| From: Lhskyguy
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| Date: 08-Sep-22 |
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I shoot 3 under and have been trying to bareshaft my bow I've shot with double tied on nock points my whole life. Can not get a satisfactory nock setting take the extra nock point off and arrow hits target square at a large range on the string. Does anyone have some input?
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| From: Lhskyguy
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| Date: 08-Sep-22 |
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I shoot 3 under and have been trying to bareshaft my bow I've shot with double tied on nock points my whole life. Can not get a satisfactory nock setting take the extra nock point off and arrow hits target square at a large range on the string. Does anyone have some input?
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 08-Sep-22 |
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Do what works??? I mean if you have tried something for a reasonable period of time and it doesn't work for you....then it probably isn't for you. And that's O.K. We aren't all exactly the same.
I only use one nock locator on the string period but it is under the arrow rather than on top.
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| From: 4t5
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| Date: 08-Sep-22 |
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Your nocking points maybe a little close together, when you draw the string, you increase the string angle which closes the gap some what and MAY be pinching the nock of the arrow. Whith split finger one above and two below it is not an issue.
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| From: aromakr
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| Date: 08-Sep-22 |
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I have to agree with Frank on this. What most don't realize is the arrow has a tendency to slide down the string on release. Nocking under the nock set allows this to happen but not the same every time, causing inconsistent results.
Bob
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| From: kbertsch
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| Date: 08-Sep-22 |
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When you shoot 3 under you have to compensate for the angle of the string . you have to drop the bottom nock a bit or else the bottom nock will lift the arrow off the shelf a bit and give you bad arrow flight. Space them close together and have someone else draw your bow and you will see it.
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| From: 2 bears
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| Date: 08-Sep-22 |
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What 4t5 said. Another thought if you are hitting square with one nocking point it could mean your arrow is slipping down the string just enough. Have you tried lowering the nocking points? >>>----> Ken
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| From: Lhskyguy
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| Date: 08-Sep-22 |
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I have moved it up and down its pretty much goes from one extreme nock high to the other nock low with the smallest adjustments with double nock points I remove bottom and it shoots straight for a very wide range of nock hight up and down the string
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| From: Lhskyguy
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| Date: 08-Sep-22 |
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I will tie bottom point back on and try giving it a little more wiggle room between the 2 and see what happens and report back
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| From: Dry Bones
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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I shoot 3 under with two nock points. Like others have said, you do have to give it just a touch more space between the points than your nock really needs. Depending on nock fit I have made one point under the nock work as well.
-Bones
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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Drake if something doesn't work for you don't try to make it work because someone else does. It's o.k. to do things differently as long as you get the results that YOU want.
There are only certain things in archery that are constants, after those are addressed lots of other things are based on individual characteristics.
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| From: Lhskyguy
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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My problem is why does it work on all my other bows just not this one
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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No clue and all any of us can do is guess........
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| From: Jinkster
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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Lhskyguy:
"I have moved it up and down its pretty much goes from one extreme nock high to the other nock low with the smallest adjustments with double nock points I remove bottom and it shoots straight for a very wide range of nock hight up and down the string"
2 Things come to mind for me here...
1: Is the possibility that your bow is tillered to be shot split- finger where removing the bottom nocking point allows the arrow to slip down the string to it's natural center position (as dictated by the timing of the limbs) at the loose and/or?...
2: You're shooting low wrist and your bows grip angle is not boding well with the position of your string purchase resulting in inconsistent grip pressure and resultant bow reaction.
or a combination of both of the above.
My recommendation?....Just shoot it med-high wrist out of the throat with one nocking point or like what Frank said?...
do what works. ;)
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| From: George D. Stout
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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I don't think tiller matters as much as some think it does, although it can factor into individual dynamacs, especially the three under and different pressures applied to the string. You are you, and what we do or may do is irrelevant to what works for you; it may be entirely different. I agree with fdp's second post. if something is working, don't change it. That's pretty dang sound judgement Isn't it?
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| From: Jinkster
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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GDS:
"I don't think tiller matters as much as some think it does..."
With all due respect sir?...if tiller didn't matter custom Bowyers wouldn't ask and according to Davis A Sousa (DAS) it's pretty important that the bottom limb never be strong then the upper limb and moreover?...(now that ya got my brain going? LOL)...the OP hasn't indicated what sort of bow they are having difficulties with and could very well be dealing with a mistuned ILF configuration.
The other dealio here is I fully understand and could easily agree with you if all we were talking about is the sort of bows you yourself shoot which from what I've seen are namely vintage wood/glass old school hunting bows where the shelves are typically just above the bow hand and in those instances?...you're correct...they're not usually a problem being shot either way but get into the bows with elevated shelves/rests?....and "Tiller"?...gets important quick.
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| From: 2 bears
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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Well said Bill. We all have different experience levels in spite of the number of years at this sport. Most are content to stay with what works. I am the other extreme. I shoot Indian replicas drawing to the ribcage, horse bows, self bows, longbows,& recurves, even full race Olympic bows. Not to mention arrows of all kinds & a stint with compounds some years ago. I just like to learn. I think I enjoy learning & experimenting even more than shooting. I know it would be much better to stick to one as far as accuracy goes. I do always limber up a recurve to carry hunting. One of these days I want to stick to a selfbow & arrows maybe even with stone points. So far I just haven't had the nerve. >>>----> Ken
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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"I don't think tiller matters as much as some think it does..."
Earl Hoyt thought the same thing......
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| From: Lhskyguy
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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Fdp mentioning earl hoyt the bow in question is a sky skyhawk lol just a new one I added to the collection and it has been worked over by 2bears and was tilled for 3 below when He weight reductioned it
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| From: Jinkster
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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yet here we are. :(
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| From: B.T.
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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On many bows, tiller doesn't matter much...as long as it's 0-positive. My finger pressure matters as much or more.
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| From: Bigdog 21
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| Date: 09-Sep-22 |
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How's the nock fit on the string?
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