I just traded some Gold Tip 400s that I couldn't use for some Beman Centershot 600s.

My question is, these seem to be different from what is offered now. These are 32" long and 7.0 gpi. Are these fake? They have serial numbers on them.

I doubt there fake. Just looked at mine they are 7 gpi. All bought from reputable sources.

Very good arrow really.

I know they are quality arrows. I just don't see anywhere online where they are stock 32" or longer. And everything online is showing 7.1 gpi instead of 7.0.

Are these just really old?

That’s correct. I just got 2 doz from Big Jim.

The difference between 7.0 and 7.1 gpi is well within normal standards.

The ones I just bought from LAS a few weeks ago are >32”

Frank, these are marked 7.0 gpi but they are advertised as 7.1

Not worried about the actual weight, just wanting to be sure I received legit arrows and not knock offs. That’s all

Could be a number of things. Could be a difference in the composite matrix. Could be someone didn't proofread the advertisement media.

I've never really heard of counterfeit arrows.

Got it. Thanks for confirming everyone.

I just received a dozen 600's from Big Jim. 75 grain brass inserts and 150 grain heads fly like a dart out of my 40# Toelke Pika

Made in USA stamped right on them!!

Brian, what’s your draw length and arrow length?

Easton had those shafts under the Beman name. Just before dropping the Beman name, they lengthened all of their woodgrain shafts.

BigJim

So, is it my understanding that they will no longer be offered?

Once you start to like an arrow they quit making them lol

Babysaph, same thing with aluminum shafts. Get to liking a shaft and next year it was gone. Usually came out in some “high tech” camo that clashed with my clothes.

Hi Joshua, My Pika is 40 at 28", I pull 27". I cut my Beman's to 28 3/4" BOP. 5" LW Helical Shield Cut. This is what Dan recommended for this bow, and he was right on.

Thank you Brian. I guess for my Navajo Aphache drawing 42#@28" I would have to shoot a lighter point weight than 200 grains with a 29" arrow to tune well. Maybe not, guess I should start cutting these down or trade them for some Dark Timber 600's!!!

“ guess I should start cutting these down or trade them for some Dark Timber 600's!!!”

600 is 600 is 600.

Just one thing on cutting them down: Go slowly. Make those increments as small as you can stand.

But on the bright side... 30” @ 7 GPI is 210 grains; 200 gr point is 400 total.

Pretty close to where you might want to end up anyway.

@GF Funny you say that! I started cutting and got to 30" and the bareshaft at 10 yards is looking very serviceable. It is dark here, but along the vertical line it was hitting pretty close to the right. I'll compare with a fletched arrow of the same length tomorrow.

Why cut them unless you are looking for a particular length, to afford a particular sight picture ? I've never understood that.

All you have to do is build out the side plate 1\16" at a time.

Much easier to do and you can't end up with an arrow too short.

“ Why cut them unless you are looking for a particular length, to afford a particular sight picture ? ”

That IS a really interesting question… Strictly speaking, a full-length arrow gives you a longer sight radius and a shorter point-on, which should drive better accuracy for just about all of us. But I still cut mine to 27 3/4”, mostly because the full-length arrows are too long to get them out of my back quiver easily. I just can’t reach high enough to do it smoothly.

Part of the reason why I’m looking at building myself something more along the lines of a side-stalker for hunting, but my 30-year-old CQ I is still just so darn satisfactory…

I personally prefer to shoot the stiffest arrow that my bow will shoot. Less impact paradox with a shorter arrow. Also shorter arrow in my bow quiver to manage around brush etc.

Also with a 32.5” arrow I would have to drop point weight and build my shelf out quite a bit. The Navajo Apache is cut 1/8 before center and that’s still pretty close to center.

Shooting the stiffer arrow you can shoot has nothing to do with the length of the arrow in the grand scheme of things.

The impact paradox you are talking about is a product of dynamic spine. 2 arrows that have the same dynamic spine reaction will behave the same way on impact regardless of the static spine measurement.

The only thing that may have any affect would be overall length. In theory the longer arrow would have more of a lever effect. 1/8" from center isn't cut close to center. In fact that 1/8" is 2 spine groups.

If you want to shoot the stiffer arrow you can shoot you remove everything from the side plate, choose an arrow that just clears the back of the bow, then make the bow shoot it.

Not saying your method is wrong because that method is all the rage right now but I wouldn't do it for money.

I make the determination of the arrow length I want to shoot to get sight picture I want.

2 arrows of the same static spine rating but cut at differing lengths would by definition have different dynamic spine reactions. The shorter arrow would likely have less dynamic deflection when contrasted to the longer arrow.

I didn't articulate the "stiffest arrow I can shoot" phrase. I understand if I want to shoot the stiffest arrow I need to remove all sideplate materials. Compared to some longbows that are not cut to or near center 1/8" seems small to me and my eyes.

And when I build out the side it becomes more difficult for me to keep my arrow on the shelf that is remaining. I have to draw with the bow canted pretty heavily to keep the arrow on the shelf and I don't like that for my sight picture.

I also do not like to reference the arrow much for an aiming device. Maybe that is a flaw in my shooting style, but I find I am less accurate when I have my attention on the arrow sight picture.

They can't have different dynamic spine reactions if they both timed to the bow. Correct dynamic spine reaction is what determines proper tune. A 26" arrow that tunes to a 50lb. bow is behaving dynamically the same as a 32" arrow that tunes to the same bow for all practical purposes.

Having difficulty keeping the arrow on the shelf as you draw is a finger placement/string engagement issue.

As I said, I'm not criticizing the method, I just don't understand it.

I think we are considering different aspects. You are assuming, correctly, a tuned arrow. So the 32" arrow will take a lower point weight and the 26" arrow will take a heavier point weight out of said 50# bow.

I was considering same point weight and different arrow length, which would have a different dynamic spine from each other.

As for the arrow falling off the shelf, when you are shaking because of a deer coming in, I don't think finger pressure on the string would matter, lol. I do shoot 3 under, so I don't get the pinch split finger can afford. I do think this summer I am going to refocus on shooting split finger again.

Even same point weight and different arrow length will have the same dynamic spine reaction if both arrows tuned to the bow.

A 26" .700 spine arrow with 125gr. point will have the same dynamic spine reaction as a 32" .500 spine arrow with a 125gr. point. Provided both are tuned for optimal flight and point of impact.

The only difference when hitting an animal MIGHT come from the 6" longer lever of the 32" arrow.

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