From: Draven
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Date: 14-Jan-21 |
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I am working on a Bear Tamerlane 1968 HC-300 and now I have to find a way to cover the holes in the riser. Chamfering the holes and using a type of glue + some black pencil powder mix is my option. Maybe painting black before applying a finish. Any other ideas? Thank you
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From: Jon Stewart
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Date: 14-Jan-21 |
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India Ink mixed with some epoxy maybe.
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From: Draven
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Date: 14-Jan-21 |
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Thanks
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From: JusPassin
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Date: 14-Jan-21 |
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You can buy alcohol based dry dye/stain from wood workers supply. I've used that mixed with a bit of slow cure epoxy. Works quite well.
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From: Lefty38-55
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Date: 14-Jan-21 |
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Out of the box thinking ... thin overlay faded out?????
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From: Draven
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Date: 14-Jan-21 |
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I was thinking to pop the overlay, buy some black glass and try to glue it on the back side. for the face it is tricky though
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 14-Jan-21 |
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I mix a drop of dye or ink when mixing the epoxy. Fill with match sticks or tooth picks if very deep. Let a drop of the epoxy drip on each hole after full. Then shave the excess off after drying, sand and polish. You will still often have the little tell tale circle. A thin overlay is my favorite. Sand and feather out just like the originals. >>>>-----> Ken
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From: Draven
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Date: 14-Jan-21 |
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Thank you Ken
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From: MCNSC
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Date: 14-Jan-21 |
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I’ve used the dye and epoxy for filling holes in other wood projects and it works quite well. In this case though I would think it wouldn’t be an exact match , color wise. Perhaps you could fill the holes and then spray paint the entire overlay.
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From: Nemah
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Date: 15-Jan-21 |
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West System 423 is a powdered graphite designed to be mixed with epoxy. I used a lot of it while building 4 of my wooden boats, mainly to coat the bottoms to protect the fiberglass or Dynel cloth from abrasions. Extremely tough.....jet black..perfect for your application. But since you are only filling tiny holes, too expensive. Look it up on You Tube. Richard
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From: Draven
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Date: 15-Jan-21 |
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Thank you Richard
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From: yorktown5
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Date: 15-Jan-21 |
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Me? Osage swizzle stick into the hole. On wood I break the stick off in the direction of the grain. On glass, makes no difference. Tap the stick below flush with a punch. Since India ink comes in many colors, I don't obsess over getting the perfect match mix. On black glass, I have black epoxy. Sand flush with ever more fine sandpaper, taking care to sand evenly as the epoxy is more hard than the surrounding glass. Q-tip black or the appropriate color ink over the repair area. Spritz the appropriate gloss finish over the repair. With care, you can totally camo the fix.
RR
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From: Krag
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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These are before and after of a Bear Grizzly that came to me with splintered sight holes that I refinished and donated to a St Judes auction with full disclosure of the repairs made. Filled in the damaged areas with JB Weld and touched up with black enamel before refinishing the whole bow with TruOil thinned 50/50 with paint thinner.
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From: Krag
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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From: Draven
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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It looks good! Thank you for option
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From: Keefers
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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On my Bear Temijen what I did was sand that overlay which looks like Phenolic and saved the dust , I put a white sheet of paper under it to collect that dust and just mixed with a little super glue and packed in hole . I believe I used a gel type glue so it didn’t cure quickly . Then just sanded down with some 400 grit then some 1200 to smooth it out I then used some Tru oil and lightly dapped it over the area I sanded and it is very hard to find where those holes actually were . If your holes are deep you can pack them with some other saw dust about 2/3 rods of the way then use less of the actually dust to top it off with the super glue or even epoxy if you rather use that . Not sure if you have any of those Kingsford charcoal grill coals but maybe you can bring one of them down too and make a fine dust and mix a little glue in it .
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From: Keefers
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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That is supposed to be 2/3 of the way packed with saw dust if need be . I don’t have my glasses on while typing this .Sorry for that
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From: Draven
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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Thank you for suggestion Keith. I have the charcoals.
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From: Keefers
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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I meant to say crush those into a powder possibly or sand it with what you may have to make a powder .
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From: Draven
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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I've got it
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From: Keefers
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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I just snapped these for you where I filled my Bear Temijen
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From: Keefers
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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Another
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From: Draven
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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Thank you. It looks very good
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From: Keefers
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Date: 18-Jan-21 |
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One more
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From: Draven
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Date: 15-Feb-21 |
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Keith, thank you again for your advise I've used the charcoal and epoxy and in the end the result it is decent I've ordered some thin g10 black overlay and in spring I will decide if I am letting like this or covering them before refinishing Cheers
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From: Keefers
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Date: 15-Feb-21 |
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Draven, Wow that turned out good and charcoal was just something that popped in my mind to try and looks like it worked out great . I was “Thinking” if you made a powder it would be a close enough match when the glue or epoxy was added and I must say it looks good . Nice looking bow by the way and enjoy shooting it. Keefers >’)))><
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From: Draven
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Date: 12-Jul-21 |
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Finally I had time to refinish it and go out an shoot it. I had a blast shooting it.
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From: Smokey
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Date: 12-Jul-21 |
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Draven it turned out great and looks very fine isn’t it nice to bring back a old bow to factory looks and fling a few arrows with it……..
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From: Draven
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Date: 12-Jul-21 |
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Thanks Smokey and yes, it is great to shoot a bow from that era capable to hold his own against the new ones.
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