Established the crown of the bow. Penciled in the basic outline of the bow. 4 inch handles, 1 1/2" flares, 1 5/8" wide narrowing down to 3/4" tips. The tips are extra wide for now due to this being a recurve.

This is my second recurve. Not sure, but believe the tips need extra width for stability.

Open to suggestions in this area.

Roughed out the bow using my band saw. Was very careful to stay about 1/8" inch or more outside the lines. Have a rich history of getting too aggressive with this saw and finding my self with a youth bow in the making. Not a bad thing, but not what I want two 1/2 months before deer season.

Used my rough cut rasp (not sure what the proper name is, but it sure works good for this job) to complete my rough out of the bow. Working carefully to the penciled outline. The limbs are worked easily with this tool. Makes for a smooth, steady taper to the tips. The handle will be roughed out using a #50 rasp or one of more aggressive rasp files.

Establishing a 3/8" thickness along each limb side. The tips are slightly shy of 3/8' and the flare areas are a bit thick. I use a compass plotter (two needle points, and no pencil lead) for this, adjusted for 3/8" and then mark the tips under the point, the middle of the limb are marked next to the pointer, and the flare area are marked above the pointer. I do this on each of the four sides. Then simply joint the marks.

Penciled-in the handle area. This will help later with the rasp latter tomorrow.

After considerable debate on which billets or stave I wished to make my next bow out of, I settled on a very clean, two year old 63" stave.

My goal here it to make a 62" tip to tip, recurve selfbow for this year's deer season here in northern Alabama.

The rings are a bit tight, so I may need some advice on backing it or not. Really don't want to. Might apply some copperhead artificial skins to assist in keeping the back in one piece.

The stave was roughed out two years ago. Actually Buz and I cut these in Feb 06 and this is my only stave left from that adventure. My others are not dry enough.

Will post several pictures tonight and attempt to explain the basic steps I took.

Wish me luck.

Russell

A couple pics of the stave prior to chasing the elusive "Back Ring."

Chasing the ring using my drawknife. Made sure the blade was very sharp. Dry wood sure does pop off between the spring and summer growth (dark being the summer rings).

Worked a semi-dry stave tonight and she just wasn't ready to become a bow. The stave was cut in Feb 07 and just needed at least one more year in my hot garage to be ready for whittling.

Started at one end and slowly worked one layer at a time the entire length of the stave. Let's call her a bow from now on because she is transforming from the stave look to a rough bow.

Had to chase one extra ring. After viewing the bow in sunlight, I say where I hadn't established one continuous back ring. One more chase, and I am done.

Here' the final step I used to chase the ring. I wanted to make sure I stayed on the same ring, so I didn't switch ends. Just continued in one direction. Once I reached the far end, I established one edge of the back ring, and then carefully removed the remaining wood with my drawknife. Used a cabinet scraper a few times, especially when I lost the ring or thought I lost the ring.

When I approached with in an inch or so of a pin or knot, I worked around it with my drawknife. The wood is harder in this area and I have experienced pulling up splinters nearly every time I'm not careful. So I work these areas later with extra care. Lots of care!!

Well good for you. Good progress. You are right though. You didn't catch a ring all the way yet. Try it again. I usually put the dknife down and go with a curved scraper like tool for the chasing. Otherwise as you dig out wood you just violate the next layer on those wavy staves. Jawge

The pictures got all disorganized. Well, you all can figure out the natural progression.

Thanks George for the guidance. I finally got the back established. I'm pretty good with my drawknife, especially with a clean stave and dry. Dry is the key I have found.

A hot day here in Alabama. Worked an hour or so this morning and was soaking wet by the time I was finished.

Worked the limbs down to the 3/8" mark and roughed-out the handle. Continued to check the strength of each limb with floor tillering. They are coming along nicely.

Did notice the remnants of a pin knot on one edge, mid-limb area. These can be disastrous if since no wood was left on both sides. Fortunately it was small, and only the very outside on the knot formation remained. Actually with some additional tapering and rounding of the corners, any sign of this knot will be gone. I didn't/couldn't see this knot during the layout.

Plan on reestablishing the 3/8" limb thickness after I adjust the tapers. Using my calibers and measuring every two inches, I found a couple area that need slight wood removal. After that, I will plot 12 ea 3/8" marks and connect-the-dots. Then carefully rework the limb thickness to touch the lines.

Once this is done, I intend to get the caul out and realign the bow using a heat-gun.

That's my plan for today. Grass needs cutting and packing for next week's business trip.

Anyone care to cut my grass for me?

Looks like it is coming along nicely. Thanks for the show! Jawge

Yea that is coming along...thanks for all the info and photos...

Finished my limb tapers with consistent width caliper checks every two inches starting 5 1/2 from the handle outline.

The bow is learning to bend via multiple floor tillering lessons. She is very heavy, but don't want to remove too much wood. My goal is for a heavy hunting bow of 65 lbs at 28".

