From: garnet65
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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Based on your personal experience, which fletching glue do you prefer for ALUMINUM shafts? I use Easton Legacy 1916's.
I have used the NPV for years with great results, BUT I cannot buy a 1 oz tube of the Saunders NPV without the postage costing more than the tube of glue!! So if you know where I can buy the 1 oz tube where the postage charge is reasonable (meaning less than the cost of the glue? or close to it?), please tell me that also.
The Fletch-Tite Platinum is much easier for me to get as Bass Pro/Cabela's sell it, and I would be able to do an in-store pick-up.
Thanks for your input. Shoot 'em straight. >>>---->
WMM
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From: Pdiddly2
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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I had terrible results with NPV...that one experience during a Colorado hunt in wet weather was enough for me.
Others swear by it...I swore at it! LOL!
I have used FTP for many years on dozens of shafts and I use them for stump shooting with no issue after hundreds of shots.
Prep is KEY!! Clean with an abrasive cleanser like Ajax or Comet and rinse well. Do not touch the fletch area with your hands.
Just before applying fletch clean fletch area again with 99% pure isopropyl alcohol.
Don't use acetone or rubbing alcohol...they leave a residue that causes failure.
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From: aromakr
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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To me this is a no brainer! both products are excellent and if used properly should not be a problem. As Peter said "Prep" is one of the key's, also make sure the "use by" date or expiration date has not lapsed. Buy it local, just make sure it hasn't expired.
Bob
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From: George Vernon
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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William,
Fletchtite reformulated their adhesive a number of years ago to get lower VOC (volatile organic compounds) content (EPA helps again). Using peel tests from the packaging industry, the low VOC formulation has about 70% of the green and fully cured strength of the old formulation. Can still work with meticulous cleaning of aluminum, but weaker than the old Fletchtite, and NPV in my tests.
In addition to lower strength, the new formulation has a much shorter shelf life. Meaning the bond strength decreases with time. My experience suggests anything more than a year old should be pitched. I think this explains why some folks get one tube that ‘works’ and another that does not. So I switched to NPV or fletching tape or any of the ‘gel’ superglues.
There are a lot of recipes for cleaning aluminum. I clean the nock end of my aluminum using the shaker bottle of SSR product from Bohning sprinkled on a wet Scotch Brite pad. Check their website, they will have a YouTube video showing the process.
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From: Viper
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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G -
The NVP is comparable to the OLD Fletch-tite, before all the EPA crap killed the adhesion.
I have never had an issue the NVP, and while P is correct that prep is key, I don't go as nuts as he does. An abrasive cleanser with the shafts, and no prep required on feathers. With vanes you have to know if the manufacturer uses a "kicker" for CA glues. If they do, it has to be removed and 91% isopropyl and a Q-tip is more than enough. I pretty much do that on any vane regardless these days, it's cheap insurance.
I just order a tube or two with a larger order, and the shipping usually gets absorbed. Depending on where you get it from, it may need separate shipping.
Viper out.
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From: SaddleHill
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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I offer the same advice to anyone asking about aluminum... No matter if they have a cap dip, cresting, or are just a bare shaft.. I always clean and put a clear coat over the cap. This allows for perfect adhesion with compatible glue. If using wraps it is even easier.
Clean your shafts well, and lay down a base (clearcoat or wrap)
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From: Steve P
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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Garnet65, I use NVP and like it. I remember when the platinum was new and folks were having problems with it. I dipped shafts in blue clear I had thinking bohning on bohning should work, and it did. When that tube ran out I switched to Saunders. I haven't used platinum on a shaft without the dip, so no experience there. I'm sure you know the importance of what aromkr and Pdiddly are saying about prep so I won't repeat it. If their experiences have been good with th fletchtite, I can't imagine yours would be different.
Winter before last my son was fletching up a dozen aluminums for the indoor season. When he asked me where the fletching glue was, I told him there was a new tube in the desk drawer where it's always kept. He had two feathers on his third shaft when I saw he was using Duco. My bad, the new tube of NPV hadn't made it to the desk yet. So as I was handling him the NPV he was getting ready to strip feathers when I told him to hang on a minute. Finish the arrow in the jig and mark those three, if they come off refletch then. They are still on. Granted he only uses them indoors, but he shoots hundreds of arrows a week. Those three must have thousands of shots on them. I have some autumn orange that need fletched and I may give the Duco a go myself.
Steve
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From: YH2268
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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I have always used Fletch-tite with great results. Always cleaned shafts well with Isopropyl Alcohol. I just fletched a 1/2 doz last Friday for some summer 3D shoots.
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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I use wraps theses days. That way no matter which glue Saunders or Bohning, I have no issues. Besides I don’t have to go through that shaft cleaning ritual, just wipe down with Acetone. Wraps are cheap for me to make. I buy sheets of vinyl paper at craft store. About $2 a sheet. I get 12 wraps from a sheet. If you cut them just to cover fletch area you can get more per sheet if you want.
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From: Jim
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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I wipe down my aluminum shafts with MEK till they squeak and fletch with Saunders NVP.
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From: reddogge
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Date: 18-Apr-22 |
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I take it a step further. I lightly sand with very fine sandpaper like 320, then clean with acetone. I use NPV and you'd tear the feather apart pulling it off.
