Any suggestions on a good quality cabinet scrapers for selfbows?

Something like this.

I got mine at Woodcraft store.

I’m pretty sure Three Rivers sells them.

I bought a 3 pack of Crown made in England off Amazon, think they were $15.

I bought a set from 3 rivers a few years ago. I was just wondering if there was a really good quality one or are they all basically the same?

What brand are yours Tonto.

Cut up an old saw

I use a chop saw on a circular saw blade? cheap and they work pretty good

Hey Don what brand name r urs? Harry

This set is a Rockler. $14.99 It’s not mine. I just use an old saw blade as well. But I would like to pick up one of those goose neck scrapers.

Yes they look handy!

Have a set from Woodcraft. Although I haven’t used them for bow building I do a good deal of woodworking. They seem to be of pretty good quality and have found I use them more than I thought I would.

I got some like that from three rivers but do most of my scrapping with a planner blade.

I make my own from large bandsaw blades. I round the corners off and roll a burr around them. It worked great for concave rings and around knots. I used to make a bunch and sell them at shoots. They went fast.

Brad, are you having trouble getting yours sharp, or keeping them sharp? Was there a brand name on them when you got them? I see there's no such identifying info on 3Rivers site.

I know in general scrapers are not expensive, but since steel quality and edge/hook longevity are what is important, I would not buy them, anywhere, without knowing the brand. At least that way I can be relatively sure it's not me if I can't get it sharp or it won't stay that way.

Most of mine are Sandvik, but they were bought out by Bahco, and I have some of those too, same good quality.

I'd think that places like Rockler and Woodcraft would only sell good quality scrapers, but I'd still check where they were made.

Jeff, there are no identifying marks on mine. I haven't used them in about 4 years. I was looking over my tools and supplies and I was just wondering if one Type/brand of scraper is better than another.

Learn how to properly roll a burr. Keep them protected from hitting other tools in your box. I made some simple sheaths for mine. The edges last a long time that way.

I have branded ones and an unbranded set I bought at Lowe's for $7. Over the years the logos have worn off the branded ones, I think they were Sandvik.

I can't tell a bit of difference between the expensive ones and the Lowe's set, properly sharpened they all work the same.

I wouldn't buy any scrapers that I knew were from from China.

I bought my cheap set almost 30 years ago before China became a major player in the tool business.

I did buy a top notch English burnisher lately, definitely worth the money.

Thanks Eric. That is what I was looking for.

Hi, there is a company that sells tools for building guitars. They have wood scrapers on their site and also a video on sharpening the scrapers.

The site is. Stewmac.com

Lloyd

Thanks Lloyd. I'll check it out

home made scrapers for me. John

Old Ice skates can be fixed to a hand made wooden handle

On the side, besides archery, I also make a few longrifles here & there like Eric K does. Scrapers are it for me ... no sandpaper. It is truly amazing how much material a properly sharpened scraper can remove!

My best and most used are all home made from Clint and other friends. I like like thick, rigid scrapers and don't want a bit of flex in them. That's just one guys opinion. I've never found a use for fancy shapes either, just give me a rectangular scraper with rounded edges and Ill make a pile of curls on the floor in short order. Like broad heads, sharp scrapers are the best scrapers.

I like a round nose one for working around pins and in those hollow valley places on the back that some osage has.

I use sandpaper for those areas, Eric. I find it slower, but safer in regard to violations. Again, just one guys opinion on the matter.

Swedish push knife (bottom) makes a great scraper-like tool when held at an angle to the stave. I used to use an old meat cleaver.

Shave hooks (middle) are great for chasing rings and scraping.

My drawknife (top) which I inherited from my day is awesome.

Jawge

Very cool that you got your drawknife from your dad, George.

I have some scrapers that are basically miniature versions of those shavehooks. They're marketed to flintlock makers for inletting and carving, but work good in some concave areas and around knots on bows. The blade on the one I use most is just about 1/2" wide.

The blue steel drywall knives work as scapers. In a pinch use a utility knife blade, hook it like a scraper.

Here are those little scrapers I mentioned. So, so sharp.

Also, I don't know if you guys have seen these 'card scrapers' with various radii. I also have a set of the converse of these with various inward radius scraping edges but use them less often.

Thanks, Jeff. Dad died 1989. I don't know how long he had it. It is a good one. The shave hooks are curved and straight. Jawge

I have a large pair of dress makers scissors that I took apart and use one of the blades as a scraper, you can get a good grip on it and it will roll off the shavings.

Then when I get close I return to the cabinet scrapers.

I am a stickler for the better steel even though I have a cheap one that will roll off a continuous peel and haven't sharpened it in five years.

You are going to use it to make a bow most likely so get a good one, you won't regret it and learn how to properly set one up.

Like Eric said he just got a quality burnisher tool for just that purpose.

If your tools fight against you then you won't succeed.

Sandvik is the classic. I like the ones Lee valley sells in multiple thicknesses, and in particular the thin one. The edge lasts but there are easy to sharpen.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/scrapers/32670-super-hard-milled-scrapers

I did a tutorial once on making what I called" pin knot scrapers" for osage out of concrete nails, they work very well.

Anyway, here is a hand full, some scrapers, some small chisels and a gouge or two when I didn't have the right commercial one for the job. I use some of these for flintlock building only.

These are fun to make and very precise when working an osage pin knot.

I still have some original pictures from the long lost tutorial if anyone is interested.

That's a good idea, Eric. Concrete 'cut nails' are made of strong steel. I should have some of them around here somewhere.

Wow. Great Idea Eric. Thanks for the info. I hope this is the year I get to try the tillering gismo you gave me.

I moved about 3 years ago to a small House with no garage (yet). I'm working on making a small space in my basement now so I can get back to trying to make a bow.

I have one that has partially tillered that I'd like to finish at least. It's been staring at me for too long.

Wow! Eric, that's awesome. Jawge

I left out one part, I completely shaped and sharpened each concrete nail tool while the metal was annealed, then heated it red hot and quenched it in old motor oil.

You better do the shaping while the metal is soft because it it too hard to work after you harden it.

I don't roll a hook on these scrapers, I sharpen them on a fine diamond home and a leather strop, they scrape well and hold an edge.

Yes, the ones I have pictured above have no hook rolled either, not like a cabinet scraper. They're just honed very sharp.

They are slightly curved, cupped though, presumably to alter the cutting angle.

I don't know if it matters, but I was looking at the cut nails on ebay, and I don't think they're all the same quality steel. I suspect some, especially the old antique ones are iron, meant for wood, where the newer 'masonry cut nails' are hardened steel meant for concrete.

I used the concrete type, I bought a 1# box at Lowe's, I will never use them all.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Grip-Rite-9-Gauge-Bright-Steel-Cut- Masonry-Nails-1-lb/3059155

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