Started to apply dry heat to correct the several areas that need straightening. There's some twist as well. This stage will most likely take me nearly 10 or so corrections until the two tips and everything between are aligned. No need to teach the bow to bend when the fibers are not ready to work efficiently. Then I'll continue teach it to bend and work the limbs to near final width and start working on the last 5 inches of the tips for width adjustments.

I'll need some advice on the tips for recurving. Thinking about keeping the limbs wide until the final 5-6 inches then taper down to 1/2 inch tips. Believe I need lateral stability for a recurve limb design and the extra width should provide this.

FYI, this is my second recurve selfbow.

Thanks in advance for any ideas and feedback.

I'm gone starting Monday for five days. Will continue this adventure when I return next weekend.

Best wishes, Russell

Great build!

Want to see More!

Thanks

><>

Chief

a very good post. Nice illustrative pictures!

Can’t wait to see her on the tiller. :-)

my website

I like to leave my stave flat bellied until I get done with the heat work. Same on the recurves, with the added need to have a single growth ring on the belly if practical. Like for it to be full width there as well, 1 1/2" and no more than 5/8" thick, depending upon finished weight up to ~70#. After the recurves are bent, then I cut the width profile, leaving a little proud of the lay out until I get a string on it and see how it lines up to the centerline.

Looks like a nice clean stave, although needs a little help with it's shape. Very humid in the South this time of year. Absent some kind of apparatus or method for controling humidity you may end up a little over built for winter, and/or a little extra set.

Nice start. Thanks for posting. I have been getting lots of shop time. Hinged a bow on the outer limb Saturday, which is very rare for me. Kinda took some of the wind outa my sails. Threads like this will help keep me on track hopefully.

DCM,

Appreciate the guidance. You present an interesting thought. I normally keep my bow and staves in the garage. Hot in the summer, cool in the winter.

If I were to keep my roughed-out bow in the house where we have central air during the bow making process, would the bow final weight be more stable during normal fall/winter hunting?

You have presented an interesting thought.

I've always kept the bows in the garage that I hunt with. But I don’t hunt when it's hot nor do I string the bows when the wood is hot.

During the straightening process (underway) I wanted to remove as much excess wood as possible to reduce my heating time. Plan on using olive oil during the bending process to (hopefully) prevent checking. Merely apply oil to the area of being heated.

Yes, this stave is my cleanest one. Also, the only one that is dry. Buz and I cut a real nice Osage tree a couple months ago. She was way big with tons of bow-wood. Actually more like 600+ pounds, but felt like a ton!

Hate those hinges. Good luck with it.

Looking good, will follow.

Looking good so far,Really enjoying it.I would probably consider backing that one,it is very clean but from the picture of the growth rings it looks like [and it may just be the shot]that the ratio between Spring and summer growth is pretty close.I like the spring as thin as possiable.Keep us posted. Pappy

Build-alongs are good and always appreciated, Russ. Way to jump in here.

David's advice is spot-on. But I think you'll do fine if you make it like your last 'curve. Just take off less wood along the limb than you did with that'n. :-)

I can hardly believe you haven't heard to take your wood inside in the A/C where it belongs. Mine come outa the shed at least a year or two before I make 'em a bow. You've seen the pile in the shed, you haven't seen the stacks in the corners of the hot-water heater closet (the perfect place down south) and behind every bedroom door.

I don't think any skin decals are gonna give your bow's back any strength. Skins will not BE a working bow back. Use air for your backing, instead. Those rings will be fine if you leave a late-wood ring prestine. Anyone who can make a selfbow draw more than half its length (like a couple of your latest)has the skills that are up to the task.

I can't believe my wife hasn't allowed me to fill a room with yellow wood.

OK...back and eager to get this bow making adventure underway once again. Continued to straighten the jogs and twists. Got most of them out with about eight separate heating's and bendings. Used a piece of fastflite tread with lead weights to check my work. Also place the thread on the handle's center-line and checked each limbs alignment. Have twists in multiple areas and more bends than I wish.

have most worked-out and letting her sit overnight. Will continue in the morning.

After heating, bending, reheating and rebending, I have the two tips and everything between aligned fairly close. Have some slight twist here and there, but it's close.

Worked the tips from the last 6 inches tapered down to 1/2 inch at the very tip. My goal is for this little extra width to provide lateral stability once the tips are recurved.

Need to work the handle and flares some. Too much wood in the dips and neck area.

Bent the bow some on my tiller tree using string with tip cups. Intend to work the limbs down a few inches until they are bending uniformly.

Off to scout deer and get together with Buz-Al for some bow making discussions.

Later, Russell

This is great !!!! Thanks.

Working the dips and flare area.

Working the dips and flare area.

Refreshed my screen, didn't know I would double post.

Tillering some to the 6 inch mark. Not working/bending in the right (upper) limb near the handle. Won't bend any further than to reveal the area that needs work.

