I have two Bear Kodiak Hunters. One is a 1972 56#. The other is a 1969 53#. Both shoot bare shafts nock high. Carbon and aluminum. I’ll start with the nock point obviously high, like 1”, then lower it gradually until it’s obviously too low and the arrow is bouncing off the shelf. At no point does the bare shaft fly level. Fletched arrows fly fine, so I’m not that worried about it. Mostly just curious.

My other bows will fire a bare shaft level, so it’s not my shooting form.

I have, with other bows, at times noticed that changing the brace height will change nock high or low. So maybe that’s it? Both bows are braced at 7.75”. I’ve seen Rick Barbee mention using a tensiometer to set the brace. What have y’all found as the ‘optimal’ brace on a Bear KH?

P personally if it isn't nock high when you fketch the arrow I wouldnt worry about it.

Why do you think it's a brace height thing?

fdp - As I mentioned, I’ve noticed brace height affect nock high/low on other bows. Just musing about these Kodiak Hunters.

Form. Sorry, it's form.... or you skipped/missed something.

BD -

With a finger shot bow off the shelf, there's a chance you may not be able to correct for that. I assume you're not shooting at a ground target?

Brace height is a function of arrow spine, 7.5" to 8.5" (+/-) puts you in the range, but someone else's BH has little bearing on what you need.

Viper out.

BD typically brace height is affects left/right impact not nock orientation.

Do you shoot 3 under with 2 nock points? 3 under with 1 nock point can cause this. Bigjim

Split with two nock points.

I notice those have flat shelves. I put a piece of a toothpick under the rug in line with the deepest part of grip. Something else, you might be torquing the string with your ring finger. Ken Beck explains this in his tuning video which can be viewed on YouTube. Then again like he says you may not solve the issue. I solved it by using a stick on rest. I was torquing the string, my ring finger had a callus thicker than other two fingers.

What's the tiller measurement?

Rick

Are you canting the bow?

Also try a stick-on elevated rest, I've not had the easiest time with flat shelf bows.

Having the same issue with one of my bows. Interested in all the answers

Steve

oops, just reading through and must'a hit the wrong button (above).

I do think, like when they say archery is 99% archer and 1% bow, the errors are of the same ratio...

Mine likes 8.25 brace height…opr8r

I would be wiling to bet those bows will both have great arrow flight with an elevated arrow rest. As long as they have not been retillered more than likely made to be shot with elevated arrow rest.

Try a different string.

I say form also.

Give us the arrow spec

I usually get the same thing since i tend to push down a little with my index finger. If I'm super careful about that it goes away. Ken Becks bare shaft tuning video even mentions this happening with a index finger pushing down.

Where's the shelf wear. I'm betting on front edge. Those shelves look to have shelf oriented high in front (back of the bow). I have an old howatt that way and have to use a rest to stop the arrow from lying on the back of the bow. That type grip forces you to heel the bow a little and makes the leading edge kick the rear of the arrow up slightly on some flat shelfed bows.

The shelf wears pretty much across the middle.

I may fiddle with a stick on rest, or as fdp said, I may not worry about it. The fletched arrows shoot pretty great and at least it’s consistent. That’s exactly what these old K Hunters are.

I’m not the OP, but thanks for the tips. I added a second nock and it cleaned my arrow flight a lot. Never thought I was putting that much pressure on the arrow when I drew back.

Steve

X2 on a top and bottom nock point. JF

I experience the same thing with bows with a grip like that. Sold my two Super Kodiaks for that reason. Could never really get them to shoot well unless I held the bow with a very high grip straight wrist. Not very natural for me. String pressure from pointer to ring finger may also have an effect that you are experiencing. X2 M60Gunner!

My KH likes 7.5 with a thicker rug rest material. It takes some time to figure your bow out.You'll get it good luck.

NAP Flipper II rest. Cut all the rest material above the flipper off. Once installed put moleskin above the flipper. This prevents possible spine change due to thickness messing with centershot. Took all of five MINUTES to have my bows cured of poor arrow flight off of the shelf. Shooting now sees completely stable flight.

I'm not a fan of flat shelves and prefer to fashion some sort of shelf bump so the arrow isn't contacting the entire length of the shelf.

Just put a Hoyt Hunter or Bear weather rest on it and forget about it!

They will outlast you!

Arrowchucker

Thanks all. I’ll try a shelf bump with some scrap leather.

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