows. Doesn't work for long bows.

I tried the 2 chairs method, scarry I stopped before something bad happened. I'll stay with my stringer. I have no doubt it works for some.

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