Every time I remove any wood to get an area working, I will normally flex the bow 40-50 times to the same distance as before. In this case it's 5-6 inches and nothing more.

What she looks like at rest. Not too bad, was thinking about reflexing the tips on my caul to 2 inches reflexed. But, the tips are getting a good recurve caul applied once the limbs are working evenlly to 15-18 inches or so.

Will work slow and think more than scrape. No time to be in a hurry.

Reducing the thickness the non-working area of the upper limb base.

String is sitting right on the handle's center line. I like that. Will check the alignment from time to time. Do have on area on a limb that has a slight twist for about 3" and only on one side of one limb. This was from heating and bending. Hoping this will work it's way out during the tillering process. If not, I'll take care of it with heat.

Replotted my 3/8 inch edge thickness on each limb edge. Noticed after touching up the tapers and straightening the limbs, my limb edges were not continuously 3/8". Had some thick area, but no thin. That's always good, you can always remove wood, but a bit tough to add.

Used a pencil compass and drew my 3/8" edge thickness lines. Used the rasp on an angle and reestablished that all important taper from edge to limb center area.

The limbs are looking nice and time to put the files away and work using my cabinet scraper. I really like using the scraper, just make sure you have a good curl on the edge to shave the wood and not scrape.

Bending a little better. Starting to use the 6" tiller block (with a pencil). What's the official name of that way-too-cool tool? Someone on this board invented it or something like that. THANK YOU for the great idea.

Russell

Great thread!

Looking forward to more!

Thanks

><>

Chief

Chief,

Here's more. Tks for the comments.

Russell

Still working the initial tillering stage. I find this the most challenging. Get this right, the rest falls in place.

Focused on the flares. These have a habit of getting away from me from time to time. Look, file, look, file, etc. My neighbors must think I can't remember what I looked at 15 seconds ago as I keep going outside my garage in the sunlight and looking at the bow. Hmmm, they are a bunch of non-hunters. Glad they're not tree-huggers! If they were, I'd tell them I hug trees too, as I climb them to hunt deer!

Softened the back-side edges. Used my rasp (#50 Nickelson) to round the edges leaving 12 inches of tips remaining clean. Want extra wood in this area incase something spits during the recurve bending process. Also, like to soften the corners as the bow is bending nicely and the edges are at final thickness or close.

The lower (left) limb is lagging behind the upper limb by nearly 1 1/2 - 2 inches when at the desired bent distance.

The next picture shows the pencil markes while using the 6" tiller tool. Scrape the markes off. Scrape a little more wood in the center of the marks and feather the entire area to soften the wood being removed.

You maybe able to see the pencil marks. During this scraping phase, which lasts for dozens of tiller bends (40-50 ea), I keep repeating the process until the wood reacts to the scraping. Slow and steady. I rarely use anything more than a cabinet scraper at this point. Use a rasp and a hinge appears out of nowhere! Most likely magically from the dust pile building on the floor.

I'm ready for the next phase. The limbs are cooperating, the edges are rounded some, limb taper good, handle flares looking good, and the initial tiller using a cupped string is good up too 8 or so inches.

Coated the tips (12" or so) with olive oil. Actually been using this oil during each heating process in order to prevent checking. No checking noted, guess it's working. In fact, have used so much oil we could eat the bow if she breaks!

Working ever so slowly using heat to the 12" area of the tip. Have an industrial strength band-saw blade behind the limb to assist in preventing splinters.

During this critical heating process and after a few minutes of applying heat (continuously moving the heat-gun), I rest my free hand on the upper bow area and apply slight downward pressure. As the wood begins bend the bow will slowly conform to the caul. Once all the way down, I work the entire area a couple extra passes and then quickly clamp her home.

That's it for tonight. Olympics are on the tube and I'm tired.

Later, Russell

Russ, it looks like your bend went real well but I think you had the bandsaw blade on the wrong side of the bow to protect for splinters. I never use one on osage anyway. Bow is looking good so far. Steve

That' too funny if it's on the wrong side. Thought it goes on the back. Hmmm, newbie mistake?

Glad to hear you are using a tillering gizmo, sure makes tillering easy but few people will try one. I haven't figured that part out because it is one of the best tools to come out for making selfbows. Of course I have a biased opinion because I invented it.

Eric, I just started using one recently. I have used the 4" square block with out the pencil for a long time but the pencil sure makes it easy. I am thinking of drilling mine for a marker pen so the line width will change with the tiller, I don't always use a circular tiller and thought I would try it. Don't you call your gizmo a "walkie talkie"? Steve

Here's a pic of the tip that was recurved. Came out better than expected. The belly is free of any splinters. The back is smooth too.

Bending the other tip, but this time not using a piece of blade to support the back. Yes, this is the wrong side. Clamped the blade on the front, belly section and started my heating process. I didn't feel comfortable doing this because I didn't believe the wood was getting heated properly under the blade. So, I removed the blade and heated slowly like the other tip.

