Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Arrows

Messages posted to thread:
frankie 27-Mar-21
Yellah Nocks 27-Mar-21
Rick 27-Mar-21
The Whittler 27-Mar-21
GF 27-Mar-21
Rick 27-Mar-21
M60gunner 27-Mar-21
Rick 27-Mar-21
Rick 27-Mar-21
Geezer 28-Mar-21
sagebrush 28-Mar-21
sagebrush 28-Mar-21
aromakr 28-Mar-21
GF 28-Mar-21
Viper 28-Mar-21
From: frankie Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 27-Mar-21




Question i just got finsihed watching the raptor archery video on choosing arrows he said 5lbs over bow weight for ff strings and 5lbs over wiight for a longbow my bow is 40@28 with my 26" draw and 125 head 27" long so i would get a arrow of 50-55 or my bow weight at 26 is 35 so do i go to a 45-50 any thoughts

From: Yellah Nocks
Date: 27-Mar-21




While that CAN work your best best is go to a shop that will let you shoot a spine here or there and see what flies best....FOR YOU.

From: Rick
Date: 27-Mar-21

Rick's embedded Photo



From: The Whittler
Date: 27-Mar-21




Good advice from YN, and if your bow is not cut to center then under spine also.

From: GF
Date: 27-Mar-21




Wood, Aluminum or Carbon?

From: Rick
Date: 27-Mar-21




I would start by cutting shaft at 30" and see how it acts, then trim down as needed just a guess I would say 40/45

From: M60gunner
Date: 27-Mar-21




Never heard of adding weight because it’s a long bow? I have heard of taking 5# of spine off because bow is not center shot.

From: Rick
Date: 27-Mar-21

Rick's embedded Photo



From: Rick
Date: 27-Mar-21




Frankie didn't like use he stared new Thread, Arrow :)

From: Geezer
Date: 28-Mar-21




Center shot, cut past center, and cut less than center are big factors when choosing spine. A bow not cut to or past center requires a lower spine. "Modern traditional" shooters will disagree that I cut my shafts to my draw length and don't shoot arrows longer than that to achieve tuning. I think overly long arrows came about with the advent of carbon shafting. While I have nothing derogatory to say about carbon, I've never used them, not even one. Cut your shafts to your draw length, maybe add 1\4 inch for restrictive clothing or an inconsistent draw/anchor or whatever, and tune from there by point weight or shelf width, or as a last resort, a different shaft size. Charts, experience and center shot or not will give you a shaft you can tune to your bow, your style, and your draw weight and length. I reckon shaft length is a personal thing for me. Too much shaft poking out in front of my bow is a distraction, likely not for most shooters. However, A SHAFT TOO LONG THAT WE CAN CUT TO TUNE IS FRIVILOUS IF YOU ARE A LITTLE BIT EXPERIENCED, AT LEAST ENOUGH TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT SPINE TO START WITH, AND THEN TO MAKE THE NEEDED ADJUSTMENTS TO MAKE YOUR DRAW LENGTH WORK. Before u get blasted, let it be known I have absolutely zero knowledge of carbon arrows.

From: sagebrush
Date: 28-Mar-21




Mine works better under spine,shoot a 40 lb bob Lee recurve.carbon 600s.wood 35 40 spine

From: sagebrush
Date: 28-Mar-21




And 700 spine carbon

From: aromakr Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member
Date: 28-Mar-21




frankie:

If you want your arrows to be 27" long with a bow weight of 35# you will probably need AMO spine shafts of 30/34#. That is assuming your bow is a typical longbow with a shelf cut 1/8" to 3/16" less than center. Add 5# if the string is non-B50.

Bob

From: GF
Date: 28-Mar-21




^^^

JMO... If you want woodies..... You can take that to the bank.

If you get good enough to prove Bob wrong through bare-shaft testing, then you’ll know better. I would have saved myself years of frustration had I just stuck with what the local shop owner had recommended to me 30 years ago.

From: Viper
Date: 28-Mar-21




frankie -

Gee, ya know it might help if you told us what bow you were talking about.

Viper out.





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