| From: Cedarsavage
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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Anybody ever do wood lams with titebond? I'm thinking about doing an osage/bamboo build and using titebond for glue instead ea40. It seems like it'd work if it works with sinew and rawhide. I've had good luck on handles with it. Thoughts? Opinions?
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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Yep, works with any kind of wood backing and has been used by lots of folks as long as the glue joint is nearly flawless because it has -0-gap filling characteristics.
I wouldn't use it with sinew on a bet although I know folks do.
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| From: PEARL DRUMS
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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It works, but EA40 is superior in every conceivable way. Use titebond 3 only, make sure your mating surfaces are like glass, do a dry run to ensure it all works smoothly and quickly, make sure everything is ready to go when you start spreading glue. You have about 10-15 minutes before it starts setting up. No time to tinker around.
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| From: PEARL DRUMS
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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Be very mindful of your clamp/rubber band pressure. Its runny and very easily squeezed out creating dry spots which equal broken bows.
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| From: 4nolz@work
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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I use smooth-on, my one experience with all wood composite failed with wood glue-maybe or maybe not the glues fault
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| From: Jeff Durnell
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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Good advice above. I would add that if you do use Titebond, keep in mind that unlike an epoxy, a lot of it can get absorbed by dry pieces, so size both pieces with glue, let it soak in for 20 minutes or so, then apply glue again, wetting all gluing surfaces completely, then assemble. This will help keep the porous bamboo and wood from sucking the glue away from the joint.
By the way, I use Smooth On for all of my bamboo backed bows. I use hide glue for sinew and rawhide. I don't use Titebond for much bow work at all nowadays. Don't remember the last time. Not that it doesn't work per se, but I prefer the bond I get with slightly rougher surfaces and Smooth On in certain critical areas.
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| From: 4nolz@work
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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And titebond makes a hide glue
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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Tite Bond does indeed make a hide glue. But I don't believe that is what Cedarsavage was referencing.
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| From: 4nolz@work
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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No just posted for general information to Jeffs post it's a shortcut for true hideglue but easy.For others reading the posts.
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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I have not used the Tite-Bond variety. But there is a brand, and I forget what it is right now, that Woodcraft sells that is flaked hide glue that is very good as well. Simply dissolve/melt it in warm water.
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| From: Bassmaster
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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AE will take the worry out of being close. Fills gaps etc. It is all I use now. Even gluing handles on that have popped off with Tite Bond. More expensive, but well worth using it.
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| From: Jeff Durnell
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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Yes they do Mike. I think I have some of that Titebond liquid hide glue.
Here's a good article on various glues for the bowyer's uses by Dean Torges...
http://www.bowyersedge.com/glue.html
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| From: Cedarsavage
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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Thanks for the input. I got a hot box at my dad's house I'm debating on grabbing. Sounds like it'd be better to use that or build a smaller one, since my house is real small. Think I'll scrap the titebond lam idea.
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| From: Longcruise
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| Date: 15-Apr-21 |
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I would just go with the EA40. It's proven and reliable. Gives you plenty of working time.
If it's about economics, then think about the cost of failed glue ups.
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