After a few minutes of heating, lowering my temp some, then raising it again. The wood started to bend. Slowly worked to entire area until she was laying flat. Aligned the tip on the caul and clamped her home.

On final inspection, noted a splinter was raised laterally across the belly as noted with the pencil. Hmmm, didn't get that area heated enough I would say. Also you can see a slight gap under this area between the caul and bow limb. I think the blade piece laid between the caul and limb worked to distribute the bending forces into a more even arc.

Will be interesting to see the difference looks from last night's tip and this mornings.

Like the idea of the blade behind the tip. Also will leave the full width and about 1/2 or so thick with one continuous ring like DCM suggested. Buz-Al explained the reasoning to me yesterday. It's like when you leave one continuous ring for the back. Do the same for the belly when recurving the tips. Reduces the tendency of raising splinters. Hmmm...gona try and remember that one for the next bow.

Letting the wood cool completely prior to removal from the caul. Even when the wood is cool to the touch, would believe the center area is still slightly warm. Couple hours of natural cooling sounds good to me. Don't want to risk damaging the wood fibers, molecular structure, etc with rapid cooling. Have the time and have nothing to lose by letting it cool naturally.

Tip bent with piece of industrial band-saw blade used as backing during the bending process.

Here's the other tip bent this morning not using the saw blade as backing. There are two noticeable kinks in this tip. Darn...attempted to reheat the area with the blade behind the tip but not able to keep the stiff blade, bow tip, and the caul working as one. Figured the risk-reward isn't worth it. Will keep as-is to serve as a reminder.

One of the tips moved off to one side of the center line. Applied some heat to the area just prior to the bend. Moved the tip area for realignment.

You can't use a metal strap on the belly when using a heat gun. That method is usualy used when steaming a whole limb to heat in recurves. I prefer steam for Sharp bends but yours isnt to bad. Im guessing you had a growth ring feathered out at both places it kinked? one growth ring on the belly would help there as well as More clamps on your form.

After seeing the way your first one came out I am considering starting to use a blade "backward" as you did on the fist one. It seemed to really smooth out the bend. I like to have a solid ring on both sides when I make a curve as well. The curve was perfect. Steve

Putting my Ford Wrench to good use. Attempting to remove a slight twist in 3-4 inches of limb. Found one more that needs addressing.

Ryano,

The kink occurred adjacent to the belly break (the one about 2 inches from the tip).

I can really see why it's good to have a solid ring on the belly in this area of bending. Also, the extra width DCM suggested sure would have been nice to have now. Have a bit of extra work, but a good lesson learned.

Cut the nocks, rouded the edges on the belly and tip backs.

Here she is braced at 4".

I normally brace my selfbows at 6". Should this be different with recurve selfbows?

The lower tip (in the forefront) is twisted a bit to the left. Any ideas what I should do?

In the mean time, will clean the back side of pencil marks and spring growth residuals. Also going to inspect the back real closely during this step to see if any problems may rise (slinters raising) during my next tillering processes.

Thanks in advanced for any guidance you may provide.

Russell

who you have put lots of work into this one. nice job. I recently had some twist to a bamboo backed bow. I removed a bit of wood by sanding / scraping on the side it twisted towards to get it straightened out. My reasoning was if it twisted that way it must be the stronger side and so removed from the one side towards the centerline. I kept going slowly and would pull the bow to get the wood working and see how the adjustment was coming.

Gaur,

That's an interesting approach. One I didn't consider. Sort of like tuning a bike tire with spoke adjustments.

Tks for the feedback. I'm going to take a look at those areas that are twisted slighly.

Have her braced at 6 inches. Looks as good as any of my bows at this point. Have a couple areas on the back side that merit watching closely. Have one in particular that looks like a dent that spans about 1/2 or less the width of the limb. Used my magnifying glass to get a good look at it. It's about 12 inches or so from the tip. Hmmmm, really don't know how that happened. But, do remember hitting my dust pan once while taking the bow out of the vice.

Tillered to 16 inches with a brace height of 6 inches. Everything looking good. She's pulling 35# @ 16". My target is 65+ lbs. Going to be careful with the belly scraping from now on.

Question for you Master Bowyers,

How do you measure the tip-to-tip distance? Strung or unstrung

Tks, Russell

The tiller isn't perfect, but the weight is coming in low. Have her tillered to 27" @ 57#. Was hoping for 65 at this draw lenght.

That upper limb (right one) near the dips to mid-limb gave me the most problem with twist. Also, noticed an inch or so of set once the bow is unstrung. Don't plan on removing any more wood due to the poundage coming in a bit low.

It's not perfect, but not ugly neither. No hinges and no ticks of fibers breaking. Good news I would say.

Need to finish the handle as I have about 1/8 inch or so extra wood.

Starting to think of a name for her. All should be finished next week or so. Having to shoot-her-in for about 100 or so arrows. I dont normally do that, but do flex the limbs an extra 100 times once all is done.