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From: loose arrow
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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I go to Walmart and get this 3M Emblem and trim adhesive, and I use the dispenser tube from Platinum Fletchtite on the 3M adhesive. I have no issues at all.
https://www.walmart.com
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From: loose arrow
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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Sorry, it would not paste the entire link. I found the adhesive in the automotive section of our local store. They also have a black adhesive.
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From: goldentrout_one
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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For me, fletch tite platinum has not worked for aluminum - my opinion, if you use fletch tite platinum on aluminum, you will eventually know what I know. Fletchtite platinum has worked for me on carbon however.
I have used E6000 glue with great success on aluminum, highly recommended (but the glue is somewhat viscous and can be challenging to apply, and use it in a well-ventilated area!).
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From: Pdiddly2
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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I agree with Viper that my prep is a bit OCD ( slightly LOL) but I figure it is worth it because fletch and time is not cheap, especially time...so if an ounce of prevention will save me a pound of cure I am in.
Plus losing the fletch on my arrows on a backcountry elk hunt left an indelible memory...I was glad I had some backup arrows fletched with FTP or it would have been bad.
So it is belt AND suspenders for me...Comet cleanser and a quick alcohol rub so the shaft is squeaky clean.
Just for clarity, I don't prep the fletch itself...just the portion of the arrow the fletch is on.
Here's my heap of arrows I have done with FTP...rarely lose a feather.
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From: N Y Yankee
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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I like NVP a lot. Just did a half dozen XX75's with great results. It seems that wherever there is a bit of excess glue, it dries down smooth, not bumpy like other glues. I wipe the shaft well with acetone on a blue-paper shop towel. I don't wipe the feather at all. I think sometimes guys don't put down quite enough glue on the feather. It can be difficult to figure how much is enough and or too much. Too much is better than not enough, to a point.
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From: Viper
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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P -
99% of what we do is more ritualistic than functional. I HATE fletching arrows and making bow strings, so I agree on the time factor. I try to find the quickest way that gives adequate results. The NVP glue with the prep I described does that, but so do a lot of other methods.
Viper out.
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From: Greenstyk
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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I remove the Easton legacy decal first with acetone and then clean the shaft with 91 percent isopropyl alcohol. I do nothing to the feathers and I fletch with NPV but I have also used flexbond as well with no problems. NPV is my preferred glue.
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From: Wapiti - - M. S.
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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I use platinum fletchtite haven't had any problems. Have been using it for many years.
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From: carpenter
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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I have been using NPV for several years now on wood ,carbon and aluminum with out any issues. My Grandsons keep me busy!
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From: Bill Rickvalsky
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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I totally agree with the cleanup/prep of the shaft being the key. But old school me got along fine with Duco on both wood and aluminum. I've never shot a carbon arrow so I wouldn't know about that.
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From: widowman812
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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As many have said prep is key. I have used Flex Fletch - Flex bond, for many years. Never had a problem with it.
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From: longshot1959
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Date: 19-Apr-22 |
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You might consider ordering Fletchtite and clear arrow wraps together, then shipping would be slightly less painful. And arrow wraps are really a great base for adhesion. I have found that clear or solid color wraps are fine, prints are a waste as the "cresting" fades off quickly.
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From: loose arrow
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Date: 20-Apr-22 |
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Anyone find a difference between denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol? I use denatured because I read that isopropyl has additives that can leave a slight residue on the shaft after it evaporates.
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From: Steve P
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Date: 20-Apr-22 |
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loose arrow, have you had any problems with the denatured alcohol? I've heard the same as you, only with the 70%. I've used the 91% , a friend uses 100%, my neighbor uses denatured.
Steve
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From: BigStriper1
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Date: 20-Apr-22 |
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I have used both but manly Fletch tite platinum. I put the feather in the clamp and scuff it lightly with sand paper then wipe the feather and the shaft with 91 percent alcohol and add the glue and when I put it on the shaft I wiggle a little back and forth so it seats well. Usually no problem.
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From: garnet65
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Date: 20-Apr-22 |
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Thanks everyone.
I found the 1 oz tube of NPV on Walmart for $5.99 + $4.00 S&H + $.62 sales tax, so I ordered from them. Shipping time about 10 days, but I'm in no rush.
I have had great success using NPV with arrow prep as follows: thoroughly wipe arrow with old clean tee shirt cloth with 91% isopropyl alcohol, then wipe base of feather with the 91%, apply good amount of NPV to feather base, apply to arrow with my Bitzenburger jig gently and very slightly "brushing" the shaft left to right with feather base before pushing clamp down solidly into place to dry.
It has worked almost flawlessly for me for 20 years plus. "To each their own." All good, and no worries.
Shoot'em straight >>>--->
Regards, WMM
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From: garnet65
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Date: 20-Apr-22 |
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Thanks everyone.
I found the 1 oz tube of NPV on Walmart for $5.99 + $4.00 S&H + $.62 sales tax, so I ordered from them. Shipping time about 10 days, but I'm in no rush.
I have had great success using NPV with arrow prep as follows: thoroughly wipe arrow with old clean tee shirt cloth with 91% isopropyl alcohol, then wipe base of feather with the 91%, apply good amount of NPV to feather base, apply to arrow with my Bitzenburger jig gently and very slightly "brushing" the shaft left to right with feather base before pushing clamp down solidly into place to dry.
It has worked almost flawlessly for me for 20 years plus. "To each their own." All good, and no worries.
Shoot'em straight >>>--->
Regards, WMM
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