There have been many, many post on sharpening broadheads and testing them to see "how sharp" they are such as dragging across fingernail, cutting paper, cutting rubber bands, shaving arm hair, etc. Check out "Broadhead Sharpening Shootout" by Innovative Outdoorsman on Youtube.

Let me add that this video should be required viewing for all bowhunters. Really answers a lot of questions.

VERY COOL, NEVER WOULD HAVE THOUGHT

Zuwickey hmm

Hey Dnewer, check out (in another video) how sharp he got a Grizzly broadhead!

Great video!

Interesting would have like to see a fixed V sharper, as well. Like an Accu-sharp

About two months ago I purchased the "roller guide" system from Stay Sharp for both two blade and three blade broad heads. There is a different guide for a two blade and a different guide for the three blade.

The two blade roller guide will also sharpen the razor inserts on two blade heads (four blade head). I haven't used my Stay Sharp sharpeners yet but after watching this video I'll take them along and use them while up at my shack over Easter. That will give me something to do after dark.

The 1600x magnification was revealing. Didn't know there was such a thing as a drag through thing for testing sharpness.

I imagine the ranking would have been the same but I would like to have seen the pull through results with maybe a new RADA vrs a 45 year old tool. I didn't understand that part. Relatively new file. New looking roller. 1960's kitchen utensil.

No comparison. He went through 5 grits from 240 to 2500, then polished. The other two were not even stropped. If the roller was just used on the file, the results would have been no better than the file by itself. The last 4 steps with the roller were off camera. A lot more time was spent on that head. That just compared his sharpening regimen not the best use of the tools. >>>----> Ken

2 Bears, I agree completely

The video definitely showed some bias but I think it was good for showing how easy it can be to sharpen your broadheads. I think a lot of guys are simply too lazy to use a broadhead that isn't scary sharp out of the pack. Personally I'd rather spend a little time and give it my own personal touch.

Thanks Super K great information!

Monkeyball, thanks for making it easy, SuperK thank you for suggestion, I learned a LOT!

This thread sold 1 more. I'll give it a try. Thanks.

I’m still a file guy, I can use ceramics, and I do on my knives but I still put a file edge on a Zwickey that shaves . If not broke I’m not fixing.

That was an excellent presentation! Thank you for sharing.

I tried to watch the video and it locked up my computer.

James

I remember reading some time ago that honed smooth edges create less trauma when cutting blood vessels which results in less clotting tendencies and allows blood to flow from the wound for longer periods of time. I'm sure there are members on this site who are more in the know than I am about this subject than I.

Eriebuck-thats true for smaller vessels

but either through a large vessel is a moot point

I enjoy seeing these things for what they are, and if they help a fellow get his heads sharper, that's a good thing. File and inside of the belt to strop lightly for me.

Ive done the file, rada and lansky, accusharp and others. I just ordered a kme. Something Ive never been good at. Rooty

I always recommend a lansky. Is it perfect no but it does a great job and very easy imo.

With some broadheads its hard to clear the furrel with the lansky i have. Rooty

2 bears x3. I was taught to strop after stone or file sharpening a broadhead to true up and polish the bevels to the edge. The one thing with the roller guide does the other 2 methods don't, it holds a consistent angle each with pass. The "RADA" style sharpener, if you don't hold the blade completely vertical the angles will be different on each side of the edge affecting the sharpness. Same with a filed edge. The more consistent the angle on both sides of the edge the sharper it will be. DANNY

I use a pull-thru thingy from 3Rivers, then finish with ceramic rods. My test is dry shaving arm or leg.

I use flat stone with course, medium, then glass smooth (200 year old stone from Germany G.G.G.Grandfather) than leather belt strop. Has worked well on Snuffer 160's. Plan to try on VPA and Grizzly Instinct. Accu-sharp and strop for two blade heads.

I think a hunter needs to be able to do a touch up in the woods. So maybe be proficient in a couple methods

This pretty interesting information but other than the microscopic shots showing the direction of the material removal prior to polishing of the edge I don't really see any type of revelations having been made as it pertains to sharpening.

Pretty common knowledge I thing that the finer/harder one goes grit wise the smoother the edge becomes. If you ever shaved with a straight razor you can very easily feel the difference due to how the blade actually shaves.

I guess it comes down to how smooth each person feels like the established edge needs to be for them to be comfortable with it's performance.

I used my Stay Sharp sharpener for the 1st time. I used the 3 blade sharpener. It is different from the two blade sharpeners.

The 3 blade kit came with a holder for a 3 blade broadhead (any and all), 5 different grits of sand paper, cardboard and ceramic for the finish and a guiding surface for a three blade head. The guiding surface for the 3 blade sharpener changes the finished blade to a 45 degree angle as compared to a 60 degree angle if one was sharpening on a flat surface.

I need more practice. My finished head will not cut paper.

It should be noted that none of the sharpened broadheads were stropped. Stropping will polish the edge much better no matter the sharpening method used IMHO. Osprey out

I use 400 grit sandpaper on my d a sander and a buffing wheel with jeweler's polish

KME 2 blade sharpener, Arkansas stone, and leather strop for 2 blade and Arkansas stone and leather strop for 3 blade.

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here