To this point, I would guess the bow has been flexed nearly 2000 times tillering up to this point.

That's it for today.

Good evening all.

Russell

Good job Russ, didn't take you long either. The nock to nock length is measured unstrung, You can add about 4" to your strung length and that would be about right.

Russ

Excellent pictorial - Looks very good - wish I had your gifts to perservere.

Thanks for putting in all the extra work that it takes to take us on this journey. Will you be putting on skins or sinew?

Blessing

><>

Chief

Steve,

To measure the nock-to-nock, with the bow unstrung, Do you measure belly to belly nock grooves?

Chief,

No plan on skins at this point. It may require sinew though. If that happens, will have a bunch more work to get her ready for deer hunting.

The bow didn't turn out nice enough to justify skins. If I'm going to spend the extra money on skins, the bow will have to merit it. Unless I catch two copperheads or rattlers...and that aint going to happen! Hate the sight of snakes, but can stomach them on the bow.

Not 100% sure but I would expect measuring the nock grooves at the back of the bow. This is how everyone I know of measures them. Actually laying the tape on the bow following it's shape, Steve

Makes sense. I just measured one of my old recurves that way. Came out per the bow's markings.

Looks like this one is 60" N-t-N.

It's came a long way,looking good,Nice job. Pappy

Pretty bow and you did a very good job on it!

Thanks for the comments.

Been thinking about the back ring and the thinness of it. I have bumped it once already and dented the back ring some. The durability and ability to withstand bumps, and dings from field use may be in question as she stands right now.

May apply 3 sinew legs to her and then waterproof them with skins. If I use skins, will most likely go with copperhead ones. Not too crazy about artificial ones on a selfbow. Believe she deserves better.

Also thinking about a bow quiver. Since I carry a stand and pack already, don't want to mess with a quiver. Really like the looks of a recurve and quiver combo. Have a couple in mind.

Giving this all some thought for a day or so more. If I'm going to apply sinew, I need to do it soon. Will have to let her dry for a couple weeks before bending (or so I have been told). Would have to say it's a 75% chance I'll be splitting deer leg sinew very soon.

Huntnwruss, looks great! Nice job. Jawge

Nice job. I would not worry too much about a few pounds of draw weight. You can tweak out a few fps with FF string, reducing outer limb mass, etc. More important is how much the bow set during construction, how well it shoots, handshock, etc. Especially with the high energy storage of a recurve, if optimized, you'll be making cast like a heavier straight bow. Just the lower moisture content and temperature you'll enjoy during winter hunting season will add a pound or two to the draw weight. Tiller looks really good to me.

David, George...tks for the comments.

David, You send good news. Time will tell, most likely in the next day or so.

Had a consultation with my "The Master Bowyer" today. He's please with me the Student, however did note one of my dips was a bit steep. The Master is normally available to provide advice, it's up to me to attempt to understand what he's saying!

He did poke fun at my use of the steel strap behind the bow. LOL...laugh as you may, but there's something to this supporting the back while bending.

Working on the handle tonight and detailing any tool marks.

Have decided to apply sinew to the bow, feathering at the tips and just under the 4 inch handle grip area. My goal is to apply the sinew ASAP, hopefully tomorrow evening.

Shopping for a set of copperhead skins now. Have some in mind. Also, since these will be slightly shorter, wish to overlay the tips with some antler or something like that.

Can I use deer sheds and cut slices for the tips to glue on?

Thanks for any guidance you experienced folks can provide.

Russell

Russ, I did a practice bend today with the band on the "wrong side" It works pretty well actually in keeping the bend even. Steve

Nice thread and thanks for posting. I really enjoyed it.

Steve,

Glad to hear it worked for you.

Seems logical to me. Hard to convince one person I know...not mentioning any names but some here may know him as "Buz-Al"

Completed the handle area, filed the nocks, and rough sanded the entire bow using 60 grit paper. Washed her off using the garden hose then wiped the bow good. Used the heat-gun to dry the back good. Then cleaned the back using a small rag with plenty of acetone. Wore rubber gloves for this step.

Then I mixed a batch of hide glue made out of one package of gelatin and a bit less than 2 oz water. Heated this mixture on medium heat to about 120 degrees or so. Let the glue evenly heat, with no air bubbles. A good test is to dip your fingers in it. If it's nice and warm, then the temp is correct. If too hot, then when you dip sinew in it, the sinew will shrivel up. It needs to stay straight once dipped.

Used a stir stick I (borrowed from the local coffee shop) to paint the glue on the back area that will get sinew. The "Master" tells me you must apply sizing (in this case it's hide glue) to the area that will have get sinewed. This step will allow the wood to "drink" the glue and not too much of it during the application of the actual sinew.

Working on separating a total of three rear whitetail legs tendons. Will feather the tips to within 2 inches or so of the nocks and just inside the 4 inch section of the handle. Intend to have an even application of sinew threads applied on each limb.

Should be interesting tomorrow night applying the sinew.

