From: wooddamon1
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Got a question about adding antler overlays to selfbow tips. I've read a little about it and saw where some guys soaked the side to be glued in super glue to fill the "porous" cut side. The stuff I ground down to rough shape seems very solid already.
Is that how everyone is doing it? Super glue for attaching it to raw osage wood after that? Or would Tite-Bond 3 work? Working on a nasty piece of osage now that just has to have antler tips. Thanks guys!
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From: Jeff Durnell
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Some parts of antler are solid and not porous, if that's what your overlays consist of, you don't need to soak them with superglue. I prefer Smooth On epoxy, but I would use superglue long before I'd use Titebond, for sure.
Next important is adequately mating the surfaces and surface prep compatible with the glue choice.
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From: wooddamon1
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Thanks, Jeff! I was hoping you'd chime in. The antler I'm using is cut-off tine tips. Most likely using super glue then, but where can I find the Smooth On? I'm assuming I'd have to order from an archery distributor?
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From: fdp
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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For limb tip overlays I e of the Devcon 2 hour type proxies work just as well as Smooth-On and you won't have to order it.
There are also high quality epoxy products available if you have a Woodcraft store in your town as well.
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From: wooddamon1
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Okay thanks, Frank! That's 2 responses and 2 for epoxy. I think I'll have to use some then. As for when to glue them on, I plan to wait until low brace when I can see how the string tracks, make any adjustments to the tips and then proceed to stick them on (after prepping fit), then let dry. Then file in the string nocks.
Sound good? The antler tips are about 3/8" wide or so, which is a little wider than I plan to finish them out at.
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From: Don T. Lewis
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Looking good so far. Good luck with the bow.
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From: Arvin
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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I like useing t he tips of the horn . It seams to be more dense.. the closer to the skull the less dense
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From: Bassmaster
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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I score both surfaces to be glued with a fine toothed hack saw blade ,and use a good epoxy.
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From: wooddamon1
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Thanks Don!
Arvin I agree. Many years ago I cut some near the bases for screen door handles, looked a lot less "dense" than these tips do. First time using it for anything semi-structural, so to speak.
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From: wooddamon1
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Thanks for that info, Bassmaster!
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From: Jegs.mi
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Damon, it looks like you're out to top your last one! Good luck and keep the pictures coming.
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Epoxy or CA work just fine. If you cut into the porous part in the center it needs several coats of CA first. If you don't seal the porous part it will soak up the glue & leave the joint starved. I love antler & sheep horn overlays & tips. Cow horn works too & can be very colorful black, browns, & white with swirls. I don't know that it is as tough but is decorative. >>>----> Ken
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From: wooddamon1
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Thanks Jed!
Ken, appreciate the info, thanks! Next one will have bison horn, I've been staring at that thing for too long. I like that black/yellow combo with the Osage and horn.
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From: Steve Milbocker
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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I used Titebond 3 for antler overlays on my first bow before I found out that I was not supposed to. Been going strong since 2010. Go figure huh?
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 24-Apr-22 |
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Tips & overlays don't have the stress & flexing the laminations have. They are not too difficlut to glue if you just make sure the porous areas are well filled. >>>----> Ken
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