Is there any way or the best way to remove the glue-on nock cone from an aluminum shaft, so that uni-noc system can be installed?

Yep. I used an arrow saw( homemade with a harbour freight mini saw). Deburred and glued in the uninock bushing.

Thanks, was thinking I'd sacrifice one to see if that worked.

Arrow saw, tubing cutter, belt sander, bandsaw or power miter saw with carbide blade, etc all work to remove the swaged nock end. Cut it off, grind it off, deburr. Their level of effectiveness is directly proportional to your ability and familiarity with the chosen tool. I just did some with a 12" Dewalt compound miter saw, just go down through them slowly. Back them up with wood if you like, it may help depending on speed and blade sharpness, but I didn't and it worked just fine. I used a RCBS chamfer/deburring tool, for reloading rifle cartridges, to clean them up in a few seconds. Done. Ready for Uni nocks.

What Brian said.

Like Brian, homemade arrow saw made from Harbor freight cutoff saw. Deburr and glue in.

yep..cut 'em off.

Just make sure they're modern shafts. Up until the 90s xx75 shafts had the nock end necked down for smaller nocks on some sizes. Only on xx75, not game getters.

I just use a small tubing cutter.

Here is a picture of my small tubing cutter.

I noticed the step down on the nock end, I plan to take a tube cutter and back up past that taper. Have one arrow of the group that is too short of me to safely shoot, point pulling back onto the shelf, so I'll start with that one. Only three fletched, so I should be good.

Yep tube cutter works great

I'll pick up a dozen uni-noc's and super nocks to try out.

Keep us posted on how they worked.

What’s the advantage of the uni-nock over the regular glue on nocks. I shoot mostly wood but have a few aluminum arrows around. Just curious

There's a few benefits, but nothing major. They can be turned any time after installation to align the feathers exactly where you want them. I don't know if I buy it, but some say it's harder to damage or Robinhood them with the way the bushings are tapered. Since the nocks just push in and pull out of the bushings, you can quickly change a damaged nock, or switch to different styles or colors without glue or heat or cutting and scraping old plastic and glue off a swaged end. You could even push in a lighted nock for hunting if you want and remove it later.

d -

Easier to replace when you damage a nock (with better concentricity), and dynamic tune-ability if you don't know how to tune a bow property (that's gonna piss some people off).

Viper out.

Tubing cutter is what I use.

That's true Jeff, a hit on a swaged end usually glances away. Back in the day before these open ends, it was rare to get robin hoods, even guys who were shooting perfect indoor rounds, so that's proof enough for me. It was something then to brag about because it was normally done in the center of the gold, not in the three ring or an 8 on a 3D like happens nowadays.

I don't change swaged ends and see no good reason to do that, for myself. Anyway, feathers should not be hitting your bow, nor any other part of the back half of the arrow.

“ I don't know if I buy it, but some say it's harder to damage or Robinhood them with the way the bushings are tapered. “

As George said, I think it’s easier to get a Robin-Hood with a uni-nock than with a taper. Which is why they invented pin nocks.

Because if you think about it, there is a Reason why we use a funnel with the wide end facing up.

We'll see how this works with a dozen and then perhaps more.

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