That's it for now.

Russell

This is very cool of you to be both posting and adding all the photos...its gonna be a screamer!!!

Got a little careless last night while shaping the handle. One of the dips was too steep, so I was rounding the ends of the handle area to 1 1/8". Well, one section "got worked" on a bit too much. Once I realized what I did, it was too late. Ended up at 1 1/16 - 1". Darn! Haven't made that mistake in the last 8 bows or so. Got humbled by that one. Will shim this low area with some extra leather and adjust as needed to achieve the desired dimensions.

Here's my tub of tap water at normal air temp. Like to make six small groups of sinew and let them soak for a few minutes until they are re-hydrated. Mixed two packets of gelatin and 4 oz of water. This is for one limb.

Applied a coat of hide glue to the first limb. Select one strand, squeegee the water off by pulling through my finders, then dipping in the glue, then lightly removing any extra glue. Applying one strand at a time, working from just inside the handle edge (4" leather handles) and overlapping the strands by and inch or less. Did this repeatedly to the tip until all the strands were applied.

Attempted to add slightly more strands to the wood that works more than other areas, keeping the strands away from the edge.

The limb isn't actually bent as the above picture shows.

Finished for first limb. The sinew looks to be stacked in the center channel of the limb, but it's not really. A bit more in the center, tapering off to the edges.

Here's the second limb's sinew threads, basically the same amount as the other limb. I didnt count them, but that would have been a good idea. Label the bag with a thread count. Hmmm, maybe next time.

Not too much, but a nice application that should be interesting in a couple weeks.

Because the sinew will shrink for the next 30+ days, the "Master" suggested that I secure this are of bending with sinew. I elected to use fastflite string, securing the thread every 1/3 inch or so. Also making sure the sinew is laterally centered on the limb. Will remove the string in a week or so once the sinew dries well.

Feathered the sinew so the leather handle will fit better.

A close-up of the hotplate's setting. If the glue is too hot, the sinew will shrivel-up when dipped.

I leave this setting all the time.

The setting is just below Low.

Here she is. Both limbs done. Applied a good coating of glue with my fingers soon after completing. Pressing the layers down and spreading out some. Just attempting to even-out the entire application of sinew.

Tied both ends, wiped any residual glue from the belly and side. Then brought the bow inside the house and laid horizontally for the next week or two. The house has central air, so the sinew should dry evenly, and hopefully a quicker cure time.

That's it for a couple weeks.

Have two copperhead skins on order. Will relax now and wait. This will most likely be the hard part!

Later all, Russell

I'll admit to laffing out loud when I saw the pic of the banding on the back side. Reminded me that there's a little more to explaining something than just spitting out the words. I'm still not convinced that it made a (good) difference, but time and more experiences will tell.

That bow is gonna be great. I still think your scale is off, that sucker nearly gave me a hernia getting it back only halfway.

I've explained to Russ that "master bowyer" is a self-proclaimed term that is usually looked upon by others with a bit of chuckle (to put it mildly). But if he really wants to call me "Master", ...

:-)

That was an amazing thread. Please keep us posted with the bow as your work continues. I have leaned a lot and look forward to my next project. Again Thank You!

Ryan

The sinew has initially dried to a translucent color. There will be continued shrinkage for the next three weeks or so, depending on the humidity level and air movement.

Sanded the back some to smooth the high spots and feather the edges. Also applied some additional sinew to a few low areas that I missed during the first application. There were a few on both limbs. Attempted to keep the stands of equal amount to each limb.

A note about an error I made during the application of sizing (hide glue) one day prior to laying the sinew. I mixed the glue a bit thick. This should have been a thinner than normal hide glue or sizing for this matter. Was told by the Master that the bow will creak once it starts to bend for the first few times. Don't worry, it's the hide glue cracking. I guess with this sinew added, I don't have much worries of the bow breaking!

I traced the bow's layout on newspaper with time and date noted. Should have done this 12 hours after the first application of sinew. Should be interesting to see if much changes occur to the outline in two more weeks.

The bow is back in the house and resting for two more weeks or so.

My copperhead skins arrived yesterday. Looking good, but they will have to wait for about three+ more weeks. Need to sinew to finish shrinking before applying the skins and sealing the backs.

Last night I applied a few coats of brown dye made from Rit dye (mixed Red, green, and little bit black). Used denatured alcohol for liquid. Used a test piece of wood to get the desired tone of brown. Then used a small piece of cloth to apply the dye to the back of the bow and slightly on the sides.

I wanted to make a dark background for the skins to matt against. Conducted a few tests of normal colored seasoned Osage and didn't like the contrast. Really liked the dark maple color with the skins. The skins are thin and sort of transparent in areas. This darkening of the back should provide a nice contrast of the skin patterns to show.

Russ, Really admire your 'sticktoitiveness', beautiful job. Coot

Filed the string nocks to allow for uninterrupted travel of the strings while a brace through full draw. Started with the basic string nocks, stung the bow at 6" brace. Used a pencil to trace the string natural path, while helping it stay centered if needed. Filed and sanded my tips.

The bending and initial filing of the nock groves was completed a few weeks ago prior to applying the sinew. Since then, I have only shaped and sanded the tips.

No bending of the wood since the sinew was applied. Don't plan on checking the tiller and weight check until after Labor Day. That would be about three weeks of cure time. I hope this is sufficient, especially since the bow has been sitting in the air conditioned house.

Cant wait to shoot her. Clueless on what name she will get....I'm sure that will come to me when the time is right.

Other materials like the bow quiver (Great Northern Longbow quiver) and feathers to make a set of arrows are on order.

That's it for now.

Good luck to all the elk hunters. Would love to join the hunt next year.

Russell

Having shot the bow about 100 times after letting the sinew dry and cure for three+ weeks inside the a/c house. Shoots fine...I guess. Will need a second opinion from the "Master."

Applying a set of copperhead skins. Both about 28" long.

Decided to use Titebond III for the adhesive. Wanted a bit longer working time and needed to control the run-off better than using hide glue.

Prepared one limb by using a tack cloth to clean any dust off the first limb. Also soaked one skin in a bucket of warm tap water.

Applied a liberal amount of glue to the first limb.

Removed the skin and laid on a towel and dried it slightly.

Applied the first skin. Tail at the tips. Want the scales natural direction heading toward the tips. Also, works best I believe due to the shortness of copperhead skins. Sure wish these were 4" inches longer.

Worked the skin onto the bow and stretched the skin slightly to lengthen it while keeping the center markings aligned with the center of the bow.

Great pictorial, Russ. I'm on the beginning end of all of this, gathering tools and staves and whatnot.

Thanks for the build-along.

Zip'

Here's both skins after about 45 minutes later. Trimmed the excess with a new razor blade.

Not too crazy about the dark background of the skins. Looked good on a dry-run. Guess we'll see how they look once I seal them.

Congratulations! You've got an outstanding bow there, Huntnwruss. Jawge

Basically finished with the sanding of the edges, belly, etc. minor touch-up of the tip nock area most likely will be done after the back has been sealed. That will start next Sunday because I used glue to secure the snake skins. Was told the moisture from the glue went somewhere, and it most likely was partly absorbed by the sinew.

Not good to seal sinew with moisture still inside it.

Spent the last few days lightly sanding the edges of the skins and getting the bow ready for the sealing process. I really want to finish her ASAP, but the Master strongly advised me to give it another week. Darn....

Here's the bow quiver that will be used.

And arrows I'm building with tips.

With the custom armguard from Huffcustomleather made. The glove is my first one since the 70's!

awfully cool. building a great bow will certainly teach you something about patience. thanks for letting us watch.

Awesome thread! Saved this one!

So whats her name? Great job,cant whate to start my first. Ricky

This is impressive! You are so disciplined-great job and thread. Thank you!

Thanks for comments...Bjorn, Dewclaw, longbowsmith(the -64 IE), sulfur, George, etc.

Give me a couple more weeks and she will be completed, along with a name. Have one in mind...ya gona have to wait for the roll-out of the completed bow and arrows.

Lessons learned (mistakes made)

1. Keep the tips wider and one continuous ring just like the back when bending to recurve the tips. Reduces the chance of lifting splinters. Thanks DCM (I think that the person that advised this one)

2. If sinew is used, apply the hide glue as sizing a bit thinner than normal.

3. Apply sinew if used more evenly to prevent valleys.

4. If using copperhead skins dye the back of the bow a nice golden color...match the color of the snake skin. That's if you want the natural color of the copperhead skins. Same goes with other skins. Match the bow to the color of the skin.

5. Use hide glue to attach the skin to sinew.

6. Don't stretch the skin, position it via the center then press outward as you lay the skin on the limb.

That's it so far...hope no more lessons learned surface.

Russell

Getting ready to apply the first sealing coat to the skin. Using Dean Torges approach and applying a light coat of Shellac.

Used painters tape and taped all of the skin edges with a 1/8th inch or less wood exposed. This will give a nice seal from skins to wood. Will keep the tape in-place until the final spar varnish coating and spray is completed.

Don't want any runoff onto the belly because the remaining wood will be finished with paraffin .

Making sure no dust is on the surface to get sealed, I used a tack-cloth and wiped the skin in a head to tail direction. Did this a couple times to include the wood edges.

Light coat of shellac applied to both limbs.

The skin has taken on a gray color because of the dark dye I applied in preparing for the skin. NOT WHAT I WANTED!!! Maybe her name should be "Grey Ghost" or something like that. The name will come to me eventually.

Brought the bow back inside to dry completely for 3-4 days. Will place it on a window sill for the sun to bake it some. Then the final stage of sealing the skin will commence.

Finished the back using one coat of gloss spar urethane then spraying a light coat of the same (gloss spar urethane). Let dry for 24 hours and lightly sanded the entire area.

Used a dampened paper towel to remove the dust. Then a dry towel, then a tack-cloth and applied a second coat to include the spray. Spray is intended to fill-in the brush lines.

Applied four coats because the skin had a few extra void features that needed filling-in.

Then I sprayed a couple light coats of flat spar urethane to remove the gloss. Let it baste in the sun once she dried after an hour or so.

Removed the tape soon after the final spray coat. The next day I lightly sanded the edges of the skin to raw wood, being careful not to remove the seal that had been established. Wanted the sinew and snakeskin to remain sealed from the weather.

Then used a heat-gun and applied a generous amount of paraffin to the remaining raw wood.

This completes my finish of the belly and back of the bow.

Built-up the back of the handle to assist in creating a roundish dimension.

Super-glue, rough sandpaper, and patience are instrumental in achieving the desired affect.

Shimmed-up the handle area that experienced too much attention several weeks ago.

Finished with the sanding of the build-ups. They actually came out better than any of my previous handle build-ups. Used belt style leather, lots of super-glue, rough, and fine sand paper. Used tape to protect the bow from tangents.

After shooting the bow and deciding the best rest location, I applied the strike-plate and arrow rest. Solid leather and lots of super-glue was employed.

Glued the strike-plate first. Then shot the bow to determine the best rest location based on the bow's performance with regards to arrow flight, impact alignment, and most of all, hand-shock.

Sure did make a difference in 1/8 inch arrow placement. Found the sweet-spot.

Clamped the first two pieces of leather to initiate the rest. Then a new razor blade, then a black magic marker, and finally glued the rest to the strike-plate.

Stitched the handle grip.

String Keeper completed.

String Keeper with wind indicator. I like these. Normally use tan thread, but in this case employed some chateaus floss from my fly-tying kit.

love it.

Final Specs. "Southern-Comfort" 60" N-N, 63# @ 28 1/2"

Determined my draw length was 28 1/2. Contemplated on what to enter on the bow. Decided on the actual length she is made for because of being a backed bow (selfbow with sinew). Bet this bow could be pulled 30+ inches without problems...but that sure would be violating more of the basic bowyer cardinal rules than I can think of!

More pictures in a few days with the bow outfited with quiver and arrows.

Not the best handle wrap, but it will do. Came up a bit short on leather and was getting tired of working on this stick.

WOW!!! That is one GREAT bow. I love the osage and skins.

That is a great looking bow. Jawge

Awesome job, great looking bow. Thanks for the build along.

Great job,can't wait to see it all riged out. Pappy

Great looking bow. I like the gray color of the copperhead skins. It's different and will fit in with gray tree bark quite nice in the woods. Great looking bow. Ranger B

Russel, Very nice pictures and great looking bow. Great job all around! Brian

Great job, Russ. Descriptions of difficulties experienced and great pics are definitely appreciated.

I know the color isn't what you wanted, but it sure looks good anyway.

Put up some full-length unstrung and strung and drawn pics to hold the thread over until you can finish it off right with a hero-shot in a month or so.

Basically finished! Tuning the arrows for the best spine weight with field points and then broadheads.

Shortly after shooting for 30+ minutes

My newest Bestist Friend!!!

About the only thing I have planned to build a group of arrows one the correct spine / length is decided.

Group of arrows from 18 or so yards. All look good except that one arrow....hmmm

I wish to thank all that have endured this lengthy journey that I started a couple months ago. Your willingness to share thoughts, suggestions, and encouragement has made this bow the very best it could be...at least in my hands that is!

After my buddy Buz talked me into doing this build-along, I was committed to doing the best I could knowing I was on stage with a worldwide audience of my peers.

Like most bowyers, valuable lessons have learned with making this bow. Believe the hard part is remembering them all.

Looking forward to learning to shoot this bow and become "One".

Good luck to all the bow hunters out there as our magical season of harvest will soon be here!

Russell

thanks for sharing russ. I enjoyed this build along and would like to my hands on some osage. I kinda like the gray skins. I thought maybe you would be wrapping something around the skin ends near the tips (silk or sinew) but maybe that isn't needed. Good shooting too. Look forward to pics of your first kill with it.

Great job and great buildalong. You can be proud of that baby!! Steve

Looks like it'll be great for that Montana Elk hunt you're coming up for next year! Great job!

Jon

P.S. Thanks again for the Osage - I started looking it over and was reaching for my pencil when my wife and kids asked to go for a walk. One of these days I'll get it started...

ttt

AWESOME!!!!!!!

I really enjoyed this. I loved the finished look of the skins:)

Thanks guys, but my intent was to resurface this build-along for "elkshooter"s benifit. He's the one that asked for assistantce with a stave the last couple days.

"Southern-Comfort" has taken a rabbit, but no deer yet. She is scheduled to go hunting this weekend, but lots of rain forcasted.

Merry Christmas all.

Russell

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